EPBrophy Posted February 10, 2013 Posted February 10, 2013 Thought I'd post up a picture of what I have. Have a fair bit of 00 track and a few engines for it but its all packed away until I have more money and space. So bought an N-Gauge set and got a baseboard made by Dave. Been interested for years but really new at this so any tips would be greatly appreciated. Will post updates as I go. Quote
heirflick Posted February 10, 2013 Posted February 10, 2013 welcome EP, dont be afraid to ask questions no matter how stupid you think they are! its your layout so do it the way YOU want it! best of luck and post as you go! Quote
EPBrophy Posted February 11, 2013 Author Posted February 11, 2013 welcome EP, dont be afraid to ask questions no matter how stupid you think they are! its your layout so do it the way YOU want it! best of luck and post as you go! Cheers guys, and don't worry, there will be lots of stupid questions. Quote
kevrail Posted February 11, 2013 Posted February 11, 2013 Welcome EP. ask all the question you like as someone on this site always has the answer if not then it will be discussed and plenty of good advice given. keep the pics coming as we all love to see others layouts, ideas etc. Quote
Dave Posted February 11, 2013 Posted February 11, 2013 Welcome Eoghan, great to see your layout here Quote
EPBrophy Posted August 12, 2013 Author Posted August 12, 2013 A few updates been made and also moved to a new house so been a while updating this. Looking to get a couple of stations next. Was in Mark's in Hawkins street on Wednesday and the guy working there (don't know if he's on this) recommended gaugemasters. Any advice on that matter? Quote
Dave Posted August 13, 2013 Posted August 13, 2013 Try the Metcalf card kits, they are available in N gauge from Marks Models http://www.metcalfemodels.com/n-gauge-kits Quote
enniscorthyman Posted August 13, 2013 Posted August 13, 2013 Gaugemaster controls are good,I use the DCC prodigy. Keep up the good work. Quote
EPBrophy Posted August 16, 2013 Author Posted August 16, 2013 Thanks for the advice, will have a look when I get the chance. In the meantime I have another question. I got passed down an old train set recently with an engine made in Ireland. Can anyone tell me more about it? Quote
EPBrophy Posted September 10, 2013 Author Posted September 10, 2013 Hey, was in Graham's toymaster in Portlaoise on Wednesday and picked up some more stuff, some of which were people but getting them to stand up is proving very tricky. What is the best way to get them to stand and stay standing - glue? Or something else? Also, if anyone has any more information about the engine I posted above it would be great too. Once the n-gauge is finished its onto making some small layout for that to run on. Quote
Railway Lyons Posted September 10, 2013 Posted September 10, 2013 Hi EPBrophy, I find the best way to get the people to stand up is a bit of Bostik on the feet and gluing them down. It also allows for them to be removed a little easier than Superglue would if you decide to change. I had one of these loco myself a few years ago. If I remember correctly it was Joeuf attempt at breaking into the Irish market. It is just a European loco repainted into CIE colours. Quote
WRENNEIRE Posted September 10, 2013 Posted September 10, 2013 Eoin The loco is a Jouef HDI model Made in Shannon in the late 70's early 80's They did 3 "Irish" locos and also some coaches There were three ranges of loco produced - one type used a simplified chassis from BB 17000/25521, with single-axle drive, usually powered by a Mabuchi (Hong Kong) can -type motor, though the design of motor bogie also allowed fitting of the open-frame Jouef 3-pole motor. The bodies of these models were all unique to the HDI range and in most cases some trouble was taken to evoke the characteristics of the real locomotives. The alternative range used bogies from the DB electric locomotives 110/139/182 listed in the 1978/79 main Jouef catalogue, but again with the Mabuchi motor and single-axle drive and the bogie adapted to take the Jouef 3-pole motor. The same body (a reasonable representation of a V200) is common to all. We assume that the SNCB, NSB and DSB versions were thought to look like Nohabs. Also produced but not catalogued was a version of 8501, the SNCF Y51100 locotracteur, moulded in black with a white CIE logo embossed on the cab sides. Check out this site for pictures etc http://www.freewebs.com/jouefhdi/ Quote
EPBrophy Posted September 11, 2013 Author Posted September 11, 2013 Cheers for the help as always guys. Quote
Guest hidden-agenda Posted September 11, 2013 Posted September 11, 2013 Thanks for the advice, will have a look when I get the chance. In the meantime I have another question. I got passed down an old train set recently with an engine made in Ireland. Can anyone tell me more about it? [ATTACH=CONFIG]8596[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]8597[/ATTACH] For some reason this model always reminded me of the Bo-Bo Sulzer except for the roof which would need to be hacked. Quote
Sulzer201 Posted September 11, 2013 Posted September 11, 2013 Great stuff EP and looking forward to more pics and development of your layout. I used to have one of those engines many moons ago. Quote
EPBrophy Posted November 10, 2013 Author Posted November 10, 2013 Bought a station off gaugemasters and that I had to build. Was the first thing I have built by gluing all the bits together. Was neve the best at anything like that so needed a bit of time and patience but it's done now. Here's the before picture: And the after: I've also got a couple of animals and buildings to add to the layout. Couple of pics of what I've got right now. Quote
EPBrophy Posted June 4, 2014 Author Posted June 4, 2014 Had left the layout for a while, but was able to get back to it recently. Tried some of the Metcalf kits but found out I didn't have the patience for them so bought buildings instead. The main street is nearly done and not much left to have the layout looking fairly full and finished, one of the reasons I got the n gauge so this could be done quicker. Check out the latest. Quote
EPBrophy Posted September 25, 2014 Author Posted September 25, 2014 More recent updates: Added a garage, tram and some foilage. Will put in a couple of car parks and more bushes or trees along the edge soon and adding people to the layout. Feel it's looking a bit more active now. Need to think of what to add around the other station to finish off the bigger empty bits, suggestions welcome. Also, just housekeeping can someone move this to the layout's board and change the title to Ep's Layout? Quote
EPBrophy Posted December 27, 2014 Author Posted December 27, 2014 Just added people to the layout but really adds to it I think. Quote
Dave Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 It's coming along nicely, you should drill holes in the baseboard for the power cables would look a lot better:tumbsup: Quote
EPBrophy Posted June 4, 2015 Author Posted June 4, 2015 Bus Depot and Busses added. It was bigger than I thought so had to do some re-arranging. Looking fairly full now. Finish it off with some roads, grass, bushes and maybe another train. I say finish, but is it ever really done? Been about two years and I love looking back through the photos just to see it developing. Quote
burnthebox Posted June 4, 2015 Posted June 4, 2015 Well done EP, you sure have put a lot of thought & work into your layout to date, you'll soon be needing to get a bigger table or start thinking about where to move it to next, you said something about a house move, is the attic available, very well done so far, & yes keep the pics coming, Quote
richrua Posted June 6, 2015 Posted June 6, 2015 Great stuff. Lots of work. Youve got the bug now alright ! Quote
heirflick Posted June 6, 2015 Posted June 6, 2015 Well done to date with your layout EP - its amazing the amount you can fit in a small space! Quote
EPBrophy Posted June 6, 2015 Author Posted June 6, 2015 Well done EP, you sure have put a lot of thought & work into your layout to date, you'll soon be needing to get a bigger table or start thinking about where to move it to next, you said something about a house move, is the attic available, very well done so far, & yes keep the pics coming, No house move, just a different place to rent. Not a lot of room so the n guage suits perfectly. Thinking about an Inglebrook in O-Gauge for the next project. Quote
MikeO Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 Hi EPBrophy I have just come across this thread today. You have made a very interesting layout. It has been nice to see how it has developed. Is this your N gauge layout? If so what type of DMU are you running? MikeO Quote
EPBrophy Posted June 11, 2015 Author Posted June 11, 2015 Hi MikeO, Thanks for the comments. Just bought a started set with the central railways DMU 170. Bought most of everything else and made the station with a kit and just pieced it all together. No real plan from the start just started and made it up as I went along. Quote
MikeO Posted June 11, 2015 Posted June 11, 2015 Thanks for the info. The class 170 look very like a DART. MikeO Quote
EPBrophy Posted January 31, 2016 Author Posted January 31, 2016 Looking for some advice. I'm looking to get another train of some sort. I want to be able to keep one on the outside and one in the siding but be able to swap them out. Do I need another controller in order to do so and where is the best place to put the two of them? Quote
Broithe Posted January 31, 2016 Posted January 31, 2016 You can do it with one DC controller, by isolating sections of track, so that you can select which engine you are controlling at the time. Or, if you are DCC, then you have no problem. Quote
DiveController Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Looking for some advice. I'm looking to get another train of some sort. I want to be able to keep one on the outside and one in the siding but be able to swap them out. Do I need another controller in order to do so and where is the best place to put the two of them? Hi Eoghan, I'm going to assume you are on DC. Both trains need to be able to fit in the siding without fouling the mainline. You will need to be able to isolate the siding so that the train within will not move when the other is active on the mainline. If you have insulfrog points, switching the point for mainline running will break the current in one rail and the train in the siding will not move when the controller is turned on. You will already know this. If not you will need to isolate the siding with rail gaps and power to the siding and other sections can be turned on or off with switches as needed. You will need a minimum of two sections on the main oval separated by gaps in the rail. The first will be facing the point and must be long enough to contain the longer train. A train will stop here to reverse into the siding or enter this section from the siding to join the main oval. Power will be turned on in this section and in the siding to allow this movement. The other train will be isolated on the remainder of the oval by switching off the power in that section while this movement occurs. Since one train leaves the siding before the other can enter, both trains will run on the oval (power switched on in both sections of the oval) at the same speed (hopefully). The second train will be stopped on the facing section and reversed into the siding to clear the mainline, while the train initially in the siding remains isolated on the remainder of the oval. Edited February 1, 2016 by DiveController Quote
EPBrophy Posted February 1, 2016 Author Posted February 1, 2016 Thanks. My knowledge of all things electrical and mechanical is basic at best as is my knowledge of the technical names of modelling items (e.g. insulfrog points - had to look it up). But have to start somewhere and always interesting to learn more. It looks like I have insulfrog points so should be relatively easy. Quote
Dave Posted February 4, 2016 Posted February 4, 2016 Hi Eoghan, you can use electrofrog points too, they would be better than insulfrog as smaller locos won't stall on them. Electrofrog points are self isolating so you can use them to switch power into a siding without the need for switching and isolating sections separately. Quote
EPBrophy Posted February 4, 2016 Author Posted February 4, 2016 Thanks, will look into that too so. Quote
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