The Irish Railways 3d printing thread

[Rob R]

I am starting this thread to act as a repository for 3dp questions, answers, project updates etc. that are Irish Railway related.

Open to all, not just for me.

 

First off, with the 7 ton MGWR update elsewhere, a couple of photos of the latest FDM printed MGWR open wagon.

4mm and S scale.

A bit more work needed yet but we are not too far off.

Edited May 14 by Rob R

[Rob R]

Got bored playing with wagons

From a Recreation 21 file to be found on Cults 3d.

It's not the best but useful as a test to see what can, and cannot, be done.

[Rob R]

8 and a half hours later.

The eagle eyed amongst you wiĺl have noted that I broke the chimney and the cab steps while getting the supports off.

No great loss as they were going anyway along with the splashers - far too close together.

Ok for a first attempt, might have another go at 0.4 layer height but this was just a "quick" test because I really wanted one of the railmotor versions. Probably heading for 15 hours with the smaller layer height.

Not sure what is going on with the cab side and end either. More playing needed.

Good fun.

Edited May 14 by Rob R

[commerlad]

I'm still astounded by the fact that people try to print everything in 1. Yes I know it can but,

Don't bother with the cab roof, A cut up Coke can still works, It's thinner and no layering detail.

Think of a kit , The Cab Sides and Back and the Tank Side's would all be better if each part was printed Horizontally. (Other than Rivet detail its all 1 layer) So nothing to smooth.

Also if it's in bits it is easier to paint.

[Rob R]

I know, but that is how the file came and it is too big to stick into my usual cad program to chop it up.

Was only playing to test the limits of the machine anyway.

Would also really need to print things in PETG 'cos you can stick that with MEK.

Edited May 14 by Rob R

[Colonel]

Interesting, so great idea to start this thread. A few of us will need to learn some new terms like PETG, but that's all part of something new.

 The photos certainly show some issues, with what seems like a lot of bits to remove. All those rivets would be a pain to do in etched brass, though how you'd keep them while cleaning up the print lines is another matter - all part of the testing I guess.

 While there's very little I've seen so far (louvres excepted), that I can't do via traditional methods, that doesn't mean I'm not interested because it is how the hobby will develop, so keep it coming. Indeed, with some traditional fittings formerly done via whitemetal casting, such as axle boxes, chimneys, domes, valves and so on, this is certainly where printing can take over.

 Years ago, remember Dick Bolland, of Shedmaster Models, telling Laurie Griffin that such castings were where there was money to be made, rather than whole kits. Laurie eventually took on Dick's stuff when he started Laurie Griffin Miniatures, so there must still be some truth in the story today.

 

[Rob R]

I should be printing stuff for the SSMRS stand at Railex but I have been distracted again.

Broken window pillar was ham fisted me getting the supports of.

Never mind, it was only a quick trial print.

SLNCR Railcar B if you were wondering.....

The test print, from a Recreation 21 file, has done it's job.

Looks nothing like the real thing so I won't bother with the 18 hour print for the rest of it.

Edited May 15 by Rob R

[Colonel]

Interesting - though following Mayner's post, don't think I'll be chasing a 3D printer any time soon.

 Very much admire the pioneering work going on, but if anyone is interested in a halfway house towards small scale mass production, resin castings can be very good. Have made numerous wagons, coaches and coach seats this way. First you make a master, from plasticard -  usually a side and end of the wagon/coach. Next you make a mould of that. This takes 24 hours to cure, but after that, using 2 part casting resin, each part only takes 45 minutes to set.

 Different skills, but overall found I could create the parts for 3-6 wagons in far less time than it sounds like doing the art work, de-bugging and printing would take.

[Colonel]

 Further to this morning's post, here are some photos of the basics of resin casting.

 First the 'stuff': below is what you need to make the mould - a tin of 'goo' and the setting agent/catalyst. One part of the latter to 20 parts of the former. Mix and wait 24 hours for it to set.

 The other stuff is the resin - two parts mixed equally, which take well under an hour to set, so you can cast multiple copies in an afternoon.

 Above is the master for one side of an ex WL&WR six wheel coach which was converted to carry turf during the Emergency [aka WW2]. Made from plasticard sheet & strip, it was quite a few hours work, but worth it in terms of then being able to make multiple copies. When finished, it was mounted in a low walled box [more plasticard] to take the moulding material.

 Here's said mould, ready to take the resin and below is one cast side.

 Another side, two ends and a floor, assembled with cyan, and you have the coach body, which then had an Alphagraphix etched brass chassis attached as shown with the completed models below.

 Have done all sorts of other models, mainly wagons, for both broad and narrow gauge, as per more masters below.

 If you are not ready for 3D printing yet, would say resin casting is definitely worth a try.

[Paul 34F]

It has already dawned on me, there are two distinct paths to follow here, which represent most members of the railway modelling community.   This affects how a vehicle should be produced.  It is a reflection of the situation with white metal kits 60 odd years ago.  
 

So the two choices are, one piece complete body shells or a kit of parts to assemble.  Either can be designed to suit RTR chassis or printed chassis can be provided. 

Whilst a one piece shell is attractive for those who feel they may not be able to assemble a kit, a set of parts maybe more practical to allow for variations within a class of vehicle.  The latter would dependent on the quality of the design and the tolerances of the printer used.  As Rob has shown, not everything already available is correct.  This is a reflection on the Designer and what this person believes is correct.

As for the time required to print, it seems slow, but I appreciate, you can go off and do something else.  The newest printers have a built in camera, so you can always keep an eye on the process via a smartphone.  I have pondered whether you could print off a set of masters to make a mould, or you could just print a mould and cast items from this.

The options and possibilities seem endless.     I really need to get some equipment and give it a try.

Paul

 

 

 

[2996 Victor]

3D printed kits are quite (well, becoming increasingly) common in aviation modelling.

Given that I know nothing about the process of creating a 3D file for printing, printed kits for railway models would seem to be a good method of production. Presumably, for instance, a wagon's sides and ends printed flat would print more quickly than as a complete model?

Please excuse my ignorance!

Cheers,

Mark

Edited Monday at 06:41 by 2996 Victor

[Colonel]

Presumably if, say sides and ends were printed, as per my castings, then being more 2d than 3d, would be quicker to CAD?

[Rob R]

Printing flat with FDM printing (the hot glue gun type) doesn't always make it quicker for the whole "kit" as the volume of filament to be extruded is very much the same. It is possible to get a better quality print but as the face sat on the build plate will not have any detail it is best suited for vans and coaches.

My current fiddlings are to see if the technique can produce consistent prints of suitable quality for open wagons, I know I can with resin printing but there are potential issues with H&S side of things and the smell isn't always domestically acceptable.

It is a "hobby within a hobby" and I appreciate it is not every ones cup of tea but  it has the potential to allow more modelers to wander off the beaten rtr track and explore new projects including just about everything steam era in Ireland.

Edited Sunday at 21:22 by Rob R

[Rob R]

4 minutes ago, Colonel said:

Presumably if, say sides and ends were printed, as per my castings, then being more 2d than 3d, would be quicker to CAD?

Probably not.

A lot of the CAD is "copy and paste", it is the compromise between drawing it dead scale and reliably printable that takes the time, that and getting the prototype info in the first place.

 

Ideally  flat sides need doing in a material that can be glued with MEK or similar (PETG), easly done but just another stretch on the learning curve.

[Northroader]

Nice update, I did do some long time ago, so good to see how it’s done now. My main struggle seemed to be with keeping the mould flat and level whilst casting, then getting the cast part to have a uniform thickness after the pour.The catalyst for the rubber mix back then was also requiring a terrible level of care in its use, hope that’s improved? Certainly the results would be an easier thought process than mastering 3D printing.

[Mol_PMB]

My stumbling block is that I learnt CAD in the era of 2 dimensions and my brain just can't work out how to draw in 3D. Old dog, new tricks etc.

I can visualise how 2D components can be assembled into a 3D shape and so I consider myself competent at designing etched kits, laser-cut structures etc.

For 3 dimensions I'm happy to buy from others whose brains work better than mine. Many thanks to all of you!

I do have a good resouce of drawings, measurements and diagrams of Irish rolling stock, and happy to support others projects where I can.

[Bullet_Wanderer]

I'd be happy to throw my hat in the ring here, haven't had any experience 3D printing, but am decent at digital modelling! Give me a prototype diagram and I'd be happy to have a stab at creating a model for 3D printing, bit of trial and error! Metrovik was kind enough to do a test print of my J26 model (I'll let him share the early results here if he wants to), and for a test print it came out pretty decently! I redesigned the model a little bit to hollow out the inside for potential mounting to a ready to run chassis and motor. 

As for me I'd be happy with a static model, so I split it up into the different components here that would make that up. Reading through this thread though, I wonder would I be better off splitting the model up further, to be later assembled?

Probably a sort of flatpack version if that makes sense. Little details like coupling hooks and vacuum pipes might be better done through a different medium, but for a base engine to build off of I reckon it could be a good start?

[Paul 34F]

I can sympathise with Mol_PMB, I too was trained in the world of 2D drawing, (both hand drawing and early CAD systems) and have the ability to visualise 3D objects.  It is a steep learning curve, however, I’m following tutorials on the internet and I’m able to recreate the item in the video.  I have to rewatch the footage several times over, due to trying to keep up with the speed of the operator.  
 

Bullet_Wanderer, your recreation of a J26 is impressive.  If you were to split it down further, consider separating the cab/bunker and probably the chimney.  It would allow different versions to be created.

One question, what wall thickness have you selected?

Kind regards

Paul

 

[Mayner]

On 18/5/2026 at 7:37 AM, Colonel said:

 Further to this morning's post, here are some photos of the basics of resin casting.

 First the 'stuff': below is what you need to make the mould - a tin of 'goo' and the setting agent/catalyst. One part of the latter to 20 parts of the former. Mix and wait 24 hours for it to set.

 The other stuff is the resin - two parts mixed equally, which take well under an hour to set, so you can cast multiple copies in an afternoon.

 Above is the master for one side of an ex WL&WR six wheel coach which was converted to carry turf during the Emergency [aka WW2]. Made from plasticard sheet & strip, it was quite a few hours work, but worth it in terms of then being able to make multiple copies. When finished, it was mounted in a low walled box [more plasticard] to take the moulding material.

 Here's said mould, ready to take the resin and below is one cast side.

 Another side, two ends and a floor, assembled with cyan, and you have the coach body, which then had an Alphagraphix etched brass chassis attached as shown with the completed models below.

 Have done all sorts of other models, mainly wagons, for both broad and narrow gauge, as per more masters below.

 If you are not ready for 3D printing yet, would say resin casting is definitely worth a try.

I am not sure about the situation in the UK but its become increasingly difficult to source resin casting supplies in this part of the World, my two main suppliers ceased trading during the past 20 or so years.

Years ago I cast wagon sides and ends using similar methods based on a Model Railway Constructor article published during the 1970s (4mm LSWR layout), more recently (15) or so years ago I produced a batch of one piece narroow gauge open wagon bodies usingv a 2 part plug mould cast from a brass master, also used Shapeways prints as masters for resin castings. The wagon body (with interior planking) was intended to fold up from a single sheet of etch brass, with separate strapping and end post detail. The Shapeways print was used as a master for the resin fuel tanks used with my initial (2014?) run of CIE 4w Heating Vans, tanks on the two more recent releases of the kit were 3D printed from my original 3D CAD (3D Model)

Personally at this stage I find that it take a similar amount of time to perpare a master/scratchbuild a model using traditional methods as it does to design a model for 3D printing. One of the advantages is that I find that I can modify an existing model with quite minimal effort on the computer screen. Ending up with 3 variations to the CIE 20T Goods Brake , 2 variations to of the GSWR/GSR/CIE 10T covered wagon and potentially Great Northern, GSWR, Midland variations to the "Standard" IRCH open wagon by quite minor changes to the CAD work chages to buffer shank & w iron design.

 

[Colonel]

An internet search showed a variety of resin castings kits from about £40 upwards in the UK. They tend to include things like rubber gloves, paper cups, lolly sticks and so on for mixing. Fine for a first attempt, but cheaper just to buy the material. One thing to note is that the silica mould may only last a few months once opened. After that, it doesn't set. The two part resin lasts longer.

[Mike 84C]

I have always bought resin casting kits from Alex Tiranti in the UK. I do not do so much casting but found their silicone rubber lasts for years before use. Maybe it's because I keep the kit in a cool garage!

[Metrovik]

20 hours ago, Bullet_Wanderer said:

I'd be happy to throw my hat in the ring here, haven't had any experience 3D printing, but am decent at digital modelling! Give me a prototype diagram and I'd be happy to have a stab at creating a model for 3D printing, bit of trial and error! Metrovik was kind enough to do a test print of my J26 model (I'll let him share the early results here if he wants to), and for a test print it came out pretty decently! I redesigned the model a little bit to hollow out the inside for potential mounting to a ready to run chassis and motor. 

As for me I'd be happy with a static model, so I split it up into the different components here that would make that up. Reading through this thread though, I wonder would I be better off splitting the model up further, to be later assembled?

Probably a sort of flatpack version if that makes sense. Little details like coupling hooks and vacuum pipes might be better done through a different medium, but for a base engine to build off of I reckon it could be a good start?

I printed out the loco use my cheap creality ender 3 and despite the obvious imperfections, I believe it came out rather well. The only advice I can give is the use of tree supports rather than walls and a top z distance of 0.22mm seems to yield the best snap off results. Must emphasize the above is merely a test print, resin would no doubt have better results. How lucky I am to find W&T rolling stock files as well as the gentleman that is Bulletwanderer.

[Mayner]

Some trials and Tribbleations with resin printing.

I am currently experimenting with a (cheap) watershable for 3D printing some buildings as an alternative to my usual combination of plasticard and Wills Material sheets.

I usually use a solvent based resin and wash up with "Resinaway" a non-flamable less hazardous alternative to IPA.

Day 1. One print failure and two defective prints for no apparrent reason after approx 6 hrs print time. Last week I successfully completed test prints of plain and curved corrugated profile, though interestingly we had one failed and two successful prints of the curved profile.

Printer and curing station set up in workshop/tool shed in garden.

Day 2.  Three successful prints following some minor modification to the CAD work

Roof was printed vertically in three sections including gutter to minimise the stepped effect noticeable when printing a curved or circular oblect horizontally or a shallow angle.

Next job is to print the walls!

So far the waterwashable resin seems to be working out nicely with reasonable print quality, more easier clean up and significnatly faster curing 5min Vs 45-50 minutes solvent based resins.

One major issue was that the Spec Sheet for the waterwashable resin was only available from the manufacturers website and the print settings on the 2021 sheet appeared odd/did not make sence. While the print quality at these settings appeared reasonable, but the settings seemed to be 'messing with" the printers brain the machine thinking it was halfway through the print cycle after successfully completing a print batch

I eventually tracked down a Sep 2022 Spec Sheet with more realistic print settings, print quality continues to be reasonable and machine now appears to be behaving normally.

Some blupers.

I originally printed large tall items including this concrete grain elevator horizontally partly to fit on the print bed & keep the concrete 'lift lines' (as the shutter/concrete rose) horizontal.

I 'discovered' the distinctive concrete elevator at the terminus of a disused branch line while exploring the network of branch and secondary lines that criss-crossed the Valley Region of North Dakota while en-route to New Zealand 20 odd years ago.  

Major risk of print failure and rupturing the PF fim in the bottom of the resin tray (with resin leaking onto the LCD screen) can occur when printing items horizontally or at a shallow angle.

Occurs when the 'peeling force" of lifting the model/cured layer of resin clear of the PF film exceeds the physical limits of the film. Apparrently cured resin can become trapped between model and screen as the build plate descends punturing the film

Majority of resin suppliers recommend printing objects at an angle 15-45º to minimise the risk of punturing the film and potentially damaging the LCD screen.

Protective film to protect LCD screen from resin in the event of spillage or punture of PF film.

Also carry a stock of replacement PF film! Screens become dirty damaged as a result of cured resin sinking to bottom of vat.

Replaced PF film following photo!

Problems with too shallow a print angle/poor set up.

My attempt at a Clogher Valley Brake Van several years ago, possibly at a print ange of approx 15º print setup/supports insufficient to prevent floor and body distorting, these days I usually print stock and detail parts at a 45º using an engineering resin and experience few print failures.

I'll probably end up producing a new or updated 3D model of the CVR van as some parts especially door runners were undersized for printing, I've have had an assembled Backwoods Minatures CVR van chassis somewhere for the best part of 30 years, I best catch up while I still can!

Drystore walls corrugated iron over concrete are next on the list to print, I have a goods shed chimney to replace on my Irish narrow gauge Keadue layout after it disappeared 4-5 years ago maybe longer should be simpler to eD print than form from embossed plasticard

 

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 10:49 by Mayner
..

[Georgeconna]

curved roofs look great. Always a farm dio would need one or two.

[DonderBlitzen]

I've been resin printing miniatures for quite a while. I dabbled in fusion 360 to make a Dutch van and encountered some printing issues that stemmed from my lack of cad skills so I shelved it, resin print failures are quite demoralising to deal with, the cleanup is a pain for successful prints never mind the failed ones.

One of the big things that increased my success with resin printing was adding a chamber heater. Chitubox produce a kit that I fitted to my Elegoo Saturn 2 quite easily. Lots of newer resin printers are coming with vat/chamber heaters as standard. 

 

[murrayec]

Lightly coating the PF film with PTFE lube every time you fill the tray to print prolongs it's life and makes for easier cleaning!

Eoin

 

[DonderBlitzen]

Also I have been mixing my own blend of resins to suit my needs. I'll usually go with ABS like along with some tough resin.

Exposure tuning is also important. I use this method https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/3d-printing/the-cones-of-calibration-v3/

A UV pen torch is also handy, especially when you get a spill and want to stop it spreading everywhere. Brief flash of the torch cures the surface and keeps things contained while you get ready for clean up.

Still not found a way to extend the life of my IPA wash that I am happy with. I've been taking the dirty IPA and sitting it under a UV lamp to cure the resin then strain it. It's better to than disposing of it but not great.

[Colonel]

Methinks some of our brethren are speaking in tongues and are making my thumbs itch.

Alchemy and acronymphomania!

As ever, there is so much to learn about new and seriously clever stuff.

[Horsetan]

3 hours ago, Colonel said:

Methinks some of our brethren are speaking in tongues ...

'Tis all Greek to me 

[Turin60]

10 hours ago, Horsetan said:

'Tis all Greek to me 

Or Latin?

John Bruce.