WaYSidE

enjoyed this thread

more please. love your brass models,

your A class

Scahalane your comment on Silverfish made me think, Not that I have them in house yet, too many spiders, *o* me thinks if i added borax to the PVA, it would probably keep them from eating it.

dodgy trackwork

something i can model,, it looks very like my layout after the kids ....

Can we see the sample v the final approved, in same pic Will you raffle the sample off to us lot ? what about awarding it to best model railway layout or kit build on IRM what that? "duck down WaySide incoming"........at least this time i can say I deserved the Ire of IRM's angry mark

Noel i only address a loco or five as i test track and layout, wont be doing any of the good models so i not up there yet, but i re-address a working loco on 123 nd 124, worked fine suggestions, just reboot the Z21, with those address deleted and re-prog , or download the newer app,

might as well talk to my self this was on Noels topic, wrong place, so i moved it here there are heaps of cheap secondhand android phones with good batteries available, get two, have one plugged in n turned off for fast charge, use the other. there is lots of DCC control systems , each will suit different users requirements , my techie son tells me the technology is 20 years old, watch out for amps 3 v 5 v 8amp, it seems in many cases the boosters need to be same amps as controller, some controllers have built in booster, others dont i reckon that in a few years all new locos will be battery operated, so for newbees voltage may not be an issue. nor wiring, even household electrical items such as wall switches and lights etc have chips in them these days. they use tech similar to DCC signal . ifs its any consolation, i am stuck on track occupancy , having wired the main layout bus in power blocks , then to find for the occupancy blocks the bus - power blocks need to be broken down into many sub blocks, which are different to the usual circuit blocks for preventing turnout shorting, so this newbes advice for any uninvested newbe is do not wire the entire layout on every track, just get the power flowing to each main block and then when everything is right about the track,drive trains and see where you will need the detectors and occupancy blocks ,, then start adding track occupancy blocks, in-advance of buying them, as there is so much to consider and so much choice, in some systems its gaps on one rail for others two rails are gapped, in other sysems the detectors aint track dependent although they send dcc signals to controllers to control lights, track sections, turnout and signals and more, as my layout grew i started gapping every turnout on all rails, using 6 insulated joiners, 8 for cross overs, why, cos it a pain lifting everything again and since track 'occult-paction' is expensive you may only do a wee bit at a time, so the price of a few rail joiners dosent hurt, and you can paint the insulated joiners to hide them if they upset you, or melt them to have one one rail re-gapped by soldering the tracks at that point, surprisingly the hornby black rail joiners are very strong and work best for me. the only hornby product i recommend not that a recommendation from this newbe is worth ballast. ah Ballast, i now use washed dried play sand under all my tracks not underlay, as all my wires are above board, unlike my self', this allows the wires flexibility, Long live DCC until battery operated locos rule on un-wired tracks with blue tooth enabled infra red detectors..

there are heaps of cheap secondhand android phones with good batteries available, get two, have one plugged in n turned off for fast charge, use the other. there is lots of DCC control systems , each will suit different users requirements , my techie son tells me the technology is 20 years old, watch out for amps 3 v 5 v 8amp, it seems in many cases the boosters need to be same amps as controller, some controllers have built in booster, others dont i reckon that in a few years all new locos will be battery operated, so for newbees voltage may not be an issue. nor wiring, even household electrical items such as wall switches and lights etc have chips in them these days. they use tech similar to DCC signal . ifs its any consolation, i am stuck on track occupancy , having wired the main layout bus in power blocks , then to find for the occupancy blocks the bus - power blocks need to be broken down into many sub blocks, which are different to the usual circuit blocks for preventing turnout shorting, so this newbes advice for any uninvested newbe is do not wire the entire layout on every track, just get the power flowing to each main block and then when everything is right about the track,drive trains and see where you will need the detectors and occupancy blocks ,, then start adding track occupancy blocks, in-advance of buying them, as there is so much to consider and so much choice, in some systems its gaps on one rail for others two rails are gapped, in other sysems the detectors aint track dependent although they send dcc signals to controllers to control lights, track sections, turnout and signals and more, as my layout grew i started gapping every turnout on all rails, using 6 insulated joiners, 8 for cross overs, why, cos it a pain lifting everything again and since track 'occult-paction' is expensive you may only do a wee bit at a time, so the price of a few rail joiners dosent hurt, and you can paint the insulated joiners to hide them if they upset you, or melt them to have one one rail re-gapped by soldering the tracks at that point, surprisingly the hornby black rail joiners are very strong and work best for me. the only hornby product i recommend not that a recommendation from this newbe is worth ballast. ah Ballast, i now use washed dried play sand under all my tracks not underlay, as all my wires are above board, unlike my self', this allows the wires flexibility, Long live DCC until battery operated locos rule on un-wired tracks with blue tooth enabled infra red detectors.. sorry Noel, i copied this and moved it to my DCC thread, probably outta place here

no need, spray it then remove it, much tastier

last of the summer Whiners between ya all, ye should write a comedy, youd have thousands new train geeks, on the site , following yar every move. what a side splitting post, oulfellas standing at a deserted station, nothing to do with yourselves, watching pigeons and aliens but ye break me shxyxt laughing . its far better than ' last of the summer Whiners. love and best wishes, to ye all. thank dog..its in Laois, for only here would we understand...

The end of another Line, Google is shutting down Google+ for consumer (personal) accounts on 2 April 2019, many train photo archives will no longer be available, download those pics now On 2 April, 2019 Google+ accounts and any Google+ pages that you've created will be shut down and google will begin deleting content from consumer Google+ accounts. Photos and videos from Google+ in your album archive and on your Google+ pages will also be deleted. You can download and save your content. Just make sure that you do this before April. Please note that photos and videos backed up in Google Photos will not be deleted. https://support.google.com/plus/answer/9195133?hl=en-GB

the 23rd leaf on the right hand tree, is it outta place, love the gable end weathering me thinks 200 pigeons on a white stained roof would fit perfect then i asks me self would he dare graffiti the walls?

Hi, after my Select packed in within short time of getting it, , i spent along time , researching what next, and ended up with Z21, since I wasnt used to any other controler, i love it, esp with MM engines on slow, but i not yet doing kadee couplers, i learnt fast to have very clean screen on mobile, I also got new multimas, but since it arrived with damaged screen it took 12 months to get replaced, and still in box as i doing major works trying to get layout working, so no controlling since before December. There are at least two downloadable apps for Z21, and I use both, as we have 4 cabs, 3 phones 1 laptop, the older app has pic of red train on icon, the new app just black, its better on laptop, not so good on mobile. far less responsive on older androids also the Z21 is reported not so good as accessory driver, or at least its not a nmra compliant accessory software as it requires plus4 to cv address, so youtubers are using dr5000 with it, to bridge the problem and avoide shorts on expensive z21, as i havent laid any accessory's yet i dont know, nor its also not ideal for hornby as loco address are +4, ( hornby address cv 7 = cv11 on Z21) which sorta explained how every time we got a short, the hornby steam loco from santa, would take off at high speed, on re-addressing it , it sorta solved the issue, partially, noel, someday , with Z21 you will be able to log onto my layout and drive my trains with Z21 all from your place where ever you are, With the Z21 and a camera train in any country such as USA , i should be able to join USA club and drive a train on their layout - all the way from Ireland,

why not sell beer, by the reaction you got from everyone so far, you could sell day tickets (as already suggested/requested) to visit your layout, and charge extra for d beer, if you rent out a net to catch silver fish as well, Beer, trains and fishing, .. Cork would never be so good

Scahalane, when I got home tonight, I had a look at all 5 pages, of your layout on a better screen n faster upload, i read every comment going back since u started, like everyone else i am totally gobsmacked n amazed not only at your skills, the layout design, it's build, more so the atmosphere you have created, thank you for sharing, then I realised my photo joke may be taken in bad taste, I didn't know you had used photos, I didn't mean that at all at all at all, ,, please forgive. You started with H' Select controller, admitted you needed to fast track learn Dcc, wiring took ages, n then got side tracked running trains,,, that gives me so much hope. Thanks I love what you done, the pic with the steps tween the houses perfectly describes your attic layout, Stairway to heaven.

Have you no consideration, as to how most of the rest of us are feeling right now, All I see are old prototype photos placed under someones attic. Wheres the model layout you promised? You even went to the trouble of having jars of scenics on a shelf to make us believe its a model. garage is sublime

anything but orange, you have convinced me to seriously consider this livery. love the grime of second pic.

you could also post it to the calander and win brownie points

Hi pop's ,, mutley is my fav', snigger , i no longer use rolls of film, plates my boy plates, had to resize the photos to upload to IRM, feels like waste of time now, i was going to say with a bit of insulation it could be a dublin home!!! but i thought it better taste not to

https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/7406-good-wagon-in-field-in-birr-co-offaly/

Goods Wagon, no wheels, The wagon is on Nenagh rd just outside Birr, first field after last houses on bad bend, wagon on right as you leave town. Sorry i couldn't measure the wagon, was on private property and I on business driving past, so i hopped over the wall, took the photos quickly. looks like 50's 60's Cie goods wagon i wanna take it home! End to end joy above photo with vent, part rivited on this side upright on pressed steel angle iron, maybe its older than 1950's then its bolted on at the other end of wagon , opp' end see below and 3rd pic down, could been repaired earlier wagon didnt see any markings the frame door hinge detail, i love rust, no realy, i go to great lenghts to capture rust on all sorts of old items, see those nuts, me thinks there 1950's below is door on far side, by road with flashing, looked like alloy not lead, sorry was rushing, didnt think to check. below, as plywood was manufactured way back, no clues there, as too age ah sure what about another glorious view, smaller image than first pic, i noticed those boards on ground and theres some yellowish green paint... ye are licking the lips by now is that a Cie logo? doubt it, but as timber expanded so did paint, maybe a sellers mark, drips and all yummy. either great steel or not that old? i thought pins like this were 1930's not 1950's