SULZER 101 Build

[ger711]

I have started the build on this kit and had some questions. I spoke to Des and we spent some time on the phone going through any issues.

 

Firstly the Chassis. It is a simple fold and it goes floor flat to the bottom and sides facing up into the body.

 

I've attached the high bogie mount and also added some scrap pieces at the ends to hold the lights in place (not sure of how I'll do the lights yet).

 

Also I've attached the rockers for the high bogie to allow it to pitch. Hope I got this right. Des?

 

Speaking to Des, we both agreed that it was probably better to just sand the Class 55 bogies down flat rather than cutting the sides off.

 

White Metal Bogie sides attached.

 

Windows needed sanding to straighten and line them up. More so the front windows.

 

Front Horn Grill fitted

 

The hole for the door handle is on the left but should be to the right. I have changed this and added a brass handle. This is made from 0.45mm brass wire crushed at one end and glued in place.

 

Chassis has some weights (from Hornby Class 55) cut to size and glued in. White Metal battery boxes cut back to give more realistic profile, then the whole lot was primed.

 

Roof detail added then the floating test! Joking, just washing off any residual Resin before priming.

 

This may not be very clear but each piece of glazing was cut and shaped from the thicker plastic that came in the Hornby Class 55 box. It is held in place with Blue Tac until required.

 

I will be doing some more work over the next few days and hope to post more pictures. I am trying to design a floor and bulkhead to make fitting the Cab Control Desk easier.

One other thing to note is the LED's. They are very very delicate and I would recommend taping or gluing the wires together at the LED end so they don't snap off.

 

Any questions or comments let me know.

 

Ger.

Edited January 20, 2013 by ger711

[Kirley]

Thank you for your detailed report on progress so far.

[Weshty]

Looking good Ger!

 

 

I like your choice of the double handrail.

[scahalane]

Excellent report there Ger and looking good, can't wait to see how it progresses.

[Riversuir226]

Between yourself and Eamonn's im getting really tempted.

Excellent work so far and probably one of the best "how to's" I ve seen on any of the forums, brilliant resource for anybody building this kit in the future, maybe it might be an idea to put it as a sticky thread so it won t disappear down the pages.

Really looking forward to seeing this progress to the finish.

[Riversuir226]

Between yourself and Eamonn's im getting really tempted.

Excellent work so far and probably one of the best "how to's" I ve seen on any of the forums, brilliant resource for anybody building this kit in the future, maybe it might be an idea to put it as a sticky thread so it won t disappear down the pages.

Really looking forward to seeing this progress to the finish.

[enniscorthyman]

Great work and advice there Ger.

The weights from the deltic will need to be added

as much as possible as my a class deltic chassis

needs more weight as she does not go up inclines

very well.

Edited January 21, 2013 by enniscorthyman

[ger711]

You are right about the weight. My A Class was slipping all over the place even on the level. Glued the weights into the roof space as there was more room and then I didn't have to cut them!

[islandbridgejct]

Lovely work and great description. She's going to be a real beauty.

 

Alan

[Kirley]

Ger, started work on my Sulzer last night and used your piece as a helpful reference. I was looking at the lights and think I’ll just drill a hole the size of the LED in the Light Cluster, thread the wires and LED through and superglue it in place.

[ger711]

Hey Kirley,

 

If that works for you then it would be the easier option. Only problem I can see (well 2 actually) is that the hole may have to be larger to fit the two wires through. Secondly as I mentioned above, the connections to the tiny LED are extremely delicate and liable to snap off if moved around too much.

My reasoning for trying to mount them on the chassis was to have all the wiring within the chassis so the body can be removed hassle free. If you are going this route you could use Glue N Glaze tinted yellow to give a more prototypical light and also seal in the LED. Let me know how you get on.

I am also discovering problems with the Class 55 bogies. When I replaced them into the Chassis after priming one of them was catching the Fuel Tanks (which I wrongly described as Battery Boxes above). I had to cut the back piece off. Fuel Tanks were mounted dead centre. The other problem is that the spindle on top of the Motor Bogie is too high and even wth the rockers in place it allows the body to sit too far down in comparison to the Non Motor Bogie so it's not level. I hope to correct this with some tubing between the top of the Bogie and the high bogie mount. I will post pictures in the next day or so. Anyone else having problems??

 

Ger.

Edited January 23, 2013 by ger711

[Kirley]

Ger, I was just thinking aloud about the LED's but it worked for me on one of the lights on an A Class I had just finished. That's a good suggestion on tinting the lights yellow. I'm still at the stage of cutting out and filling down bits of the etch and cleaning up the resin body. I wonder did Des come across the problem with the fuel tanks? I was anticipiting difficulties with the working of the front bogie and I see it has give you some concerns. Looking forward to seeing your solution. I note the weights Hornby placed in their Class 55 for it to run with full traction is 10.75 oz or 303 grams and if you transfer the same weight will the brass chassis supplied support that amount? I suppose if you did not have these issues then it would all be too easy.

[ger711]

Kirley,

I only used a couple of the weights cut down to 53mm (see pic 8 on previous page). This allows them to sit between the opening for the Motor Bogie and the hole for the other one. For the problem with the fuel tanks, I just removed the back piece from the front Bogie and it works fine. For the other problem, I inserted a small piece of tubing under the high bogie mount and it balances out perfectly. I'll try and get some pics up later.

 

Ger.

[Weshty]

Ger, I was just thinking aloud about the LED's but it worked for me on one of the lights on an A Class I had just finished. That's a good suggestion on tinting the lights yellow. I'm still at the stage of cutting out and filling down bits of the etch and cleaning up the resin body. I wonder did Des come across the problem with the fuel tanks? I was anticipiting difficulties with the working of the front bogie and I see it has give you some concerns. Looking forward to seeing your solution. I note the weights Hornby placed in their Class 55 for it to run with full traction is 10.75 oz or 303 grams and if you transfer the same weight will the brass chassis supplied support that amount? I suppose if you did not have these issues then it would all be too easy.

 

Something else I should have added in the instructions. Yes, I cut off the back ends of the bogies so they didn't catch on the fuel tanks,

 

Regarding the spindlel too high, have you constructed the chassis the right way around? The chassis skirts should be pointing up into the resin body not down.

 

[ger711]

Des,

 

That is the way I constructed the Chassis. When the spindle goes through the hole in the mount there is 4mm between the top of the bogie and the spindle lugs. This allows the mount to drop down. I have placed a 3mm piece of tubing over the spindle before pushing it through the hole and with the rockers in place this worked for me. It's not a big deal. Enjoying the challenge.

 

Ger.

[ger711]

Some more pictures.

 

Cab floor/Bulkhead template. Back is 29mm and floor is 25mm.

 

Cabin detail attached to Bulkhead/Floor made from aluminium.

 

Showing where Bogie end was removed to clear Fuel Tanks

 

Note difference in gap at bogies. Also note how high the spindle protrudes.

 

Spacer made from tubing to correct problem above.

 

Last picture is something I was trying for lighting. Top piece is plastic tubing, middle piece is some rubber coated wiring and last piece is actually Fibre Optic. The LED goes into one end of the tubing, then after removing the inner wires, the rubber covering is cut and inserted into the other end of the tubing. Finally the Fibre Optic is pushed in and up against the LED inside the tube. Works OK and may make it easir for mounting. We'll see.

 

Ger.

Edited January 24, 2013 by ger711

[Weshty]

Ger,

 

Absolutely loving the cabin!!!

[ger711]

Thanks Des,

 

There is Glue N Glaze in the dial holes to represent glass although you can't see it nor won't see it when it's in the body, but why not.

I'm putting some ladders on the bogies now, then the body needs painting and finally the wiring and lighting. Will keep you posted.

 

Ger.

[Kirley]

Ger you are really coming on at great speed, problem solving all the way. The cab detail is excellent and your lighting solution looks sound. Can't wait for the next instalment.

[Glenderg]

Ger, you're a "man on a mission", keep up the determined pace, very impressive! The driver is well turned out too, he must be take pride in his work. as should you

[Barl]

You really are flying at the construction and its turning into a fantastic model

[ger711]

[Mike 84C]

ger, thanks for all the info; with the build, B110 looks excellent. The last picture with the light shining through the engine room windows and the mech; in silhouete is a master stroke.

[Kirley]

Great to see it finished and you got the lights working Ger, well done.

[Guest hidden-agenda]

Are they working lamps?

[Sulzer201]

Well done Ger she's great - all she needs now is a 24 sound chip.

[ger711]

Thanks for the comments lads, It makes all the effort worthwhile. Mike that photo was pure fluke and not set up in any manner. Thanks Kirley, great to watch several of these come together on the forum. Hidden-agenda, yes they are working lamps (Weshty has them available on his website) and lastly Sulzer201, unfortunately I haven't made the move to DCC yet. Maybe soon, looking at all the great sound chips available and in use on this site.

 

Thanks again, now on to the D Class. No rest for the wicked.

 

Ger.

[ei6jf]

I'm nearing the painting stage with my Sulzer build. I plan to go with the black scheme. In the photos the black usually has a matt appearance but I'm assuming that this is weathering/dirt? Anybody got any suggestions as to what black to use? I assume that a gloss black will look daft.

 

Mark

[patrick]

I was wondering about the black scheme on the Sulzers also. On the photos I have seen the black appears to be glossier than on the A class or GM's, at least to my eye. I would very much appreciate feedback on this before painting my model.

[Kirley]

I did mine in matt black and went for the faded weathered look, see

http://irishrailwaymodelling.com/showthread.php/78-Kirley-s-Projects/page18

[ttc0169]

I finished mine in Supertrain livery...

 

 

 

 

101

[33lima]

Very nice - in a grimy sort of way. The livery suits her well!

[Southern Yard]

Very fine modelling when you compare them with the real thing. An under rated loco in this GM dominated country.

[RedRich]

Good work lad's, Des must feel like a proud Dad.

 

Rich,

[Hunslet 102]

There are a couple of photo's of my black/tan version of B105 on my GVSt layout thread,seen in happier days than from the real life photo above.I used ordinary matt black paint,then finished it with a coat of satin varnish to seal the decals,followed by a coat of matt varnish and then a further coat of satin varnish.Sorry,don't know how to link the photo's to this thread,but they can be found on page 7 on the layout thread.