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Amiens Street Terminus

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They are small card 'inserts' that come with the Cobalt Motors.

 

After you drill the hole for the motor armature to poke through, you are left with a big, 6mm hole - not good for ballasting! You slip the card insert under the point, and you get a neat little slot for the motor arm, and can then ballast safely without dropping ballast into the motor or under the board.

 

They'll need a good whack of an airbrush too - you'd think they could have printed them with ballast (or even printed them grey :) )

 

Thanks for the explanation Stephen.

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I'm very impressed by them. I seem to have a few from a batch that are a bit dicky (they wont accept an address). But otherwise they are (relatively) tiny, very powerful, very quiet, and include frog polarity switching, and two additional switches as standard (for if I ever get around to adding signals!). Best of all, the motor incorporates a decoder, so its' literally two wires to the motor and you are done! I'd definitely recommend them.

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Today was mainly about Point Motors :facepalm:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3507[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3508[/ATTACH]

 

16 More to program and install tomorrow :)

 

This is something I have yet to do on my layout.

I have drilled the holes under most of the points that I am going to fit under the baseboards (8mm I think)

How did you fix the motor to the baseboard, screw or sticky tape.??

How did you decide on the position of the motor to the point blades, did you set the motor in the middle of the travel and the point blade in the middle as well.??

How are you going to control the motor, with switches or DCC control with modules.???

Have you removed the spring out of the point blade.??

 

Looked at the manual but nothing like on hand experience.

 

I'm going to use the Tortoise motor as I have been told that the Cobalts don't last very long so not sure if anyone else has had a problem with them.

Thanks,

Wiggy.

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The motors are Cobalt Digital from DCC concepts.

 

The motor itself it digital so it plugs directly into the bus and is programmable with an address.

It also has connectors for additional switching like signals as well as frog polarity.

 

In terms of positioning there is a template they supply that you place under the point and it lines up all the drill holes.

 

I'm using their double sided foam sticky pads to fix to the board. It's at least twice as quiet as screwing them in.

 

Using the template, you don't need to worry about centering. It works perfect first time

 

They are about half the physical size of the tortoise, don't need additional cabling or accessory decoders and have a lifetime guarantee.

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hey Anthony. I had previously got some 5mm cubes, which were way too big.

 

I got both rods and cubes in 3mm this time and, as you can see, they are a lovely neat fit between the rails, and the kadees seem to work well with them!

 

I have a larger amount coming on a VERY slow boat from china - but got a batch from this place

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140814055073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

And I'd recommend them!

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