murrayec

As thumper says it might be mechanical- it's hard to tell from short file you uploaded! maybe trying a small dab of oil on the axles or if your up to it have a look inside the bogie under plate to see if its oiled inside or notice anything else? Eoin

Tender brakes were next, 40mm long x .8mm brass wires with a 6mm .8mm id tubes where soldered into the chassis frames to make the brake hanger spigots. The dinky clips are there to hold the assembly in place while soldering. Soldered on the inside with the iron held there until the solder wicks through and forms a silver seam around the tube- one then knows the tube is soldered on. Brake assembly fitted to spigots, rods fitted and again dinky clips to hold in place while rods are soldered. Done. The hangers are not soldered to the spigots so the brakes can be removed. Next was the riveting to the loco brake hangers and guard irons. Here is a tip for this riveting press- a piece of 12/16'' fish tank tube pushed over the handle which makes the riveting process a bit more comfortable. With the rivets done its time to solder 2.5mm long x .8mm id brass tubes to the top n bottom of the hangers, jigged up with .8mm aluminium wires drilled into the hardwood base. Done, requiring a bit of clean-up and adjustment of the Tufnol brake blocks to fit. Wheel weights epoxied, brake blocks epoxied. Time to fix that loose wheel bearing, the chassis was jigged up with the coupling rods just in case it may go off-line when being soldered. Soldered on the inside and again the iron held there until the solder wicks through to the outside. M2 nuts were also soldered to the frame spacers to take the fixings for the electrical pick-up plate underneath. Next is the mounting of the motor- as originally built the motor was laid flat and stuck into the cab, with our new backhead the motor will now be mounted up at and angle to clear the backhead space. Once the angle was determined the gears were fouling the boiler so some cutting was required here- hatched in pen on the boiler. A motor cover plate was originally installed in the cab- so this was cut out at the same time. Done. A motor support plate was made up with .5mm brass sheet to hold the motor up at the angle, two holes were drilled in it to tie the motor in place with wire strap and then scored to fold the plate. Plate folded and soldered in position between the frames. Test fitting the brake parts, again 40mm long x .8mm brass wire and 4mm long x .8mm id brass tube was used for the support spigots. Done for now..... Eoin.

@David Holman Loco is looking great, as you mentioned about the chuck key- the best habit to adopt on this is- always remove the key as you remove your hand from it, never leave it in the chuck. Also just a mention on using files in a lathe (you probably know this)- ensure the file has a handle installed, most lathe users frown on the use of files, last thing one wants to do is stab themselves in the hand if the file should shoot backwards. Eoin

@Michael Nolan The DCC chip is pre-set for prototype running so slow startup speed and stopping. Have you left the loco run for a while to see if it speeds up? Gaugemaster DC controllers have a low setting on full throttle, so the top speed is slower than other DC controllers! You may need to program the speed settings on the DCC chip if you still experience the problem..... Eoin

Here is another project on the workbench at the moment, a Gauge O J15 0-6-0 model by John Hamill & Brendan Kelly. It's in the shop for upgrades- wheel weights, brake gear, new electrical pick-up system, a new backhead, a bit of paint, and some small fixes. The model stripped down, parts being cleaned up and the plan of action being worked out. The new Slaters backhead kit being assessed. After a bit of research of photos a cad drawing was prepared of the loco & tender chassis to set up the brakes, wheel weights, pcb pickup plate and loco guard irons. When the drawing was complete the parts were cnc'd out in .5mm brass sheet for most bits except for the brake shoes which were cut from Tufnol, and pick-up plate from .5mm pcb copper clad sheet. Tender brake shoes n hangers going together, brake rods all cleaned up and holes sized for fitting- the J15 had pull rods on inside and the outside of the wheels which is an interesting challenge to get this to work! The chassis have been drilled .8mm holes to take brass rods to support the brake hangers, the hangers will fit to the wire with .8mm ID brass tubes which will be removable so that the wheels can be accessed. The loco chassis made a ringing sound as I was working on it and I eventually tracked it down to one of the wheel bearings not fully soldered in- that's the one with the paint removed ready for re-soldering. And all the other bits have been cleaned up ready for assembly- hangers, rods, wheel weights, loco brake blocks, and guard irons. I have somehow misplaced two of the loco brake block which will have to be re-made!! Eoin

A recent project on the bench was this 0-4-0 LMS Bowman #300 live steam tank loco of circa 1930-50s? For more info on the Bowman range of models and a bit of history see here;- http://www.tcawestern.org/bowman.htm Anyway this loco had thrown it's steam pipe and needs a bit of attention. After a bit of research I found that the pipe supplied with the model was for another type, also at first we believed the boiler was silver soldered! Again after research and inspection it was found to be soft/lead soldered which made the job a bit easier. The boiler was removed and cleaned up around the broken pipe connection and a plan of action was drawn up- to shorten the steam pipe and house it into the brass ferrule on the boiler to give the new solder join a bit of structural support- as looking on youtube this join seems to be problem with the model. Also the olive on the steam pipe needed to be re-soldered as it was not pushed home on the pipe- I think with someone's attempt to solder at the other end of the pipe they overheated the whole thing and the olive slipped! With the olive soldered on and the pipe shortened it's now ready to solder into the boiler, to save the paint and to ensure the boiler end doesn't de-solder the whole thing is wrapped in cold wet cloths. The pipe is recessed into the fitting by 2mm. And done, the cloths did their job. Then bolted the boiler back on and gave it a test run on air at 20psi. A bit more motion in this photo. Ready to go back to its crew for the smokebox saddle to be installed and a bit of paint. Eoin

https://railsofsheffield.com/products/28011/gaugemaster-dcc29-oo-gauge-omni-direct-plug-decoder-8-pin-

@popeye I agree, everything has fitted together ( I chose to remake the gas tanks where the instructions suggest removing the brake shoes, and I have since heard that most prototype coaches had no shoes on the centre axles ), there are aid holes for lining up the parts, even jigs on the frets for bending the handrails, plus easy well laid out instructions with diagrams...... Eoin

All sides and ends of the 4 kits are now set-up ready for the roofing stage! Showing the brake third- all components removed from frets and cleaned up. These are the roof clamping down parts and the luggage compartment rooflight, the birdcage rooflight to the brake conpartment is not being used. Roof sheet being drilled for ventilators and gas lamps. After de-burring the roof sheet was rolled to curve. Curved, needing a bit of flatting out! Test fitting the roof lower bracket to prepare for tack soldering sides and ends, this was done while the sides and ends are still bolted to the chassis. Tacks done, and then the sides n ends are removed from the chassis and fully soldered up. Setting up the captive screws and the upper roof bracket with captive 10 BA nuts. Done Lower bracket soldered in with the upper bracket screwed on with paper between ready for soldering the roof sheet on. Roof sheet tack soldered from the underside and.... .....then the roof is unscrewed and the soldering of the upper bracket was completed. Roof on! 3 more to go.... Eoin

Excellent David, Great expansion to the workshop tools, a lathe is a must have item in model building in my view. ArcEuroTrade do a small set of tools- 4mm, which could be suitable for your machine;- https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Lathe-Turning-Tools/8pc-High-Speed-Steel-Turning-Tool-Sets Banggood used to sell a lot of stuff for this lathe also! Eoin

@skinner75 Thanks, I love restoration work of old machines, motorbikes and cars. I know 'My Mechanics' on youtube, I watch a lot of this stuff and generally stuff like timber frame house building, log cabins, alternative energy...... the list is endless come to think! Thanks for the other links, I was offered an old Harrison lathe of comparable size, I would love to have something of that scale but alas my place doesn't have the space, and my days of working on big stuff are done so the Myford hit all the bells when it was offered. Eoin

'Rusty Old Oilers' These are the spindle wick oilers, their not that expensive to replace but with the rust removed they are still usable- so this is how I remove rust when sand-blasting cannot be used, I'd like to preserve whatever is left of the chrome finish! Washed in de-greaser. Popped into a strong bath of hot water & citric acid and given a good brush over and occasional wire brushing to help loosen the rust. One should not use a brass brush as it will give the metal a brass tint! steel brush only. Then popped into the ultrasonic cleaner with de-greaser solution for 200sec, that solution was clear when the oiler went in. So repeated this process 3 times- nearly there! If one leaves the parts in the citric bath for to long (like hours) a dark coating forms on the metal surface and the parts will rapidly rust up again! So short periods are best, the parts still come out with the coating which can be removed with the steel wire brush immediately. This coating can be used to protect the metal surface in some situations but does not look very nice! Parts complete and wire brushed, they still look a bit rusty but this is because the acid is still in the pits and still working away- a good wash in the ultrasonic cleaner with clean water does the trick. Cleaned up and wire brushed on the bench grinder, then mounted on a stick for a coating of lacquer to stop them rusting again. Lacquer being applied and while doing this the badge print was give its first coats to the rear of the paper sheet, one can see how the lacquer has gone into the paper and revealed the print on the other side. When the other side is done the badge will be plastic! I'll leave these for 24 hours and apply the finish coats...... Eoin

According to Mr Shepherd's book on its trial runs to Cork;- October 4 1957 - 5 Bogie Carriages & 1 Heating Van = 165 Tons October 5 1957 - 5 Bogie Carriages & 1 Heating Van = 165 Tons Test runs to Sallins;- September 4 1957 - 5 bogies & 1 van 160 tons September 5 1957 - 7 bogies & 1 van 225 tons September 6 1957 - 8 bogies & 1 van 255 tons September 27 1957 - Five Bulleid design carriages As far as I can remember in reading the book it never went into service, testing never finished, Bulleid left Inchicore with it going into storage?? Eoin

Painting started over the weekend. I'm using Johnston's MDS metal paints on this project, it's a one coat system that can be applied to bare n rusty metal applied by brush or roller, I used a roller but the paint didn't flatten out, I reckon it needs a second coat with a bit of rubbing down first! Black bits were sprayed jet black. Setting up a badge for the pulley casing. Printed off 3 copies of the badge on photo quality paper, just in case of cutting errors! This print will now be laced with varnish back n front which turns the paper into plastic- almost! Eoin

First works of 2021..... The casings and other parts were masked up for the sandblasting, this casing had the screw cutting gear chart riveted to the inside so it was covered up. Other parts with bearing surfaces were covered up with electrical tape- it last better in the blasting than masking tape and I don't plan to blast the inside of this casing- the outside will do. Blasted. The black paint was pretty tough on these parts so I cut it short when the paint was smoothed out and when these parts are re-painted one will never notice. First saw cuts on shortening the existing riser blocks. A second cut was done 40mm in from each end and not all the way through to create bolting down brackets. And then the remainder was cut with an angle grinder to form bolting down brackets to the bench, the idea is sketched out roughly on the right. The off-cuts were trimmed to size to close the box section and will be welded on. I had noticed when removing the lathe that one of the risers was at a slight angle! The one on the right has it's lower lathe mounting stud hole a good 6mm off centre, so when welding I will fill that one, re-drill and tap it on centre. And on Christmas eve the postman arrived with the inverter!! Happy New Year everyone. Eoin

It's a horse carriage lamp;- https://www.ponyandcarriage.co.uk/horse-carriage-lamps-carriage-parts-tyre-shop.htm Eoin

Dinky

'Momentum Button' It's a case of reading the manuals! Here is a link to the problem that Noel referenced to in a previous IRM thread;- https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/89097-beware-nce-and-esu-momentum-idiosyncrasies/ Eoin

Drop-lights going in after cleaning up the solder on the door hinge parts, the drop-lights go snug up against these so need to check the fit! A .4mm brass pin is used through the door handle hole to hold in place while tack soldering the top with 180deg solder, then after checking the line up the pin is pulled out and the part is soldered up. Done, with a little bit of clean up required. After the cleaning the next step is to test assemble the sides and ends to see how it all fits and make adjustments as required. Then it's set-up on the chassis to prepare to tack solder the sides, ends, and the bolting plates. This will ensure the body will fit the chassis when finally soldered up! The other 3 kits are following along with the same process being done. Happy Christmas to all. Eoin.

Thanks all for the likes, I wondered if their would be an interest in a thread like this on here........ The riser blocks for the lathe are a bit of a home spun thing! Myford and others do make the original cast iron type but are not available at the moment. So I'm going to modify these so that they will be shorter and fit into the coolant tray I'm going to make for the machine, I need to chop off a small bit at the front and a good chunk at the back. The wood for the 'Lathe Shed' arrived last week, I now have it under wraps to dry out a bit over the Christmas weekend. Also stacked to allow the air circulate. The 1hp 3 phase motor arrived but the inverter is delayed until the new year. A mounting frame will have to be bashed up for the motor as it's mounting holes do not line up on the lathe motor plate, so loads of other stuff to do while waiting for the inverter. The next photos are the sequence of restoring the lathe casing knobs and screws which were originally 'metal blackened'. First the loose rust was removed with wire brush, then chucked into a bath of citric acid for a day. This is how they came out, a bit pitted but sure they'll be grand. Then blackened with heat and oil- sprayed oil on them, heated them up with the blowtorch until almost red, then kept spraying oil on as they cooled down. Smothered in motor oil and popped in a bag to wait for the casing painting to be completed. Eoin

Very nice Ken.

No booking required, do use a mask, we don't expect large numbers but if there is over say 20 people in the room please wait outside until someone exits. The traders will direct the situation if needs be.... Look forward to seeing you there Eoin

I'm going to show the restoration of this lathe here. It's not a train but it will help to make trains!....... I was offered this lathe at a extremely reasonable price as it was damaged in a workshop fire, fortunately the shed did not burn down completely as the timbers where the fire started charred and protected the remainder. The main damage to the lathe was from smoke and fire acid from plastics and other items that burned! The fire happened a few years ago and the owner was so disappointed with all the destruction he locked the door and rarely went back in. Poor chap, the last thing anyone wants to happen to their workshop! I jumped at it when he offered it to me, I have always had an interest in owning a ML7 or Super7 but they now come at a high price for a good one, especially the Super7. I had bought a mini lathe as that option was far more economical at the time, but now knowing the limits of the mini lathe something bigger was always in the back of the mind. Myford still make parts for these lathes, there is a huge amount of accessories and tooling available for them on engineering sites, Ebay, Banggood, and more. Photos taken when first seen a few months ago..... At that inspection I doused the whole machine with diesel and brushed it in and left it sit for a couple of days. When I returned and gave it a wipe down, then I could get a good look at the damage and decide on doing the deal..... I did! Next step was to move it to my place which entailed lightening the load. The motor, top slide, cross slide, tailstock and a few other items were removed and the machine was then ready for lifting. Looking a bit better now. All the bits were cleaned again with diesel, wire brush, a lot of elbow grease, and then left to soak in citric acid for a few hours. Most parts cleaned up well, but the chrome finished parts had lost their shine and the more one treated them the more shine was lost- so I cut my loses and left the cleaning at a point that with use the parts will shine- I hope. Casings will need a sandblast and a bit of paint. The photos below show the progress on cleaning the bed, it's about 50% done. Items can now be moved without rust tearing the bearing surfaces and to my amazement it's all in fairly good condition. And the first bits with new paint going on. Lower left is the Dixon tool post after cleaning up- slightly pitted from the rust but does work fine! Handles painted. I'm going to upgrade the motor to a 1HP 3 phase motor, controlled by an inverter which will give variable speed control. The original motor is single phase and speed control was by stopping the lathe and changing the drive belt to a different speed pulley- not great, it is doable but the upgrade is a far better option for speed control and it's a far better motor......... Eoin

Most cranes were built in England, Turners in Dublin and the loco foundry in Drogheda may have built a few. The best preserved cranes today are on the waterways! and here is a link that has a few photos and some manufacturer's names in England and the North;- https://irishwaterwayshistory.com/about/irish-waterways-furniture/the-machine-demands-a-sacrifice/ I would suggest removing the growth on your find to see if the castings have any markings as to whom may have cast them- doubt it though! manufacturers usually affixed a makers plate on the completed work! The photo of the station above indicates to me that the crane was installed in a poor location- only affording access to one or two wagons in a train, it would have been far more useful located at the other end of the shed which would allow access to a plethora of wagons! Maybe they only needed access to one wagon or the designer thought so? Eoin

It's the pivot for a loading crane as JHB says;- https://www.alamy.com/railway-crane-for-goods-oakworth-station-kwvr-image331291350.html?pv=1&stamp=2&imageid=C5433348-B77F-45BE-A690-711B1BF1C036&p=1124238&n=0&orientation=0&pn=1&searchtype=0&IsFromSearch=1&srch=foo%3dbar%26st%3d0%26pn%3d1%26ps%3d100%26sortby%3d2%26resultview%3dsortbyPopular%26npgs%3d0%26qt%3dgoods%20trains%26qt_raw%3dgoods%20trains%26lic%3d3%26mr%3d0%26pr%3d0%26ot%3d0%26creative%3d%26ag%3d0%26hc%3d0%26pc%3d%26blackwhite%3d%26cutout%3d%26tbar%3d1%26et%3d0x000000000000000000000%26vp%3d0%26loc%3d0%26imgt%3d0%26dtfr%3d%26dtto%3d%26size%3d0xFF%26archive%3d1%26groupid%3d%26pseudoid%3d%26a%3d%26cdid%3d%26cdsrt%3d%26name%3d%26qn%3d%26apalib%3d%26apalic%3d%26lightbox%3d%26gname%3d%26gtype%3d%26xstx%3d0%26simid%3d%26saveQry%3d%26editorial%3d1%26nu%3d%26t%3d%26edoptin%3d%26customgeoip%3d%26cap%3d1%26cbstore%3d1%26vd%3d0%26lb%3d%26fi%3d2%26edrf%3d%26ispremium%3d1%26flip%3d0%26pl%3d