murrayec

Very nice Ken.

No booking required, do use a mask, we don't expect large numbers but if there is over say 20 people in the room please wait outside until someone exits. The traders will direct the situation if needs be.... Look forward to seeing you there Eoin

I'm going to show the restoration of this lathe here. It's not a train but it will help to make trains!....... I was offered this lathe at a extremely reasonable price as it was damaged in a workshop fire, fortunately the shed did not burn down completely as the timbers where the fire started charred and protected the remainder. The main damage to the lathe was from smoke and fire acid from plastics and other items that burned! The fire happened a few years ago and the owner was so disappointed with all the destruction he locked the door and rarely went back in. Poor chap, the last thing anyone wants to happen to their workshop! I jumped at it when he offered it to me, I have always had an interest in owning a ML7 or Super7 but they now come at a high price for a good one, especially the Super7. I had bought a mini lathe as that option was far more economical at the time, but now knowing the limits of the mini lathe something bigger was always in the back of the mind. Myford still make parts for these lathes, there is a huge amount of accessories and tooling available for them on engineering sites, Ebay, Banggood, and more. Photos taken when first seen a few months ago..... At that inspection I doused the whole machine with diesel and brushed it in and left it sit for a couple of days. When I returned and gave it a wipe down, then I could get a good look at the damage and decide on doing the deal..... I did! Next step was to move it to my place which entailed lightening the load. The motor, top slide, cross slide, tailstock and a few other items were removed and the machine was then ready for lifting. Looking a bit better now. All the bits were cleaned again with diesel, wire brush, a lot of elbow grease, and then left to soak in citric acid for a few hours. Most parts cleaned up well, but the chrome finished parts had lost their shine and the more one treated them the more shine was lost- so I cut my loses and left the cleaning at a point that with use the parts will shine- I hope. Casings will need a sandblast and a bit of paint. The photos below show the progress on cleaning the bed, it's about 50% done. Items can now be moved without rust tearing the bearing surfaces and to my amazement it's all in fairly good condition. And the first bits with new paint going on. Lower left is the Dixon tool post after cleaning up- slightly pitted from the rust but does work fine! Handles painted. I'm going to upgrade the motor to a 1HP 3 phase motor, controlled by an inverter which will give variable speed control. The original motor is single phase and speed control was by stopping the lathe and changing the drive belt to a different speed pulley- not great, it is doable but the upgrade is a far better option for speed control and it's a far better motor......... Eoin

Most cranes were built in England, Turners in Dublin and the loco foundry in Drogheda may have built a few. The best preserved cranes today are on the waterways! and here is a link that has a few photos and some manufacturer's names in England and the North;- https://irishwaterwayshistory.com/about/irish-waterways-furniture/the-machine-demands-a-sacrifice/ I would suggest removing the growth on your find to see if the castings have any markings as to whom may have cast them- doubt it though! manufacturers usually affixed a makers plate on the completed work! The photo of the station above indicates to me that the crane was installed in a poor location- only affording access to one or two wagons in a train, it would have been far more useful located at the other end of the shed which would allow access to a plethora of wagons! Maybe they only needed access to one wagon or the designer thought so? Eoin

It's the pivot for a loading crane as JHB says;- https://www.alamy.com/railway-crane-for-goods-oakworth-station-kwvr-image331291350.html?pv=1&stamp=2&imageid=C5433348-B77F-45BE-A690-711B1BF1C036&p=1124238&n=0&orientation=0&pn=1&searchtype=0&IsFromSearch=1&srch=foo%3dbar%26st%3d0%26pn%3d1%26ps%3d100%26sortby%3d2%26resultview%3dsortbyPopular%26npgs%3d0%26qt%3dgoods%20trains%26qt_raw%3dgoods%20trains%26lic%3d3%26mr%3d0%26pr%3d0%26ot%3d0%26creative%3d%26ag%3d0%26hc%3d0%26pc%3d%26blackwhite%3d%26cutout%3d%26tbar%3d1%26et%3d0x000000000000000000000%26vp%3d0%26loc%3d0%26imgt%3d0%26dtfr%3d%26dtto%3d%26size%3d0xFF%26archive%3d1%26groupid%3d%26pseudoid%3d%26a%3d%26cdid%3d%26cdsrt%3d%26name%3d%26qn%3d%26apalib%3d%26apalic%3d%26lightbox%3d%26gname%3d%26gtype%3d%26xstx%3d0%26simid%3d%26saveQry%3d%26editorial%3d1%26nu%3d%26t%3d%26edoptin%3d%26customgeoip%3d%26cap%3d1%26cbstore%3d1%26vd%3d0%26lb%3d%26fi%3d2%26edrf%3d%26ispremium%3d1%26flip%3d0%26pl%3d

The 6 wheelers are progressing;- Just showing the body build of the Brake 3rd as it's the more complex build the others are the same without the duckets! After cleaning up the cusp edges on all the body parts I bent the tumble home on the sides with 8mm, 10mm rods and the mouse mat. It's not much of a tumble so a push in with the 8mm bar and then rolled with the 10mm bar to flatten slightly until it fitted the ends. Then bent up the top n bottom tabs to 90 deg. Folded up the base taps on the ends, soldered in the footsteps on and the captive nuts on the fixing plates- held in with sticks while soldering. These plates will be soldered on top of the end's tabs but I going to wait until I bolt the lot together before doing that. Setting up the parts for the duckets, the front panel has a reverse curve at the bottom, all bent with the 8mm bar while test fitting it to the sides. Door hinge pieces being soldered in. Hinges on. Ducket sides were first lightly tack soldered at the top tab, then adjusted until the front panel fitted flush with them and then they were fully soldered on the inside. Then the front panel was soldered on from the inside while holding it with a piece of wood in the fingers. A thin soldering bit can just about get in there between the coach sides and the ducket front panel! Panel on with the solder wicking through to the outside, requiring a little clean up later. The base of the panel is also soldered from the inside. The ducket roof was then soldered at it's tabs from the inside, then adjusted to fit the panel on the outside, and then soldered to the panel internally with the little soldering tip. Duckets done. Next up are the drop-lights in the doors and ventilators....... Eoin

Another option in enamel is Humbrol 27 'Matt Sea Grey'

After a good clean down with Gunk and pressure washer things are looking good! There was a good bit of grease on most of the working parts under the dust which preserved most. With a squirt of WD40 and hefty persuasion I got the chuck to turn! The bevel gears are in great condition. There is a ratchet system on the quill which controls the drop of the chuck and an eccentric lobe on the handwheel bevel gear to allow the chuck to be wound back up- one has to slip the lobe follower onto the lobe for this to operate, it's that toothed gear under the top handwheel with the ratchet finger adjacent. The spring to hold the ratchet on the gear is missing and someone installed a bit of grey plastic in its place. All dismantled and ready for a bath! Eoin

I acquired this Union Drilling Machine for a restoration project and ultimately use it when restored. It's rated at 1PP (Person Power). I used one of these in my silversmith days back in the 70's, it was driven by a belt off the workshop line shaft but one had to turn the handle at the top to drop the drill bit into the work. It's going into a bath of diesel for a few weeks to free the rust up and then restoration. Eoin

Money box in the shape of the castle, amazing detail including plants and surrounds. Available exclusively from Blarney Castle. h 10cms, w 7cms, d 7cms. https://store.blarneycastle.ie/products/blarney-castle-money-box

@jhb171achill Anthony MacDonald (RIP) of the IRRS had related to me some time back the story of the Gray livery 121, unfortunately this cannot be confirmed now, but Anthony was an encyclopaedia of info on the 121 (consulting with Mr Murphy on the development of the 121 model);- '' The manufactures painted the loco in their choice of livery as CIE were hesitant to confirm the livery required! The manufactures made the decision on grey & yellow to stay on program'' Eoin

It's a single action gun, dual action gun would be better so that one can control the paint flow with the trigger finger! //bartsharpairbrush.co.uk would do a far better starter kit with a dual action gun- for example this compressor & gun kit is £64.00 https://bartsharpairbrush.co.uk/product/bartsharp-airbrush-compressor-kit-tc802/?doing_wp_cron=1605302653.0207669734954833984375 Eoin

@brassnut Is that not dirt in the frog? I would try and clean it up with track cleaner and a toothbrush, also take a look at your wheels on stock and locos to see if they need a clean... Eoin

Try this link

This image tells a great tail....

@Westcorkrailway If this is the first chassis your going to do I recommend a good read of Ian Rice's 'Locomotive Kit Chassis Construction in 4mm' ISBN 1874103100 Wild Swan Publishing. Every modeller should have this book and some his other works on their reference shelf. Eoin

What a crazy image!

If your using Hornby points this link may be helpful;- Peco points are better, the air gap in the frog is smaller and the check rail is in a slightly better position, but small wheels can still be a problem! Eoin

@burnthebox Yes, the axles are generally 26mm point to point, but there are axles out there that are a different length! 26mm is the standard for OO Gauge. Eoin

@burnthebox Their all the same, they have to be to fit OO track! The wheel flanges are all generally made to the same NEM spec- as in thickness. The wheels are set with a 'Back to Back' setting of approx 14.7mm, there are exceptions when working with old wheels that don't comply with the NEM specifications. Hornby used to make pretty thick flanges on their old wheels but they don't do that anymore. Eoin

@David Holman But do look at CAD for the future, I use Autocad & TurboCad for 2D drawings in the model building. Here is a link to a few videos introducing the beginner to Autocad;- Eoin

@David Holman The Proxxon scroll saws are only for wood or plastic, it's very dangerous to try and cut thin metal on a reciprocating blade machine due to the up lift of the blade- any snag in the work will rip it out of ones fingers and god knows what else it will rip! The band saw blade only goes in one direction- down, against the table. The right tool to do this work. Hanger do a scroll saw for cutting metal but is rather expensive at around £800.00 and it's a scary thing to use! Eoin

Stunning model David, That's the first time I've seen it moving! Eoin