DiveController

Hehe, slow and steady………….. waiting to see something going up that slope though:dig:

Welcome to the forum, Randall. If you can manage to digitize any of your dad's photos, these would be a great resource for modelers of late steam/early diesel which is an era somewhat less recorded prior to the explosion of AV recording devices.

Wow! That's a nice thing. Wasn't really aware of any many other steam kits from Des, certainly not this one. What chassis is under there? Also supplied by SSM? Some recent discussion on here about the length of time it takes a brass kit steamer to bed in, maybe 100 hours. Is there much mileage on the clock or it was sequestered in the attic before that occurred?

What does the locomotive have to accrue, depends on what has been refurbished/replaced? Presume this has to be done light engine or goods (if they existed) are allowed?

Milage accumulation? Mandatory number of test miles before passenger services after a major refit??

or Egyptian, maybe?

I notice you improved the look by filming 'at dusk' Good chance to get some skill improvement before the kit comes. Chassis will then find its real purpose. Post a lit photo if you get a chance. Located a Frateschi G12 for mine this week so will report back on that chassis

Keep the photos coming on these projects. Great inspiration for the rest of us. Which LEDs and resistors are you using and how is it to be powered, Eamonn? Photo of 'the works' would be great

Any more interest in this, or just myself and Kirley?

Can/does anyone post on the calendar? First time I ever visited I expected to see dates for shows, meets, releases etc. Nada

Probably Coventry after that then

It depends on how you look at it. If you agree to purchase an item you enter into a 'binding contract' to purchase the item. If you don't complete the purchase your can be reported to eBay and be suspended. If you are a seller and refuse to send the item sold in the 'binding contract' for any reason (real or otherwise), you cannot be compelled to send the item by eBay. Technically, eBay can register a negative mark against the seller but as a buyer, I have never seen this displayed in a seller's ratings. If you do not receive an item or one that if defective, you need to negotiate with the seller before you have any right of complaint to eBay. They will step in once a complaint can finally be filed and will usually get your money back for a lost item. For damaged or not as described items the seller may insist on the return of the item and (usually) may not agree to reimburse return shipping costs even though the seller is responsible fro the safe delivery of the item under eBay rules. Not so bad for local purchases but for international or heavier items this can prove expensive if the seller does not package it well to begin with. You can complain to eBay as mentioned if you have an adverse experience with a seller. They will 'investigate' it and NOT inform you of the decision. You have the option to leave negative feedback for a seller if you have had a poor experience. If you have complained to eBay and they have 'resolved' the issue by reimbursing you etc they will remove any negative feedback you have left for that seller, so others may experience the same thing again from that seller. I purchased something from a UK seller recently, and in discussion with him about delivery of my item we chatted and he was surprised to have experienced exactly that because the other party had 100% positive feedback rating. Any party can whine to eBay that it has received 'unfair' negative feedback and have it removed, recreating the 100% positive feedback rating. eBay is a US based company and there is a societal preoccupation with superlatives where nothing but a 100% rating will be adequate. eBay has a very vested interest in having sellers with excellent seller ratings - SALES, since it take a nice percentage in sales fees (plus shipping fees) Finally you have the option to take up the issue with PayPal. It used to be that they would not deal with any eBay issue for obvious reasons as an eBay company but they are now separate so I'm uncertain about the new arrangement (eBay used to have the transaction fee from that too) There are many very legitimate sellers on eBay and I have had some excellent experiences with them when things go well, and when things go wrong. As a frequent eBay user I have learned that a flexible and pragmatic approach is often required but there is a small(er) proportion of jerks on there so you take a risk when purchasing an item, which is frequently not a bargain. I use eBay when I cannot acquire an item somewhere else but for those of you who have the option to walk into your local model shop, or buy online from a model shop (almost all are helpful and reputable) that is likely to be much less at risk when an issue arises, and helpful advice available for things purchased and many besides. There are also other reputable vendors who have a love of modeling and railways that trade in these items. This might be better on the eBay thread is Mod wants to move

Nice one, Jim, best yet!:ROFL:

Were you still thinking along these lines? You might squeeze in a platform at the front for longer stock with shorter stock/trains on the inner passing loop if you move the loco yard siding a shade to the left. However, these curves are basically too tight for MkIII stock and 201s and will look odd as the rolling stock overhang the curves severely. You'd do better with stock no longer than a MK2, with 071 or preferably 141 (or 121 class for release end of this year) or smaller steam

This is fairly typical for Rails

That's what I'm talking about!

Just got my copy of this tonight almost fours years after it was published with a couple of other things I ordered recently from the Book Depository. This is a beautiful book on the western rail corridor spanning a considerable period from 1950s-60s with some superb photographs of late steam and diesels up to present day. Photos in B&W but predominantly color depicting the railway and immediate environment, occasional shots of countryside, old cars buses. Very nostalgic and atmospheric and well worth it at an affordable price. For anyone interested in modeling this region, the diesel era in Ireland or if you're young enough not to remember this time, this would be a very enjoyable read.

For those interested in variations on the 'ballast' wagons, 26620, 26622, 26624, 26633 mixed through the rakes in Dave's photos were dolomite wagons. All the 241xx were ballasts from the outset

Cracking layout Mr E, sir! Nice shots Wanderer! These and some at the 150 event with the Viking JB and a couple of the lads misbehaving in the background :ROFL:

Hi Eoghan, I'm going to assume you are on DC. Both trains need to be able to fit in the siding without fouling the mainline. You will need to be able to isolate the siding so that the train within will not move when the other is active on the mainline. If you have insulfrog points, switching the point for mainline running will break the current in one rail and the train in the siding will not move when the controller is turned on. You will already know this. If not you will need to isolate the siding with rail gaps and power to the siding and other sections can be turned on or off with switches as needed. You will need a minimum of two sections on the main oval separated by gaps in the rail. The first will be facing the point and must be long enough to contain the longer train. A train will stop here to reverse into the siding or enter this section from the siding to join the main oval. Power will be turned on in this section and in the siding to allow this movement. The other train will be isolated on the remainder of the oval by switching off the power in that section while this movement occurs. Since one train leaves the siding before the other can enter, both trains will run on the oval (power switched on in both sections of the oval) at the same speed (hopefully). The second train will be stopped on the facing section and reversed into the siding to clear the mainline, while the train initially in the siding remains isolated on the remainder of the oval.

I read somewhere that fitted wagons were bauxite and unfitted were grey. Was this by intent, incorrect, or the livery change happened to coincide with the introduction of a greater number of fitted wagons?

Ooworks states that the loco will weigh approx 250g when finished . This seems light to me, got to go and weight a woollie or something for comparison. The bed-plate / cab are made from cast metal. The boiler is injection resin, and chassis is brass. Apparently, the boiler section comes off with a pair of screws to allow easy fitting of a DCC chip.

If it's strange looking steamers you're after, don't forget the modified GS&WR prelude to the CC1

If they did, I would certainly get a U. Will wait and see. Fingers crossed! Not my forte

It's likely they received some polite constructive suggestions and made modifications. The UG class looks nice. No change to the U class from what I can see though, maybe a little on the loco under the boiler. I'd prefer the U in that livery. I can't magnify properly this for some reason. Hmm, can't download it either