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Kirley

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  • 2 weeks later...

Currently working on a Supertrain rake to go with my A Class and 071 when ever it arrives.

 

First time using Hornby Mk 3’s, on the previous rake I used Lima and you didn’t have the problem in having to masking all the windows.

 

Mk3Rake.jpg

 

I’m also using Weshty’s EGV kit for the first time. Nice to have the roof detail rather than making your own and little things like the sunken steps below the middle doors and the fuel filler caps. Des supplies thick wire for the door stoppers but I found difficulty in cutting them. The majority disappeared across the room never to be found during the making of the model. I ended up using Evergreen tubing, a lot easier to cut and retain.

 

Mk3Rake1.jpg

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Can I please request that you go into as much detail about the build as you are able to muster, I'm trying to work out if I'm capable of doing something similar in final IE state.

 

Can I just add.... Excellent work so far, the camera is a cruel mistress that highlights even the tiniest faults - so far, so very good! :D

 

Regards,

 

-Rob

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Can I please request that you go into as much detail about the build as you are able to muster, I'm trying to work out if I'm capable of doing something similar in final IE state.

 

Can I just add.... Excellent work so far, the camera is a cruel mistress that highlights even the tiniest faults - so far, so very good! :D

 

Regards,

 

-Rob

 

Hi Rob,

There are others on this site that are more experienced and competent than I but will give you my thoughts:

Using etched sides is the easiest area to start modelling outside RTR.

Having the correct tools makes the task more straight forward, so an assortment of drills, files, cutting knifes + a plentiful supply of blades, razor saw, epoxy glue, fillers are the main ones you will need.

I think it is essential to have good pictures of the real thing, it make it so much easier to have something to check with. Great pictures on this site of the Mk3 EGV

I put the etched side against the stripped down doner coach and mark with felt pen the new windows. Then it is a matter of cutting them out, sticking the etched sides to the coach and follow the instructions on drilling holes for hand rails etc.

On the EGV the roof details is good on the SSM kit and it’s a matter of drilling and cutting holes in the roof and cutting the roof ridges to fit on the lifting panel etches.

I started on etched kits and each one you do is better than the last so the only way is to have a go. Any mistakes can be covered by fillers and when it is painted and decals added only you will notice where they are.

So have a go, the hardest thing for me was cutting into a good coach, after that it was straight forward.

PM me if you come across any difficulty.

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Finally got round to putting lights onto my A Class. I used Micro LEDs from Express Models for the Marker Lights. The LEDs are connected by very thin wire with a plastic coating and have a mind of their own.

 

AClasslights002.jpg

 

The Headlights are white 3 mm LED’s. Because of so many LED’s I used a piece of plastic card to mount all 8 resistors. When I first tested the lights with a 9v battery only the white lights worked so I tried it on AC and all lit up like a Christmas tree, (the red must need more power).

 

AClasslights004.jpg

 

You can see all the gaps where the lights meet the Loco body so I need to cover them and paint the covering silver to stop leakage as suggested by Killucan2. Next is the routing all the wires out of the way of the chassis and motor. But I’m pleased to get this far with everything working.

 

AClasslights005.jpg

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Finally got round to putting lights onto my A Class. I used Micro LEDs from Express Models for the Marker Lights. The LEDs are connected by very thin wire with a plastic coating and have a mind of their own.

 

AClasslights002.jpg

 

The Headlights are white 3 mm LED’s. Because of so many LED’s I used a piece of plastic card to mount all 8 resistors. When I first tested the lights with a 9v battery only the white lights worked so I tried it on AC and all lit up like a Christmas tree, (the red must need more power).

 

AClasslights004.jpg

 

You can see all the gaps where the lights meet the Loco body so I need to cover them and paint the covering silver to stop leakage as suggested by Killucan2. Next is the routing all the wires out of the way of the chassis and motor. But I’m pleased to get this far with everything working.

 

AClasslights005.jpg

 

Looking Good. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product. That looks really fiddley>

Edited by kevrail
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Well done, looks complicated! I'm going to start mine any day now!

 

 

It’s not really complicated, it’s just fiddly work, having ten resistors and a total of 20 wires running to them and the blue, yellow and white leads from the decoder.

Patience they say is the ability to endure, amongst other things, provocation without becoming annoyed or upset, or to persevere calmly when faced with difficulties ---but I'm sure you have plenty of it. Good luck with your A Class.

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Cattle Dock for Kirley Junction

 

KJ-CattleDock001_zps66383a6f.jpg

 

I used a Ratio Cattle Dock kit + a part completed one from ebay which meant I had to make up the missing bits.

 

 

KJ-CattleDock002_zpsd36ceae8.jpg

 

 

 

KJ-CattleDock003_zps7a01dcf2.jpg

 

I also used a Wills sheet of cobble stones which I bought from the Model Shop in Cork about 3 years ago. It just goes to show everything will come in useful someday in the modeller’s world.

 

KJ-CattleDock004_zps5c35b245.jpg

 

 

Now I have to merge it into the Kirley junction layout and I’ll put up more pictures once I have that section completed.

 

KJ-CattleDock005_zps93930fe9.jpg

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Guest hidden-agenda

Nice job K the pens turned out well and a time consuming job that paid off, i take it your getting a few more cattle wagons to cope with the traffic.

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