David Holman

Suspect that if you removed the trains, the photos would still look good, such is the quality of the ballasting, trackwork and scenics. Sets off these wonderful trains so well.

And now for something completely different. Those of you who follow my ramblings will know that I have been interested in 'turf wagons' for some time. Considered building a couple for Arigna Town, but being next to a coal mine that didn't really work. However, Belmullet is not far from two major peat deposits that have been exploited since the middle of the last century and my 'Black Sod Bay Distillery' is deemed to have been peat fuelled since the start of the Emergency. Now, in the chosen 1950s period, turf is still brought to the distillery in a couple of the last remaining converted six wheel coaches. Well, that's the theory, anyway. After the endless bits and pieces that went into the MGW & GS&W vans, I decided to go back to doing some resin casting. At the moment, I'm only planning on building two vans, but such is the amount of panelling on these vehicles, it seems easier to just produce one side and one end [as opposed to four or each]. The first stage is to produce a couple of masters. The end is simple enough, just a suitably shaped piece of 60thou plastic sheet, with some micro strip to provide the panel lines. The side though, is more complex and follows the guidelines in David Jenkinson's book: 'Carriage Modelling Made Easy' - another one of those seminal tomes that is increasingly well thumbed over the years. First up, you make a simple inner side out of 20thou plastic, with just the window cut outs made. Not all of them are necessary, as these converted coaches have extra panelling on the outside, covering the some of the windows. However, the tricky bit comes next - a lattice cut out of 10thou plastic, which represents all of the original panelling. The GS&WR, annoyingly had panels with curved edges, so these are much more complicated [and tedious] to cut out than the Midland, who had mainly square edged panelling. Anyway, this takes quite a while to draw out and even longer to cut out, because all the curves need filing out with a rat tailed file - and there are lots of them. This is where making just single master helps, because you can concentrate on getting things right, safe in the knowledge that you don't have another one/three/five/etc of the damned things to do as well. Once completed, this lattice is then welded to the 20thou piece - carefully lining up the window openings. These vans were all boarded up on the inside, so a sheet of 40thou, suitably scribed with planking is welded to the first two sheets. finally a few extra planked boards are added to the outside. This is what is covered in the first three pictures. The next two photos show what I use for the moulding and casting. I get my stuff from 'Easy Composites', who are quickly found on an internet search and provide a next day service. What looks like a paint tin is the silicon moulding material. The little bottle next to it is the setting agent, which you add in the ratio of 5:100. A cheap set of measuring cups and paper cups from the local pound/euro shop come in very handy for mixing. The picture with the two bottles is of the resin casting material, which you mix 50/50. The latter sets in around half an hour, but the silicon mould takes 24 hours to cure. To make the mould, I fix the master to a piece of 80th plastic sheet and then build a wall round it with plastic strip. Obviously, it pays to make sure the master is as good [and clean] as possible, because any imperfections will show up on the castings. So, the silicon mould mix is well stirred and then poured onto the walled up master, then left for 24 hours to set. Over the years, have found this material has improved in quality, especially in terms of how easily any air bubbles float up to the surface. Once set the mould can be peeled away from the master. If there is any 'flash' [same as on plastic kits, but rubbery], this can be pulled off with your fingers, otherwise, the mould is now ready for use. The casting resin is mixed together and poured in. Half an hour later the casting is ready to have the mould peeled from it and you can start on another immediately. The last few photos show the results thus far. There are a few bits of flash to clean off, while the backs of the castings will need sanding down so there are all the same thickness. After such a lot of preparation time, it really is very satisfying to be able to produce multiple copies at will in fairly short order.

What a difference! Really brings out the quality of the mouldings.

Yup, also a beauty, as are all these new freight vehicles coming out. Judging by many recent layout threads, they are inspiring folk to make buildings and scenery just as good too.

Although I don't buy ready to run, as I enjoy making my own stuff, there is no doubt that current models are exponentially better in both appearance and running qualities than their predecessors. If I was starting again now, feel sure I'd be saving my pennies to buy locos, rather than build them myself. However, would still be keen to convert to the correct gauge, I think, though the new Peco 75 looks so much better, especially when properly ballasted, painted, weathered and viewed from a shallow angle. Guess the only question mark against current models might be their longevity and, especially, how easy they are to service and repair when things get worn or break. A bit like modern cars - at the start of learning to drive, I did my own servicing and most repairs (though there always seemed to be a part of two left over afterwards!), nowadays, the only time I lift the bonnet is the check the washer fluid and the oil. Going back to the 121, it looks stunning and if ever one is brought out in 7mm scale, I'll be forming a queue to buy one.

The vans have now been through both the paint shop and the weathering process. First step was a spray of Halford's grey primer. Next came the lettering and numbering, using a dipping pen and white acrylic ink. Rather than just use weathering powders, I wanted to give the vans a more detailed treatment, taking my cue from Martyn Welch's bible on the subject. Many of these vans were long lived, so I wanted to give them a well worn and slightly battered appearance. The key stages were as follows: First add some rust to the [many] metal plates and strapping. When you think about it, rust comes through from below the paint, so using a fine brush I gave all the metalwork a covering with the standard black/bauxite/gunmetal mix. Similarly, I wanted the woodwork to look like the paint was wearing off and that a few individual planks had been replaced, but left unpainted. To represent the latter I carefully painted a few planks with a mix of 'natural wood' and grey [Humbrol 110 and 64]. Other areas were splurged with the same mix and then the vans put aside for a couple of days for this paint to harden. Next I painted over the rusty metal work and worn wood with Humbrol 64 and again left this for a day to harden. Now comes the clever bit from Martyn's book. Using a small glass fibre pencil, you abrade the grey paint covering the rusty metal work, allowing the latter to show through. The other trick is to use plastic solvent - the strong stuff, not DL Lemonine, and dab this onto the overpainted grey areas, which causes this top coat to craze and peel. More work with a craft knife and abrasives ends up with the rust and bare wood appearing underneath. I also used the glass fibre pencil on the lettering - especially the large GS ones, so they likewise look worn and faded. The final two stages involve a wash of the weathering mix over the whole of the bodywork - with heavier applications from the chassis, becoming lighter towards the roof. Once this is dry, a dusting with weathering powders follows - rust for the axle box covers, springs and brakes, then grey over the whole of the body and roof, to tone things down. So, there we are, a longer term project that started with the J19, then the MGWR 'hearse' [both etched kits], followed by the glasshouse brake and the three vans. The final picture shows the train in full, with some close ups of the three new wagons, which hopefully show up the detail and weathering nicely.

Thanks Colin. The Worsley portfolio is enormous, though by no means all of it is available at any one time. Have built several models from Worsley etches and they are a great aid to scratchbuilding. However, certainly not kits, as no instructions or castings, so a lot of work required to complete the model. The wee Donegal not on my radar at the moment, as the stocklist for Belmullet in the 1900s is extensive, but a full on kit for a 2-6-4T would certainly get me thinking!

Try Wizard Models, who have an extensive on line catalogue and ordering service for signalling parts.

Nothing, I'm afraid. Was simply responding to how the concept of such a thing could set my imagination working. Alphagraphix do a range of card kits, castings and whatnots that could make the possibility of modelling the Donegal in 7mm scale very tempting.

A 7mm Donegal tank could seriously disrupt my modelling plans!

Here's a thought, did a Sligo fuel train exist in the 1950s and if so what wagons? Fine work as usual!

Their compact pressure washer is half the price of a similar Karcher and has great reviews too.

Being in the middle of a modelling project that involves waiting for paint to dry, thought I'd instead share a few more exhibition memories, focussing this time on the visitors. There is no doubt that modellers can be a strange and eclectic bunch, particularly to those who do not share our passion. As a regular exhibitor, I have the privilege, sometimes dubious, of meeting the full range of characters who frequent the shows. Most are really nice people and it is one of the pleasures of exhibiting that you get to talk to so many. The majority are keen to know more about the model railway, with the usual questions of 'Where is that?/What scale do you work in?/Why can you buy such models?' etc etc. When told most of the stuff they can see is completely hand built, quite a few will suggest they could never do that sort of thing - so it is nice to be able to explain that a lot of techniques are really quite simple & it is more about time and patience than anything else. The ones I especially like are those who like to share their own knowledge and quite often a real exchange of ideas results, so it is a good job my friendly operator John can keep things going while I talk to the punters. You learn so much too, not least in the case of Galteemore, of this parish, who has given me several lessons on the correct pronunciations of Irish place names! Prototype information is always appreciated and I've acquired various drawings and photos from folk I've met. Most people are very positive, though there was one instance when a gent asked what period my Fintonagh layout was meant to represent. When I told him it was the late 1930s, he sniffed and said it couldn't be because my Guinness advert was later than that, before wandering off. Feel sure there are better ways of offering advice! On the other hand, many years ago now, was helping operate a layout called Groombridge, owned by our then club chairman Alan. He was a fine modeller and Groombridge was a scale model of the actual station. However, on this particular morning, a gentleman also asked the question about period and actual time of year. When told it was summer mid 1930s, he gently pointed out that the area behind the signal box was incorrect. His father had been signalman at the time and always grew runner beans by the line side. Alan took great delight in making sure there was a small addition to the scenery next time it went out - much to our visitor's approval. You get a few characters, such as the ones who delight in trainspotting and actually note all the numbers of the locos on show. Children can be great fun, though not the ones who like to poke and touch everything. Most are just as interested as the adults though. Remember talking to one dad and asked his son if he had a model railway. No came the reply, but 0 gauge was being built for him in the loft, with Gauge 1 for dad in the garden. Nice! Then there was the chap sporting an Aston Martin wind cheater. When I casually enquired if he has come to the show in it, his reply was to the positive - though he did alternate it with his Bentley!

Plasticard, JB. Same as the MGW vans. I use the Alphagraphix card kit as a drawing only.

GSWR vans Two more vans based on an Alphagraphix card kit. Built in the same way as the MGW versions, but thankfully with a lot less strapping and gingerbread. Hence got them built somewhat quicker. My 'mixed fish' train for the J19 only needs three wagons, so one of the GSWR models is going to be painted in original [black] livery and with a canvas roof covering the central section. The 1950s version has gained a sheet of wiggly tin for this bit, in this case Slater's plastic. The wagons run on 3'7 spoked wheels, which means they sit fractionally higher at the buffer beam, though the roof line is still lower than the MGW versions. Couplings still need to be added.

Quite remarkable. The way the church rises above the frontage is quite something. Must have taken a lot of planning too, with all those complex roof lines.

Think you are right in both Patrick. Nevertheless, shows the value of a simple mockup, especially one in the right colours.

MGWR John. Scroll up to see origins, but yes, 'tis a drover's van. The Sligo had a couple too.

Dirty, but still subtle, while the correct track gauge (nicely blasted and painted) makes the whole scene hangs together really well.

Nice. Very nice. Many thanks!

Great thread and fascinating info as ever.

Not surprised to see that even the control equipment is an architectural masterpiece! DCC certainly not two wires. If only...

Never into war gaming itself, but always interested in how non - railway modellers do things. There are techniques out there we can learn from and master craftsman Gordon Gravett is a keen advocate of such things, being a professional model ship builder in the real world.

O gauge models and accessories mentioned I see. Are we to be tempted by something in the larger scale?

One for the Bantry boys maybe?