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  • 1 month later...

2 days later red under-coat was sprayed, using red to get a deep satin black...

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2 days later satin black was sprayed

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Then it was back to finalising the cab for painting, this required a few more parts soldered on, first the washout plugs on the cab side, these were missing from the kit so a few brass bits were made up from sheet for the surround and .8mm wire for the plugs themselves

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The sides were cleaned with fibre brush before soldering, I held the plug in place with a cocktail stick and flowed solder in under, it all worked out great.

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Next the inside window frames and the doors needed soldering on, the window frames required mods to avoid the revet detail around the window opes, the cab insides needed a bit of a clean up to get the frames to sit down flush, so I decided to file down all edges, handrail fittings, the rest, and then gave it a bit of a blast before doing the soldering

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All done, but the roof aint fitting very well and I cant bring myself to epoxying it on, so some mods are being made up in brass to hook the roof on so that it can be removed to view the inside cab when the backhead is complete in all its glory- that will be next time....

FSO-150 IMAG2835.jpg




Edited by murrayec
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Top of the drawer stuff as always Eoin, your photos are always a joy.


Edit: When you mention epoxy and the roof, I'm reminded of Tony Wright being asked recently by members of IRM team why he doesn't do resin kits of steam loco's.


To paraphrase, "You can't solder resin" was his response :P



Edited by Glenderg
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Thanks all for comments


The roof is a hunk of plastic, badly distorted from using an unbelievable amount of cyano glue in the first build of this kit! I cleaned it up and got it back into shape but the open end just wont take the correct curve, reinforcing is required by adding strips of brass with a joggle at ends that will hook onto the cab sides and 'keep the shape!'



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  • 3 weeks later...



Getting ready to paint the wheels, so I got out the tender chassis that was part built. Out with the acetone and started to dismantle the break gear that was super glued on- how he was going to paint it I don't know!

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On closer inspection I found some real guntering- two of the break levers were sheared off and an attempt to make do was implemented leading to wavy break rods.

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Even worse- the incorrect axle bearings were used with about 1mm of slop and most of the bearings were not glued in.

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No right angles could be found in the assembly, the frame spacers were not glued in also. I reckon if it was run like this the rattle would have been annoying, and most likely it would have fallen apart.

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'Railway Modellers Acetone Cocktail'

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A few hours later I got the wheels and a number of other bits, the correct bearings will have to be sourced and a plan for those two sheared break levers....

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To late to be masking the wheels now



Edited by murrayec
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It can be interesting to see how others have built things! Indeed, am not entirely sure what folk would think of my stuff if they knew what was under the paint, filler etc... For me, the crucial things are it looks good and runs well [if applicable]. What Eoin is doing is pure craftsmanship, which the rest of us can only look on in awe and wonder - hoping it inspires us to make our own stuff a bit better as a result.

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  • 1 month later...

I hung the Scot cab roof this evening...


I wanted the roof to be removable and devised a plan to hook it in there with some brass noggled strips. The back end of the cab sides did not line up with the roof, the kit relies on the roof to support these when glued on...


So a .5mm thick curvy frame was cut out and filed up n soldered in

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The noggled strips were cut from .28mm thick brass 40mm long, the noggel was achieved by sandwiching the strip between two strips of .5mm brass, one on one side and the other on the other with a 1.5mm gap between the bending edges, taped together and scrunched in the bench vice

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The noggel

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The roof was marked up with the strips in trial position, then the roof was scored with a knife, ditto to the brass strips after a good clean with the fibre brush and the lot was epoxied with a little bit of cling film around the cab wall top so that only the brass strips stick to the roof

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I'll leave that for the night and see how it worked in the morning



Edited by murrayec
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  • 1 month later...



The cab roof mod above worked very well.....


Painting wheels, cab and backhead stuff on the Flying Scot.....


The wheels were mounted an ply boards with brass counter-sunk screws to keep the paint out of the hub, a washer is under the wheels so they are above the timber and can be rotated while the paint is wet and the screw doesn't stick.

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The backhead was under-coated and painted satin black, Humbrol masking liquid was used to mask off around the dial gauges, and the gauges were painted brass colour to pick out their surrounds. The dial gauge faces are little drawings printed off on the inkjet printer, covered with clear transpaseal, cut out and stuck on.

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Cab stuff being finished off, soon ready to put the back-head together.

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Cab with first coats going on.

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Backhead now up and running, PB wire was used for the pipework as it looks like copper and doesn't need painting, nice looking bit of stuff but very fiddly to do- the water gauges and hand-wheels were all out of shape from the last build attempt and I had to play around with them to tidy them up. The water gauge faces were done on the inkjet printer as per the dial gauges.

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FSO-174 IMAG3205.jpg



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Good lord, what stunning modelling skills on display there. That cab interior is something to marvel at, it's just magnificent. I haven't read any of the other pages in this thread, is this 00 scale?


Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant.



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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...



While moulding the Class A bogie sides I made a mould to replace the damaged break shoes, here is a few shots.....

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This is a photo of the four castings and one of the original parts the mould was made from.

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Much easier than the A stuff cause its nice thick parts and the metal flows through the mould- even when the mould is cold!



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  • 4 weeks later...

Decals on the chassis and wheels was next, another handy use for the chassis jig- sticking on decals!


The red lines were a nightmare, I finally figured it out- cut them up and stick each line on separate, if you try to say stick on those 'L' shapes they twist and stick to themselves and then break as one tries to untie them.




Wheels were next, same nightmare and even worse- two of the bogie wheel transfers had been sliced up in the packet by metal parts they were in with, one was in about 10 pieces and they were floating around in the water- 'Decal Fishing'


All done, just a coat of satin varnish to hide the decal-fix and seal them, then the chassis is ready to go back together. Is that the cab all test fitted up?


Yes it is, first test burn of the boiler!



Two flickering LEDs from Baseboard Dave- red n orange, mounted behind the backhead with fire door open and a bit of tracing paper with black marker on as a diffuser and coal look......



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