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murrayec
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This is possibly one of the finest engineering /design crossover threads on this forum. The attention to detail is astonishing. The bodging of rivets to make them look right, even better.

 

But, I think it says something pretty disappointing when this thread has arrived amongst the Belmond fervour, and only a few respond.

 

This should be inspiration to any modeller on this forum.

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But, I think it says something pretty disappointing when this thread has arrived amongst the Belmond fervour, and only a few respond.

 

This should be inspiration to any modeller on this forum.

 

Agreed but maybe you are assuming there are a lot of actual modellers on this Forum.

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Just seeing this now. Only stuck for new superlatives to express my admiration. Here goes...

 

Wowzers

My giddy aunt

Clucking bell.

Jayzuss.

 

 

In summary Eoin, you've done a spectacular job, and all bespoke and handbuild. Magnificent.

Bar set very high indeed. The chassis is someting else though. It looks like it has some heft in it.

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Agreed but maybe you are assuming there are a lot of actual modellers on this Forum.

 

I'd be one of those. I'm more of a collector, runner. I know I have no model building ability, the only thing I'd even consider to attempt would be one of the SSM 42ft flats, I won't even talk about actually trying to paint.

 

Massive piece of work here BTW.

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I'd be one of those. I'm more of a collector, runner. I know I have no model building ability, the only thing I'd even consider to attempt would be one of the SSM 42ft flats, I won't even talk about actually trying to paint.

 

Massive piece of work here BTW.

 

If you make a 42ft flat you'd be well equipped from the experience to make other stuff thereafter I reckon. Good place to start.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Flying Scot Springs, breaks, steps & stuff...

 

Springs were next, these are fiddly etched laminations that were cleaned up and sweat soldered with 180 deg solder. Some cusp filing is required in areas before soldering- as once stuck one cannot get a file in at these areas.

FSO-74 IMAG2311.jpg

 

FSO-75 IMAG2312.jpg

 

FSO-76 IMAG2315.jpg

 

FSO-77 IMAG2316.jpg

 

One of the spring assemblies has been modified with the horn block arm cut off! this is required for the suspension modification I've done to the kit, 3 more will be cut as per....

FSO-80 IMAG2317.jpg

 

The break castings were cleaned up and found to be poor castings on one side, the mould was off centre when cast and caused a step in the casting. When offered up to chassis and wheels, the castings were fatter and touching the flange of the wheels, a slight mod was done with the edge of a file to thin the shaft and allow clearance for the wheels.

FSO-78 IMAG2320.jpg

 

FSO-79 IMAG2321.jpg

 

All done and ready to go onto the chassis after I set up the electrical pick up arrangement. The long break push rods where mangled in the previous build and took quite a bit of work to straighten out- but it worked!

 

Next was missing part making- the rivet detail on the driver steps, and a tiny footplate support were missing for one side and these had to be made

FSO-81 IMAG2324.jpg

 

The trick to punching out fine rivet strips is to stay away from the edges of the sheet, this minimises distortion and helps to give the proper shape, once punched the strip is cut to close size, it's flattened, and then filed to size. A light filing on the top of the rivets give a good match to the etched ones from the kit- the middle strip is the home made one!

FSO-82 IMAG2327.jpg

 

FSO-83 IMAG2328.jpg

 

FSO-84 IMAG2331.jpg

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Rivet detail soldered on the steps with a quick clean up

FSO-85 IMAG2332.jpg

 

Rear chassis spring and horn block detail was next, these white metal castings were all out of shape and quite hard to get flat. They were prepared for sweat soldering onto the chassis with 140 deg solder on the brass and 70 deg solder on the white metal. The horn block covers were soldered with 70 deg solder.

FSO-86 IMAG2333.jpg

 

FSO-87 IMAG2335.jpg

 

FSO-88 IMAG2336.jpg

 

FSO-89 IMAG2337.jpg

 

To minimise spreading solder all over the brass I marked up the location with a pencil, solder will not freely pass over a graphite line so is handy for this job. The parts are sweated on to the brass by using the iron on the inside of the chassis and not near the white metal, if more solder was required the 70 deg was used.

FSO-90 IMAG2339.jpg

 

FSO-91 IMAG2342.jpg

 

FSO-92 IMAG2343.jpg

 

FSO-93 IMAG2344.jpg

 

All done with the tender coupler installed

FSO-94 IMAG2345.jpg

 

Eoin

Edited by murrayec
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  • 1 month later...

Hi

 

Thanks guys...

 

So then next step is to stick on all the springs, break gear, electrical pick-up board, and bogie truck centring springs. The road springs are laminated with 180deg solder so they will be stuck to the chassis with 145deg, so hopefully nothing will fall asunder...

FSO-95 IMAG2474.jpg

 

....and that happened! the chassis is a big heat sink and the soldering station was a bit slow on the regain- loads of heat into the spring components but the heat ran away through the chassis, time for the Big Boy! a 100 watt Weller, no problem now with heat running away, the join was instant. Though one has to be careful....

FSO-96 IMAG2484.jpg

 

Road springs and horn block keepers on and a little clean-up required, I stuck small bits of tape on the bearings inside and out to protect from the flux, phosphorous is very corrosive and I'd like to keep it away from them

FSO-97 IMAG2480.jpg

 

FSO-98 IMAG2481.jpg

 

All cleaned up, break gear being test fitted, and the pick-up board being worked out, wiper type pick-ups will be used and the front bogie truck centring spring will be mounted on the front of this board. The board will be M2 screw fixed to two threaded brass angle plates soldered to the frame spacers. There is also a central slot for the gearbox drive gear to stick through

FSO-99 IMAG2486.jpg

 

FSO-100 IMAG2497.jpg

 

FSO-101 IMAG2490.jpg

 

FSO-102 IMAG2491.jpg

 

Front truck spring assembly soldered up, .6mm NS wire spring with two M2 screws to fix, M2 nuts captive soldered to board for this mounting. The break cross rods have been thinned with 145deg solder in prep for soldering into the WM break blocks with 70deg solder

FSO-103 IMAG2500.jpg

 

FSO-104 IMAG2493.jpg

 

FSO-105 IMAG2498.jpg

 

......

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.....

 

WM Break blocks were soldered with 70deg solder to pre thinned chassis holes with 145deg solder and all the break rod assembly soldered up

FSO-106 IMAG2499.jpg

 

Test assembly of the front truck spring, one can just make out the loop on the truck that this wire will go through to spring the truck- this unit goes in after the truck is mounted to the chassis

FSO-107 IMAG2503.jpg

 

FSO-108 IMAG2504.jpg

 

Rear truck .6mm NS wire centring spring going together, this spring will also put slight down pressure on the truck

FSO-109 IMAG2506.jpg

 

FSO-110 IMAG2508.jpg

 

FSO-111 IMAG2509.jpg

 

Just about complete and ready for the paint shop, footplate supports and front wheel guards yet to go on but holding off on that one until the wheels are off and the whole is about to be painted

FSO-112 IMAG2515.jpg

 

FSO-113 IMAG2512.jpg

 

FSO-114 IMAG2513.jpg

 

FSO-115 IMAG2516.jpg

 

FSO-116 IMAG2517.jpg

 

Eoin

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Not a bad idea! The pouch could be especially useful for catching small items of modelling before they are lost on the floor. Maybe some fine mesh at the top, so all the 'liquids' can still be drained off by the handy little tap I've just noticed. Suspect a whole body suit might be best for for though - I have a habit of wearing much of what I work on, eat, drink etc...

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  • 2 months later...

Today was set aside for some Flying Scot work, the first day back at this project since 2016.....

 

So I set up the electrical pick-up wiper arrangement before the chassis was dissembled and prepared for the paint shop. The wipers are .4mm NS wire soldered to a brass angle bracket screw fixed to the buzz-plate, I decided that the wipers would be removable- this makes installing easier as the wipers have to go over the chassis, outside the springs, under the break push rods, and spring reach the rear of the wheels.

 

The components, two of the brackets are removed from the plate. The centre wheel wiper pick-ups are bent in a U shape.

FSO-117 IMAG2675.jpg

 

This is the setup for soldering the wipers to the brass brackets.

FSO-118 IMAG2676.jpg

 

FSO-119 IMAG2678.jpg

 

All soldered up with 140deg solder.

FSO-120 IMAG2679.jpg

 

Copper clad removed for electrical isolation, also removed where the screws pass through to mount the Buzz-Plate to the chassis.

FSO-121 IMAG2680.jpg

 

This is the wobbly wheel, as you can see its a dodgy screw, it should be flush with the face of the wheel hub- it's off centre and wont tighten down evenly in the taper of the wheel.

FSO-122 IMAG2681.jpg

 

With the wiper thing sorted the chassis had a few final delicate items soldered on- footplate outriggers and front wheel guards, now ready for a blast and etch prime.

FSO-123 IMAG2683.jpg

 

FSO-124 IMAG2685.jpg

 

FSO-125 IMAG2682.jpg

 

and.....

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The smoke box door was missing the rivet detail on the hinge straps, this shot is a setup to decide the size and number- I went for 11 on each strap.

FSO-126 IMAG2686.jpg

 

Out with my Nutter.

FSO-128 IMAG2688.jpg

 

These little guys are stuck on with Humbrol Clear.

FSO-129 IMAG2690.jpg

 

Brass turnings to replace the missing Dart from the kit, just needs a little touch with solder and it will be glued on after the painting is done.

FSO-127 IMAG2687.jpg

 

FSO-130 IMAG2692.jpg

 

FSO-131 IMAG2693.jpg

 

 

Eoin

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A few shots of the chassis, trucks and bits prepared for blasting and painting. Little wood dowels are fitted into the wheel bearings so that the bearing does not get sandblasted and ruin the running surface, these are also left in place during painting.

FSO-132 IMAG2726.jpg

 

FSO-133 IMAG2727.jpg

 

FSO-134 IMAG2730.jpg

 

All blasted, that lovely sparkly surface is the best finish for the etch paint primer.

FSO-135 IMAG2732.jpg

 

FSO-136 IMAG2734.jpg

 

FSO-137 IMAG2738.jpg

 

Within 10mins of blasting three light spray coats of primer given with 20mins between each and it now looks like this.

FSO-138 IMAG2739.jpg

 

FSO-139 IMAG2742.jpg

 

FSO-140 IMAG2740.jpg

 

Eoin

Edited by murrayec
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