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On 6/12/2017 at 11:57 PM, murrayec said:

I hung the Scot cab roof this evening...


I wanted the roof to be removable and devised a plan to hook it in there with some brass noggled strips. The back end of the cab sides did not line up with the roof, the kit relies on the roof to support these when glued on...


So a .5mm thick curvy frame was cut out and filed up n soldered in

FSO-160 IMAG3114.jpg


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The noggled strips were cut from .28mm thick brass 40mm long, the noggel was achieved by sandwiching the strip between two strips of .5mm brass, one on one side and the other on the other with a 1.5mm gap between the bending edges, taped together and scrunched in the bench vice

FSO-164 IMAG3122.jpg


The noggel

FSO-165 IMAG3124.jpg


The roof was marked up with the strips in trial position, then the roof was scored with a knife, ditto to the brass strips after a good clean with the fibre brush and the lot was epoxied with a little bit of cling film around the cab wall top so that only the brass strips stick to the roof

FSO-166 IMAG3126.jpg


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I'll leave that for the night and see how it worked in the morning





What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.


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Some lovely work being done on this thread, a true master craftsman at work .Well done Eoin

2 hours ago, Georgeconna said:



What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.



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8 hours ago, Georgeconna said:



What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.


Hi George, if you mean this bit?


....with a piercing saw by hand, with a very fine jewellers blade


Edited by murrayec
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  • 2 months later...

Hi all,

Some work has been going on the Scot build;-

The boiler and footplate are getting their final components,


the boiler is bolt fixed to the footplate so it can be removed from the footplate for painting both and lining the boiler- far easier to do if they come apart.


Footplate detail- lubricators, exhaust pipe casing n stuff. The casing required major filling to get it to sit in under the smokebox snuggle in. Thats one side done, the other to go, then all the little pipelines in PB wire. When in place and with the boiler handrails installed I'm ready to start painting......


Wheel crankpin upgrade was decided, Mr Mundy's Heavy Duty Crankpins were acquired, a nice little set of brass pins and round head NS screws out front to finish. The wheels have to be drilled out and the pins are retained by a brass countersunk screw sunk in the back of the wheel.


Filling down the crankpins to a smidgen above the rods


Test fitting the drive wheels, crankpins, and rods. Bogie truck and pony truck assembled- some problems with the crankpins!! The front wheel crankpin screw was fouling the connecting rod- by the thickness of the screw head, so all apart again


I modified the crankpins by turning down the middle collar- I had a feeling it was a bit fat. I also turned down the screw heads for the front wheels to get the max clearance behind the connecting rod. The top ones in each photo are the modified



Then assembly again, final assembly this time.....



The crankpin mod works- its very tight though



Nearly there for a test run.......


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Sublime and an object lesson on chassis building. You WILL be taking the thing apart and re-assembling it several times during construction.

Even the best kits require some fettling, while the worst can be the catalyst to scratch building. Indeed, am inclined to think that there is less fettling with a scratch build - though you do spend more time making bits of course!

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Thanks Guys

I agree David, scratch building is less fettled, I think its because it's us designing and making the parts as we go and not a chap at a drawing board who will never actually build the model he designs! Thats not throughout the kit designer industry, but I have had some major problems with kits, and also, read about it.....


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Flying Scot tender chassis

All cleaned up and ready to go, spent a few hours removing the cusp and getting things all straight again


Out with 100watt Iron, 180deg solder and sizzled some flux


I sussed the axle bearing issue- the two centre bearings are over sized for the bends. In the previous build they had been installed in the wrong place!


Jigged up and ready to solder, 180deg again in at the back of the bearings


Bearings done and underframe stuff soldered on with 70deg solder after the brass was thinned with 180deg solder


Wheels on and break gear test fitted ready for soldering


FSO-202 IMAG3672.jpg

Wheels off again and all brass areas to take white metal pre thinned with 180deg solder


Same on the break cross rods


Wheels back on to position the break shoes for 70deg soldering, I decided to not solder the break pull rods on, as there is 2mm tolerance between the pull rods and the wheels and I cannot see any way in getting the wheels off if their soldered on. They will be epoxied on after painting is complete.

I did use the pull rods to get everything lined up for soldering and this is a photo of the set-up



Soldered up


and a good wash


A bit of a sand blast and ready for painting.....




Edited by murrayec
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  • 1 month later...

Thanks guys for great coments

I started on the upper tender stuff on the Flying Scot, a lot of cusp removal from the brass parts and sized up everything to plan it out. The upper tender section will be removable, I reckon this is better for painting and it allows disassembly if problems occur.. it also allows the tender inside to be accessed if one wants to install anything at a later date

Working out the system to assemble the tender structure without using the footplate, the plate will be fixed to the chassis detailed above, so then the plastic structure and all the bits assembled on it will be removable....


Lots of little bits required two evenings cleaning up


All the set up work is now complete on the footplate parts of the loco and now getting ready to stick things on


Lubricators, atomizers, and .4mm PB wire pipework setup to go on the valve chests on the footplate- a lot of little holes drilled...


Valve chests ready



Firebox washout plugs installed and boiler handrails test fitted and ready to be stuck on


A hold up again as the parts to support the break steam pipe that runs from the smokebox back to the cab are missing- should have some split pins that should work- off to look see....


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Cant believe it! not a split pin suitable in the workshop. So set about making up a few out of .8mm brass wire

Clamped down in the vice on a piece of hardwood and filed the wire flat on one side


Then measured off 5 lengths, bent them over the PB wire steam pipe, cut them, and then pinched each with a pliers to form the eyelets 


Split pins


With that done I started to fit the lubricators, atomizers, and pipes- this photo shows the steam pipe installed with the split pins


Hand rails completed with wrap around over smoke box door rim, lubricators, atomizer and pipes installed on this side



All complete and very close to start painting- small bit of straightening up and a bit of filling here n there


Its great to get this job completed, I wasn't to sure how the pipes were going to work with my plan of being able to remove the boiler from the footplate for painting. It does work but some of the pipes will have to be installed after painting- otherwise it worked out Deadly!



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Just impeccable work Eoin, the level of detail is second to none. I suspect that most would omit the idea of adding pipes to their build to make life just that little bit easier. 

One of the greatest things about this hobby is that there are experts in every field creating works of art the rest of us can only drool over. This morning I’m drooling. 


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In the larger scales, if it is there, you are duty bound to model it, especially if it can be seen from a foot away. Hence bigger stuff not really a bonus for the eyes - you can include so much more and it is what gives bigger models more character.

Nice trick with the home made split pins, Eoin. Another one to remember!

 As for the loco, it is really coming together and each fresh bit of gingerbread makes it that bit better. Am also drooling again 

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Hi all

So with the Bray Fair cancelled on Sunday I had a bit of spare time- Flying Scot upper tender body time!

With my plan on being able to remove the upper body I cut some waste brass sprue to make two brackets to hold it together on assembly, straps cut, scored for folding, and M2 bolt holes drilled..


All folded up and setup to mark holes in footplate


Captive M2 nuts about to be soldered on, using the excellent modellers tool to hold the nuts in place- cocktail sticks!


All soldered up with 180deg solder, soldered the folds also for a bit of rigidity


M2 holes in footplate were countersunk for the screws


After a few minor adjustments the upper body was installed and the unit was epoxied, making sure the footplate was not glued


While that was setting I started on the tender main frames, these needed the rivets embossed out first, the kit has half etched marks for this


This is a very handy rivet embossing tool which I made a new MDF table for, and I get to try it out for the first time here- its hard to hold a part in place with nothing to rest it or your hand on when using the punch, it works really well


Nice little embossed rivits


I then soldered on the frame steps, steps rivet detail, and the axle box keeper plates with 180deg solder


All cleaned up and frames now ready to be fitted to the footplate





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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a GW Models rivetting tool that is similar and that certainly works well on plastics up to 20 thou (0.5mm) thick.

 The MDF table takes it to a new level though. Must remember to make one before I start my next brass kit.

So much to enjoy and learn on this thread. Thanks Eoin!

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