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Posted (edited)
To hell with that!

 

Ah it might be worth it to have a decent chassis compared to the single power bogie and limited diagonal power pickup many Hornby diesels. 141s can be bought used in mint condition for €80, so that's not an insane price for a top quality precision chassis to run an A class properly. Add SSM detailing plus weathering and lights, then you have one really nice loco.

Edited by Noel
Posted
A little video of my own A class that has the Hornby Deltic chassis,

and SSM detail kit.The deltic chassis is not bad at slow speed and

the only problem I find is traction,mainly because the bass reflex

speaker takes up a lot of space.She can haul 11 cement wagons

no bother.

th_20141021_125849_zpshdi0patz.mp4

 

I actually have a deltic, to my untrained eye (ehem) it looks longer than a class A could be wrong:D

Posted (edited)

A 141/181 has four axels.

 

An A Class has 6 axels. Are people planning to put a cosmetic axel on either end of the MM chassis or is for a C class?

Edited by Glenderg
Posted
A 141/181 has four axels.

 

An A Class has 6 axels. Are people planning to put a cosmetic axel on either end of the MM chassis or is for a C class?

 

Ha, it's for a C class, Richie. :)

 

 

 

I actually have a deltic, to my untrained eye (ehem) it looks longer than a class A could be wrong:D

 

You'll have to do a bit of 'cutting and shutting' with the Deltic chassis.

Posted
I actually have a deltic, to my untrained eye (ehem) it looks longer than a class A could be wrong:D

You are right Alan, the Hornby

Deltic chassis is far too long for

the A class body, hence the the

chassis has to be cut in the middle

and Deltic fuel tank removed.

When you buy the A class resin body,

you get the fuel tank sides and a bit of

plastic card will finish off the missing bit

in the middle.The resin kit also comes

with the bogie side frames which match

up nicely on the Deltic bogies.

My workbench has some photos

of my build of a39.

Posted
A 141/181 has four axels.

 

An A Class has 6 axels. Are people planning to put a cosmetic axel on either end of the MM chassis or is for a C class?

 

I was actually talking about the A class! I'd give a cosmetic axle a go with the Athearn chassis. You can pick them up handy (and cheaply) enough on Ebay and they can be made to run very well with a bit of work.

I certainly would'nt spend close to €100 on a 141 just to stick the chassis under a silverfox kit.

Posted
Enough of this pricking around with powering your A class. Buy an Atlas/Kato HO Scale RSD 4/5 and slap it underneath. It'll be the best runner in your fleet.

 

Has anyone done this? I assume there's a bit of chopping involved.....

Posted

Bachmann USA do an Alco S2 switcher in HO for a reasonable price that looks to me like a decent candidate for a C Class chassis. Bogies aren't a mile away in shape and the battery box is a close enough shape too

Posted
They're all going to be compromises, but it would be better than a Railroad Deltic.

 

No argument there....

I have one and I'm not too impressed with it. I replaced the traction tyres with metal wheels so it now picks up power on all wheels, added a load of weight and it still would'nt pull the skin of a rice pudding!

Posted
Looks a bit long to me; too much space between the bogies....

 

atlasrsd45.jpg

 

What seems to matter is the length of the chassis (i.e.: distance between the front axle and the rearmost axle of the two bogies). The bogies are shorter than A class hence the larger gap between them (i.e. the three axles of each bogie are closer together). This loco chassis is centre flywheel drive to both bogies so should outperform the toy Hornby's by a country mile for smooth slow running.

Posted
Actually that one in the picture is too short - it's a bleedin' N gauge model!:D

 

No prob just put it in the microwave for 2mins on medium power and it will enlarge :)

Posted
What seems to matter is the length of the chassis (i.e.: distance between the front axle and the rearmost axle of the two bogies). The bogies are shorter than A class hence the larger gap between them (i.e. the three axles of each bogie are closer together).

 

I hope you're not comparing the wheelbase of the rsd 4/5 to the a class, because we're talking about a model here, not the prototype. The H0 version of the rsd 4/5 matches with a scale 6 inches to the 00 chassis, and they both run, effectively, on the same track.

 

I'll take a photo of the chassis beside the A class drawings tomorrow for you. It might give a bit of clarity to the matter and put the question of "what to stick under an A Class" to bed once and for all.

Posted

Can I suggest the Hornby 31 class, central can motor all wheel drive. Needs major hacksaw work, but great runner and powerful, will cost about stg£90-110

 

or the railroad version Hornby R3067 Class 31 Diesel c.£60

Posted

I've emptied the stock box, and taken as many orthographic, or as close as, photos to help. Most are Lima pancake jobs, so I'm not sure what the current Hornby innards are of these. You'll have to google/debate the pro's and con's of each, but most are cut n shuts - never an ideal solution. *When I say "perfect alignment" it does not mean so. The bogies on the A-Class are trimount, and no RTR manufacturer allows for the offset arrangement of the central axel. The central one is shanked to one side.

 

DSCF9030.jpg

 

Deltic chassis as used under the Sulzer - almost right, needs a cosmetic sideframe, and hornby version wouldn't pull hot snot - see Kirley's trials with it on his WB.

 

DSCF9032.jpg

 

Yank thing - SD9? - Easy to cut and shut, no weight, will need cosmetic sideframes, perfect alignment.

 

DSCF9033.jpg

 

Class 50 Hoover - cut and shut job, needs cosmetic sideframes, perfect alignment. Pulling power questionable.

 

DSCF9034.jpg

 

Class 47 - same as above Class 50

 

DSCF9035.jpg

 

Class 31 - Bogie is far too big - sorry Des :(( On the positive, the sideframes are good if you wish to go slightly oversized.

 

DSCF9036.jpg

 

DSCF9037.jpg

 

Altas RSD4/5 Chassis - very slightly underscale, but front to back axles are correct, trimount bogie present, no cutting required. Central tank is die cast metal, so unsure how one would deal with it. Warbonnet tells me it's relatively easy to DCC these elderly, but powerful chassis'. I hope that does something to inform this debate. Richie.

Posted
Altas RSD4/5 Chassis - very slightly underscale, but front to back axles are correct, trimount bogie present, no cutting required. Central tank is die cast metal, so unsure how one would deal with it. Warbonnet tells me it's relatively easy to DCC these elderly, but powerful chassis'. I hope that does something to inform this debate. Richie.

 

Nice post, Richie... should put an end to all the speculation!

 

Re. DCC-ing the Atlas chassis... it's a simple process of removing the circuit board and dropping in a Digitrax DH165A0 decoder.

Posted

Wowza!! Someone sticky this posting. Great research there Richie.

 

I'd forgotten how over size the 31 is, but if you push them out to the buffers a bit, they don't look too bad.

Posted

The Railroad 31 would have the same 5 poll motor of the Railroad Deltic. It is a smooth runner but without traction tyres lacking in pulling power. The modern 31 they do is excellent running wise although expensive. However, some have had chassis rot and expansion issues. As a result you can sometimes buy the guts cheap on eBay for a few quid and scratch a chassis for it. I bought one a while ago to slap into a Lima 31. Atlas chassis is usually cheaper and an even better runner with less work to do so it would always be my choice. That's just my opinion though.

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