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Kingsbridge - paint shop

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Noel

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Pals at WMRC gently hinted that a change of back scene might look better when photographing models off the workbench or out of the paintshop so here are one or two updates. Thank you WMRC pals for the present of a roll of back scene. :)

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  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Had a quick go at weathering one of my new IRM Fertiliser wagons this evening. Mainly weathering powders washed on in solution and then rubbed off again using damp cotton buds. The loads also got a bit of a wash to dull the bright white bags. These wagons seem the best yet from team IRM. The fab four have pulled it out of the bag again. Thank you guys. :) Now what's next? No rest for the successful. :)   

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The loads got a bit of dulling down as well.

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Two weathering powder solutions (50% water/50% decal fix), first is a grungy black/brown to stain recesses. The second a cream white to simulate rain streaking and cement dust from the odd burst bag.

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Its a bit like making an omelet you have to make a mess before you can recover it and tidy up (ie break an egg). The sole bar got a judicious amount of grey/white to simulate the odd bag on the bottom of a pallet load punctured by fork lift truck drivers rushing to finish their shift of an evening in the yard.

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Just a tip. Decalfix is essential to help the weathering powder solution spread easily over plastic surfaces and avoid surface tension causing it to clump into droplets or small pools. With Decal fix 50% + water 50% the powder solution seems to spread evenly and adhere to the plastic better. Also allows reactivation later so it can be changed and reworked using damp cotton buds.

First you make a mess, then clean it up. Trying to learn how to speed this process up. I generally leave it about 45mins to semi-dry before reactivating and working it with damp cotton buds to remove most of it.

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End result after its dried

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Used a blackish/dark brown gunk powder colour first in solution to define edges and recesses, later a second solution of cream white to simulate water stains and cement dust from odd burst bag.

The load got a bath as well to dull down the white and give the bag shapes visual definition. Lovely loads on these wagons, well done team IRM. They even have pallets to if you choose to remove them from a wagon and place in a yard beside these wagons, looks great.

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Edited by Noel
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52 minutes ago, Old Blarney said:

Troops,

Would someone be kind enough to explain how one removes the - Two Bars in Bays three and four  -  The ones that were there to restrict the load height.

Thank you. 

Sure. First thing is you only need to remove one bar to get the two half loads out. Basically gently bend one using a tweezers which in effect will shorten its perpendicular length and allow one end to pop out of the little slot. It is not glued, it is a snap fitting. Same refitting it, just wedge it back into place ensure both ends snap fit into the slots. Alternatively gentle squeeze the two partition walls 1mm further apart (by flexing the plastic) and the bars should pop out with a little pressure using a tweezers

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  • 1 month later...

Reasonably content the way these got a little aged and dirty

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Next up during the week will be to have a go at these CIE containers. Just sprayed them with matt varnish which has taken the bright shine off them in prep for weathering next week.

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I finally got around to weathering one of the IRM Ballast wagons. Don't know why it took so long as these were the first IRM wagons I got back 2 or 3 years ago when they first hit the market? Perhaps it was because the natural colour of the ballast wagon model doesn't scream 'I need to be weathered'. Even more impressed with these original wagons. Real beauts. One done, 11 more to do. Have to handle with care there are so many super detailed parts on these.

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It took a while. No airbrush was harmed doing these. The load also got a little wash.

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  • 1 month later...

Halford's potential substitute. These arrived today in the post using AddressPal to get them to Ireland from UK. Will try some tomorrow and report back if they prove a suitable substitute for Halford's plastic grey primer. Made in the same factory by the same company https://jamesbriggs.co.uk I bought these on Amazon UK. Cost was slightly less than over the counter from Halford's in ROI. Brexit proof too as available from amazon.de (Germany) in Euro.

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Edited by Noel
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Thumbs up for Hycote after initial tests, seems identical to halfords plastic grey primer as anticipated (same factory). It costs less even with postage from UK and is 400ml instead of 300ml, so great value. I bought a 4-pack.

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There be painting going on. A bit of an orange parade. Parallel projects can mean overlap efficiencies. Provincial Wagons CIE 20ft container, Later generation Dutch GSV suitable for running with Mk2 coaches and a BR Mk3 respray to supertrain. For fun half thinking of doing one side of the mk3 in supertrain livery and the other side in IR intercity tippex. Vallejo mix of Yellow and Red 35:1 ratio. The mk3 is a little deeper, added a tweak more red.

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Edited by Noel
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Two more thin coats of paint today. The GSV is a different shade (more red) as it will be tippex IR livery running with Bachmann/MM mk2 non aircon coaches (ie with the opening windows). Mk3 will be super train. The fun will begin in 24/48hrs time when the masking begins.  A reasonable number of coats of the paint are needed to cover the dark grey primer otherwise it darkens the shade of orange/tan too much as a background colour. Perhaps a white primer might be better for orange livery coaches and save on paint. The one thing about this hobby is you never stop learning, especially the stuff you don't know that you didn't know. :) Its great fun

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Airbrush masks look the ideal protection against the dreaded Myley Cyrus (Covid 19).

 Re acrylic paints, Omen Miniatures now have a range out which are becoming highly regarded. Gorden Gravett recommended them to me as an alternative to Tamiya. Start up cost is quite high though - £80 for the complete set, but would be much the same (if not more) were I to ditch all my Humbrol enamels and start again. Still thinking about it!

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  • 1 month later...

If at first you don't succeed try try again, and learn from any boo-boos.

Whoops - :( I failed to adequately clean the resin body before priming with the result below when removing masking tape.

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Managed to peel most of the paint off by hand.

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Removed the first paint job, It actually peeled off by hand and finger nail scratching, brake fluid was not required.

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Then resin body thoruughly washed down using IPA to remove any trance of release agent on the body, then warm soapy water, then primed again using HyCote.

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Volla - Masking tape removed without incident. The primer had bonded with the resin body properly. Ready now for white lining and final decoration.

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Not happy with this, Tried waterslide transfers for the stripes, but found it nigh impossible to get the lines dead straight and parallel. Looks ok'ish from 1/2 mile away, but to my eyes it just screams wavey lines. I might stick to my usual reverse masking and airbrush next time. Decision pending receipt of wise council from one of the jedi nights.

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Looks good Noel difficult around the doors , I think the reverse masking method works great when it’s a single white line at the top on the Black and Tan livery which is thicker than the white line on the IR / IE livery I imagine it would be very challenging and increases the risk of small bits of the paint coming off with the masking tape . 

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I have never attempted anything like this but would it be possible to use masking tape to achieve a straight line not for painting but to slide the decal lining up against?

To be honest I think you're being about hard on yourself. It looks good to me as it is.

Edited by murphaph
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Another mk3 donor bites the dust. Could not get the window glazing out this time so had to resort to tedious masking. Avoided the hideous maskol route, dreadful stuff.

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Primed with Hycote plastic grey primer ready for reverse masking

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It kind of gets addictive after a while :)

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Redemption for the rebuilt Dutch GSV kit from IFM, after the great peeling primer disaster of two weeks ago. Had a second go at this, first time using waterslide transfers instead of reverse masking and airbrush for white stripes.

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The first attempt two weeks ago didn't end well (below). Lesson learned clean resin bodies properly using unspent nuclear fuel if necessary to ensure no resin release agent residue, and never give up. There's always a recovery route. When this is finished have two IFM Park Royal kits to start. Not so long ago I was RTR man, now finding doodling with kits addictive and therapeutic.

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3 minutes ago, skinner75 said:

Cracking job Noel!

Certainly a cautionary tale for anyone having a go at painting a resin body for the first time. 

The transfers for the white 'tippex' lines sure do work great for giving a nice crisp line alright

Cheers Skinner. I think in future I may still lean towards reverse masking. I cannot abide wavy lines nor wavy stripes. Enjoyed this kit, just grab rails, glazing and some decoration to do.

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Noel says - Not so long ago I was RTR man, now finding doodling with kits addictive and therapeutic.

----------------------------

A loud Hooray, from all kit suppliers!

Noel, thanks for your custom over the lockdown and the good use you've put the kits to. This one's terrific, too, like the others you've done.

I think that the quote below refers?

"I tell you that in the same way there will be more rejoicing in Heaven over one sinner who repents than over ninety-nine righteous persons who do not need to repent".

Luke 15:7, in case you had forgotten - Galteemore can tell you what the previous verses were all about - subject of a stunning painting by Rembrandt (now in the Winter Palace in Leningrad. 

Edited by leslie10646
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21 hours ago, leslie10646 said:

Noel says - Not so long ago I was RTR man, now finding doodling with kits addictive and therapeutic.

----------------------------

A loud Hooray, from all kit suppliers!

Noel, thanks for your custom over the lockdown and the good use you've put the kits to. This one's terrific, too, like the others you've done.

I think that the quote below refers?

"I tell you that in the same way there will be more rejoicing in Heaven over one sinner who repents than over ninety-nine righteous persons who do not need to repent".

Luke 15:7, in case you had forgotten - Galteemore can tell you what the previous verses were all about - subject of a stunning painting by Rembrandt (now in the Winter Palace in Leningrad. 

Leslie we are all flawed sinners in some shape or form, even I have supped with bogie stock and touched forbidden fruit of ultra modern mk3 stock, but if in a moment of weakness the evil one I lures me to touch a DMU, you or Jonathan may cast the first stone, the keepers of the sacred three link coupling, protectors of two axles and defenders against bogies of eternal stench, be they free running or not.

Seriously Leslie  your kits have been a great joy to work on, and I look forward to more. Totally my era, and a vaccine against imprisonment in the bogie of eternal stench. Thankfully I have not fallen victim to ‘yellow fever’ so no yellow ‘stuff’ allowed on my layout. 

Edited by Noel
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THE DEADLY SIN OF SLIPPAGE FROM THE TRUE RELIGION (STEAM)

NOEL,

Perhaps Jonathan can cast the first stone regarding DMUs -

Alas, not I, for I fell into the clutches of that Deadly Sin over twenty years ago!

Lambeg Man  of this Parish had shown me his superb AEC set in NIR-livery and such was my covetness (another Sin) that I got the address of the builder. By this time, I was working in Hong Kong after retirement and Mr Hughes, The Builder, finished my GNR-liveried set. That was followed by a four car BUT set and a dozen mahogany coaches for steam-haulage.

My sins didn't end there - a CAF set from the estimable Seamus Graham, the Bachmann IR commuter set (a 65th birthday present from some kind IRRS pals) and recently I bought yet another AEC set from Chris Dyer and Mr Wrenn at Blackrock.

Now well down the slippery slope with a silver A Class on order from The Boys and a grey B Class.

Do I sin further and buy a RPSI preserved B Class?

 

Edited by leslie10646
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On 8/1/2020 at 11:12 AM, leslie10646 said:

THE DEADLY SIN OF SLIPPAGE FROM THE TRUE RELIGION (STEAM)

NOEL,

Perhaps Jonathan can cast the first stone regarding DMUs -

Alas, not I, for I fell into the clutches of that Deadly Sin over twenty years ago!

Lambeg Man  of this Parish had shown me his superb AEC set in NIR-livery and such was my covetness (another Sin) that I got the address of the builder. By this time, I was working in Hong Kong after retirement and Mr Hughes, The Builder, finished my GNR-liveried set. That was followed by a four car BUT set and a dozen mahogany coaches for steam-haulage.

My sins didn't end there - a CAF set from the estimable Seamus Graham, the Bachmann IR commuter set (a 65th birthday present from some kind IRRS pals) and recently I bought yet another AEC set from Chris Dyer and Mr Wrenn at Blackrock.

Now well down the slippery slope with a silver A Class on order from The Boys and a grey B Class.

Do I sin further and buy a RPSI preserved B Class?

 

Now Leslie an AEC set is practically steam age, a thing of beauty, as were the But's, so some leniency from the devils with hot pokers that inhabit the bogie of eternal stench may be in order. But a CAF certainly risks eternal doom, yet the only express route to certain eternal damnation with jammed air brushes in the bogie of eternal stench is a Rotem 22k yo-yo tram. The ultimate fisher price toy, possibly even clock work, that no self respecting modeller would ever be seen with on their layout, as boring to operate as drying paint, yet economic because no points needed, no couplings needed, just an oval of track around a cot, to keep a sleepless baby mesmerised as it goes around and around endlessly at a scale speed of 200mph until the wound up rubber band runs out. A 58yo RPSI B135 is not really modern era, despite the lack of a boiler, a silver A class also a model of beauty and nostalgia gold. :) Fear not a DMU vaccine seems imminent, even for 26xx class rickety biscuit tins. A luas could be more toxic than sarin gas!

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Sin on the left, redemption on the right :) 

 

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