Noel Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 Model master at work - superb. They say leading artists have a great eye - you certainly do. Eoin, I notice you went for plasticard rather than brass for the valance sides, do you have a method to stop it potentially warping with age? Noel Quote
murrayec Posted May 30, 2017 Author Posted May 30, 2017 Thanks guys I notice you went for plasticard rather than brass for the valance sides, do you have a method to stop it potentially warping with age? Noel The only bit of the valances overhanging are the steps the rest is more than 50% glued to the footplate, and as I mentioned earlier the steps will be reinforced with brass strip behind supported off the footplate somehow?, the splashers and repairs to smokebox will have epoxy laced on on underside and there are two little air holes at the back of the sandboxes for ventilation!! Eoin Quote
Glenderg Posted May 30, 2017 Posted May 30, 2017 Noel, Be questioning Eoin on this craic, he's probably got a sketchbook bursting to the seams with ideas of how and how not to do it Something tells me he's got a mad plan before he plugs in his flux capacitor, and all we get to see is the final result. I'm really enjoying these posts, and am looking forward to the end result, but that spring detail has me slightly childishly giddy, it is that good. Richie. Quote
murrayec Posted May 30, 2017 Author Posted May 30, 2017 I never start a project without a few sketches or I sketch as I go... 'The Book' Eoin 1 Quote
murrayec Posted May 30, 2017 Author Posted May 30, 2017 ....Sketch as I go;- I scan these and save them in the project directory or if I have done a CAD drawing I insert the scan into the drawing, keeps it all together for future ref. Eoin 2 Quote
Noel Posted May 30, 2017 Posted May 30, 2017 Thanks Eoin. That work is really precise, neat and looks superb. Quote
murrayec Posted May 31, 2017 Author Posted May 31, 2017 A few more bits done this evening... Dissembled the running gear, de-greased and prepared for painting, some masking to the wheel tyres and then it will be handed over to the paint shop- I have some A bogie side patterns filled and undercoat painting is happening tomorrow. Next is repairs to a missing break shoe n lever, using the blue putty moulding stuff- the two sides of the mould were made to plastic cast a replacement, it looks like they will work but wont know until I try it. Then the chassis holes were drilled and tapped 12BA for the electrical connections for the DCC chip- I do like a chamfer on my holes, it makes them look very neat! I'll make two little PB tabs to solder the wires to. Noel, you'll like this tool- it's a sensitive feed chuck for small hole drilling in a pillar drill or mill, the smallest is .3mm. Its mounted in the machine chuck and set spinning, one then grabs that knurled aluminium disk just above the little chuck, and pushes down to drill the hole. There is a spring loaded shaft that allows travel of up to 16mm depth and that its in your hand one can feel what's happening, it can also be used for tapping- very handy for those small threads like 12 n 14BA Eoin Quote
murrayec Posted June 5, 2017 Author Posted June 5, 2017 Motor hacking tonight... The analogue connections to the motor brushes were severed by cutting the ends off the brush retaining clips, before this was done a 1.5mm hole was drilled through the clip and into the plastic motor plate- this is for the new DCC wiring connection and to retain the modified clips on the motor plate. When the retaining clips were removed to cut them, the 1.5mm holes in the plastic motor plate were tapped M2 to take the new retaining screw, and the holes in the clips opened up to take the screw. All the bits All the bits trial assembled and the PB tabs for the electrical pick-ups from the chassis ...these screws are not fully necessary, as one could always take the pick-up from the two motor plate screws that connect to the chassis and did the analogue thing... Eoin Quote
murrayec Posted June 7, 2017 Author Posted June 7, 2017 Just a small little job this evening... I had a go at casting the break shoe and hanger from the mould shown above, all worked fine, so set about fixing it on to the chassis keeper plate. This plastic is like the stuff they use to encase motors and very hard to glue to, so I decided to use a .45mm NS dowel to give it support, drilled into the plate and trimmed, with a corresponding hole in the plastic casting, roughed it all up with the fibre pen, then cyanoed (the blue one) it and forced it all together.... Eoin 1 Quote
murrayec Posted July 3, 2017 Author Posted July 3, 2017 A bit of J10-ing today.... The break shoe repair was very successfully and the wheels, rods, & chassis keeper plate are in the paintshop, under-coated and ready for the finish! The existing buffer shanks were cut off after sizing up the sprung buffers from Dart Castings, the white metal cast shanks are for a coach with round fixing plates- it's the lower one in the photo of the shanks, so I turned up my own in aluminium. This was sized to fit the existing plates on the buffer beam and fitted after the holes were opened up. They work well, may have to shorten them a bit but I'll wait until I test fit the chassis and see how the coupler works? So I then set about putting it all together, the valances n steps were glued on and a few stick on rivets added, rivets were also added to the smokebox door. The dart was made from brass rods- 1mm shaft and .5mm handles tapered in the Dremel and soldered into the cross drilled shaft. The cab handrails were fitted as per the photo of 617- .45mm NS wire and a few brass handrail knobs on the lower rails. The whistles were made up from .45mm NS wire and brass tube slid over, the washers at the base of the whistles were made from the 1mm rivet tool with a hole in the middle- these are used elsewhere on the rails n things. The sandboxes were glued on with their actuator rods and a bit of NS wire for the steam supply- I'm guessing here! The control pipes to the smokebox are .45mm NS wire with styrene washers n brass tube to make the entry fitting into the smokebox. The tank lids are styrene- two disks stuck together, the under one smaller to create an overhang. A few more bits are required- vacuum pipes, a nut on the dome, some reinforcing to the front steps, and it's ready for paint..... Eoin 1 Quote
burnthebox Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 Cometh the moment, comment the man, very well done Eoin, the detail on this is nothing short of amazing, Quote
pauldelany Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 hi there im working on a similar conversion although wont be up to your high standard i think,,,,can i ask what final color are you thinking of using paul Quote
murrayec Posted July 3, 2017 Author Posted July 3, 2017 Hi All Thanks for the great comments pauldelany I'm going to try Revell Matt 74, I was thinking darker with a Humbrol paint I have in stock;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/6265-Inchicore-Class-J10-Conversion-From-LNER-J72?p=101218&viewfull=1#post101218, but jhb reckons it's to dark so I picked up a few gerys at the Stillorgan show and 74 seems to be best- will know better when its out of the can.... Eoin Quote
Andy Cundick Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 For what its worth all my GS locos get a coat of Humbrol 27,before the grime goes on.Andy. Quote
jhb171achill Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 Hi jhb The body shell above is still in LNER black livery- not painted yet, I'm waiting until all fixups and bits are on before painting.... Here is a snippet of the Humbrol Reference Chart and a photo of the tinlet, its the middle one, the other two are for comparison- light grey and black [ATTACH=CONFIG]28021[/ATTACH] What do you reckon? Eoin The 67 (middle one) is a bit too dark, Eoin, but the left hand one too light. Something in between. If you get a decent recent shot of 186 out on an RPSI special (loads on Internet) that would show it. The RPSI folks didn't like the (authentic) grey smokebox and chimney, thus "let" them remain dirtier thus creating an illusion of these being black, or at any rate darker. This would not have been the case when operating in GSWR / GSR / CIE days - the loco was either clean all over or dirty all over. Quote
pauldelany Posted July 3, 2017 Posted July 3, 2017 hi Eoin i have just seen your total post and the paint colors,,i have a small favour to ask ,would you be willing to sell me two of your metal number boards please as there are some aspects of fine modelling that my eye sight will not let me do affectivley im living in drogheda and a member of the mrsi,,for all i know i probably know you in the real worls lol Quote
murrayec Posted July 4, 2017 Author Posted July 4, 2017 Thanks again all for comments pauldelany Those plates are spoken for, for this project and another chap. Next time I do etching I will include plates for you... My sympathies to you on your mrsi membership:) Eoin Quote
WRENNEIRE Posted July 4, 2017 Posted July 4, 2017 Thanks again all for comments pauldelany Those plates are spoken for, for this project and another chap. Next time I do etching I will include plates for you... My sympathies to you on your mrsi membership:) Eoin Murray Sailing close to the wind there Entry will most probably be restricted for further MRSI O Gauge events A letter of apology, signed by your mother, may go some way to restoring the status quo. Or buns, bring loads of buns..... Quote
murrayec Posted July 10, 2017 Author Posted July 10, 2017 Hi all The J10 now has all its bits on- vacuum pipes fixed into the buffer beam with brass split pins, period coupler irons at the front, and then to cap it all- a nut on the dome.... Stuff in the paintshop, and some under-coated, I have decided to go with Humbrol 27 following a previous post Oh and Noel especially for you;- Eoin 1 Quote
closetmodeller Posted July 11, 2017 Posted July 11, 2017 Hi all The J10 now has all its bits on- vacuum pipes fixed into the buffer beam with brass split pins, period coupler irons at the front, and then to cap it all- a nut on the dome.... [ATTACH=CONFIG]28318[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]28319[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]28320[/ATTACH] Stuff in the paintshop, and some under-coated, I have decided to go with Humbrol 27 following a previous post [ATTACH=CONFIG]28321[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]28322[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]28323[/ATTACH] Oh and Noel especially for you;- [ATTACH=CONFIG]28324[/ATTACH] Eoin Splendid, splendid, splendid. Quote
murrayec Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 Some painting done this weekend;- Grey.... Greyer... This is the Humbrol 27 matt and for the driver to block out the motor in the cab! He will be leaning with arm up on the cab door so decided to mould up a guy, cut his arm off and make a new one out of styrene to lean on the door. He will be cut off at chest height and wedged between cab side and the motor! Eoin 1 Quote
murrayec Posted July 28, 2017 Author Posted July 28, 2017 Hi All, Here's the question- On a steam loco was there a rule in CIE as to which side a red light was displayed front and back over the buffer beams? Eoin Quote
DiveController Posted July 30, 2017 Posted July 30, 2017 On a steam loco was there a rule in CIE as to which side a red light was displayed front and back over the buffer beams? There is nothing in the 1967 handbook. Looks like the actually revised the book after steam ended c. 1963. I don't have an older copy Quote
jhb171achill Posted July 30, 2017 Posted July 30, 2017 There definitely lamp codes in steam days, though I can't recall offhand the details. Must look about... Quote
murrayec Posted July 30, 2017 Author Posted July 30, 2017 Hi Guys Great to get some input, thanks I've done some searching and can only find stuff on British Lamp Codes, they discuss and display in diagrams the arrangement of lamps on the front of locos to signify types of trains, the goods they carry, and even if empty!- all white. But no mention of red lamps! I found on a forum thread the same question being asked about red lamps on a station pilot, a lengthy discussion ensued but no one could inform the asker as to which side, all that was confirmed was a loco should display a red lamp on the rear. I'm going for the right hand side facing the direction of travel.... Eoin Quote
jhb171achill Posted July 30, 2017 Posted July 30, 2017 I have an old DSER appendix somewhere and some MGWR stuff. Will look. Quote
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