KMCE Posted October 23, 2022 Posted October 23, 2022 On 21/10/2022 at 7:33 PM, David Holman said: Another aspect was how to do water - both colour and material. One option you might consider is the toilet tissue and glue solution as demonstrated by Marklin of Sweeden on Youtube which I used to good effect on the micro port layout. A somewhat better representation of the water in a port affected by waves & weather than flat perspex. Just a thought! 1 3 Quote
David Holman Posted October 23, 2022 Author Posted October 23, 2022 That looks interesting - thanks Ken. The model boat shop in Chatham Dockyard yielded a few goodies on Saturday, including some nicely printed ventilators and a likewise 3D 'lifeboat'. These have been added to the Acla, along with a bit more tidying up of the hull, ready to start painting. This is proving challenging, mainly because the model is actually quite heavy, so needs careful handling. Talking to Gordon, another tip he shared is that he never uses black when painting, so the hull of the Acla is actually a dark grey. Am using Humbrol enamels & it is nice to see more of the model emerging with the addition of some colour. 10 Quote
Mike 84C Posted October 23, 2022 Posted October 23, 2022 I would think that the boiler was in front of the wheelhouse because it put the weight of the boiler further forward, helping stability and gave more room for the engine and prop shaft behind. I'm almost certain the boiler was a vertical type which would have a smallish footprint but a higher centre of gravity. The funnel position often seemed to change when puffers were converted to diesel power 1 1 Quote
David Holman Posted October 24, 2022 Author Posted October 24, 2022 (edited) You may well be right, Mike. Various drawings below show the interior detail of two different Puffers - an early 'Vital Spark', with just a tiller and no wheelhouse, plus a later one - the Skylark. Interesting to see the berthing arrangements on the Vital Spark. the skipper had a rear cabin to himself, with a couple of berths for crew in the bow, along with basic cooking facilities. No ensuite bathrooms though! The Skylark drawing gives basic details of the wheelhouse controls, along with the arrangements in the boiler/engine room, which show the importance of weight distribution & why the funnel is where it was. Am hoping the built up forecastle on my Acla allows the boiler & funnel to be behind the wheel house! Meanwhile, much as it would have been nice to include all this interior detail, the fact that none of it will be seen means it just aint going to happen. Edited October 24, 2022 by David Holman 3 3 Quote
Mike 84C Posted October 24, 2022 Posted October 24, 2022 Thanks for posting those drawings David. Helps make a few construction details clear. One photograph in the Puffers book I mentioned does show an early puffer with just an open "wheelhouse" area with canvas "dodger" about chest high to protect the steersman! I had'nt realised most of the early ones were built to fit locks of the Forth and Clyde canal and built in boatyards at Kirkintilloch. The design is said to have originated from unpowered boats called "scows" which I presume is a local term. Quote
Broithe Posted October 24, 2022 Posted October 24, 2022 1 hour ago, Mike 84C said: The design is said to have originated from unpowered boats called "scows" which I presume is a local term. 'Scow' would be a widespread term for all sorts of boats of a barge/lighter style, from the Dutch word, but with an anglicised spelling - you'll hear it in a lot of the English speaking world - I suspect even 'schooner' is a development from it. 1 Quote
David Holman Posted October 28, 2022 Author Posted October 28, 2022 Recently added handrails to the forecastle of the Acla, thanks to Gordon Gravett who kindly sent me some spare etches he had from previous projects. Since then, have been trying to complete the general painting. Not entirely successfully as every time I think I've got everything covered, the next day I am still finding areas of primer showing through! Am starting to think that using an airbrush might be better, though the amount of masking required would still take a lot of time. However, slowly getting there, after which there is the weathering [essential to giving the model more texture], plus lettering and the dreaded rigging. Model ships, I'm finding, cannot be done quickly... 14 2 Quote
David Holman Posted October 30, 2022 Author Posted October 30, 2022 The last few bits and pieces for a few days, as I need to transfer my attentions to getting Fintonagh ready for Cultra. Always best to go through preparations and servicing a few days early - just in case! Anyway, as I'm sure most of you know, it is the little things that seem to take longest, especially when they need painting as well. So, did the four lifebelts and got them fixed this afternoon. Also shortened the mast by 3cm, as it was higher than the backscene, while the derrick's boom now has a bracket on the main superstructure to rest on. Spent the most time on a bit of lettering - though not sure if the yellow text [all I had] is correct, or indeed if Westport is an appropriate place for Acla to be registered, so it may be temporary... As already mentioned, the name is Gaelic for Achill, which seems appropriate as this is a key part of the little coaster's territory. Oh yes, there are photos of the other side too. 16 2 Quote
David Holman Posted November 20, 2022 Author Posted November 20, 2022 Frigging in the rigging No, not the name of one of the local beers produced in the Chatham Dockyard Brewery, though I could do with a bottle or three after trying to set up rigging on the Acla. Indeed, compared to a three hour crossing in a Force 9 between Cairnryan and Belfast a week last Friday, it would be a hard choice on which I'd do again in a hurry... ... and this is just a simplified version! The Langley instructions use the term "plumber's nightmare" to describe what doing the whole lot can be and looking at scale plans, am afraid I've taken the easy way out. Goodness knows what it must be like to include it all, let alone in 4mm scale! I've used elasticated thread, so that I can unplug the main mast for transport. There should be six lines [three each side, but I've only done two] from the mast, plus one to the bow and then the cabling to the derrick. Most of these lines use a type of adjustable "turnbuckle" affair to secure them to the hull. The model boat shop in the Historic Dockyard does sell working versions of these - and very nice they are too - but at £3.50 each, that wasn't going to happen. Instead, I fabricated [bodged] alternatives by flattening the end of some 1mm brass wire and then drilled holes in each end to take loops of .5mm brass wire to which I could then attach the thread. Those a 1cm squares below. To say that all of this was a bit of a faff is an understatement - likewise drilling out tiny white metal castings of pulley blocks, while threading elasticated thread through all of this was challenging to say the least. Ultimately though, it all came together [ish], as can be seen from the two main pictures. I would hate to have to rig a sailing ship! 15 3 Quote
KMCE Posted November 21, 2022 Posted November 21, 2022 15 hours ago, David Holman said: Ultimately though, it all came together [ish], as can be seen from the two main pictures Looking good David. It is a bit of a pain and the rigging does get in your way as you progress, however it is worth doing as it really gives presence to the model. Well done for sticking with it!! Quote
Georgeconna Posted November 21, 2022 Posted November 21, 2022 16 hours ago, David Holman said: Frigging in the rigging No, not the name of one of the local beers produced in the Chatham Dockyard Brewery, though I could do with a bottle or three after trying to set up rigging on the Acla. Indeed, compared to a three hour crossing in a Force 9 between Cairnryan and Belfast a week last Friday, it would be a hard choice on which I'd do again in a hurry... ... and this is just a simplified version! The Langley instructions use the term "plumber's nightmare" to describe what doing the whole lot can be and looking at scale plans, am afraid I've taken the easy way out. Goodness knows what it must be like to include it all, let alone in 4mm scale! I've used elasticated thread, so that I can unplug the main mast for transport. There should be six lines [three each side, but I've only done two] from the mast, plus one to the bow and then the cabling to the derrick. Most of these lines use a type of adjustable "turnbuckle" affair to secure them to the hull. The model boat shop in the Historic Dockyard does sell working versions of these - and very nice they are too - but at £3.50 each, that wasn't going to happen. Instead, I fabricated [bodged] alternatives by flattening the end of some 1mm brass wire and then drilled holes in each end to take loops of .5mm brass wire to which I could then attach the thread. Those a 1cm squares below. To say that all of this was a bit of a faff is an understatement - likewise drilling out tiny white metal castings of pulley blocks, while threading elasticated thread through all of this was challenging to say the least. Ultimately though, it all came together [ish], as can be seen from the two main pictures. I would hate to have to rig a sailing ship! Have a look at my RC puffer for the rigging, might be a bit clearer do decipher. 1 Quote
David Holman Posted November 21, 2022 Author Posted November 21, 2022 Wow, what a fabulous model, George! That is a ridiculous amount of detail, but then suppose in 1:24 stuff becomes ever more noticeable - right down to the toilet pan. Not sure I'm going to be chasing all that rigging, but looks like I need to add at least some now you've shown me. Fantastic work - thank you. Slapped wrist for me in not keeping an eye on other threads too. Quote
David Holman Posted November 22, 2022 Author Posted November 22, 2022 Have taken a break from the rigging to try another task I wasn't exactly looking forward to - the water. The options included: base colour covered with multiple layers of varnish commercial resin water kit papier mache, as per KCME's suggestion earlier acrylic sheet, as suggest by ace ship modeller Gordon Gravett, indeed just ace modeller In the end, decided to go for the last one, mainly because the Acla is very heavy and its mast & derrick rather fragile, meaning a need to be able to remove it from the layout for transport. So, a trip to my local Wickes DIY store resulted in the purchase of a sheet of 1.8mm clear acrylic glazing. This then needed a suitably shaped piece to fit the space where Acla sits, along with a cut out for the hull. The acrylic is similar in structure to plasticard, in that you can score it and then snap off the piece you want. However, the method isn't suitable for the complex shapes I required, so instead used a heavy duty slitting disc in the Dremel, along with a heavy duty face mask to avoid the fumes generated. I also decided to remove the wooden rubbing beams from the quayside wall, as it is easier to put these back later, rather try to cut out the acrylic to round them. Once this piece was cut and filed to shape, it was then a case of putting the Acla on it and then drawing round it to create a space for the hull to sit in. A fair bit more filing was required for this, though it turns out that a perfect fit isn't required - just the front edge, as the back is sandwiched between the hull and quay wall, so can't be seen. Also, a small gap isn't nearly as noticeable as a a space under the hull. Once the hull shape was cut out, I then painted the underside, first with a coat of Humbrol 31 [a sea grey/green], then 104 [navy blue], though the latter doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. The water is yet to be stuck down and I also need to get back to Gordon, to find out how he adds ripples to the surface of the acrylic, but for now, the Acla looks a lot better sitting in some 'water', instead of on a sheet of plywood. 17 Quote
David Holman Posted November 27, 2022 Author Posted November 27, 2022 Not a lot of progress it must be said - or perhaps that should read much messing about for little apparent progress! Following George's wonderful pictures of his 1/24 Puffer, I've been scouring them and various web pages to see what additional rigging I might include. I've also been trying to see how the ship would be moored to the quayside, plus what other bits and pieces might be found on deck for added detail. Overall though, in truth feel I'm none the wiser, so I'm throwing myself upon the mercy of the court of the More Knowledgeable! What I've done is add a third rigging line on each side of the mast, plus a short chain and hook to the business end of the derrick. Can't for the life of me work out whether there would be an extra cable to the winch [along the derrick beam], or if the hook would be connected by rope to whatever was in the hold, with just the boom going up & down? Raising & lowering the anchor is also the cause of much head scratching. On the VIC96, the chain seems to go over a large fully on the steam winch and down below deck. A Puffer seems to have an anchor chain davit, though quite how this works I again have no idea. At the moment, the mooring ropes are looped over the vertical rubbing beams, though it may be more sensible to turn up a few hefty bollards to set into the quayside. A couple of loosely coiled ropes complete the picture, along with some old tyres as fenders. Quite how many more ropes/rigging I'll add, I'm not sure. My photos of VIC96 in Chatham Dockyard show any number, the purpose of which I haven't clue - while actually doing what I have so far has been far from enjoyable! 17 Quote
David Holman Posted December 7, 2022 Author Posted December 7, 2022 A couple of distractions came my way this week. The first was the latest copy of Model Railway Journal, which arrived by post on Monday. On the front cover is a fine picture of one of Gordon Gravett's recent creations - a pair of Somerset and Dorset Colliers, one in 4mm scale and one in 2mm. I can take a [very] small amount of credit for these, after sending Gordon a photo of VIC96 in Chatham Marina, though he'd been thinking about building one for ages, while the 2mm scale version was built for another master modeller, Jerry Clifford. A bit bigger than a VIC and certainly over 30 feet longer than a Puffer, the heritage is clear to see from both. Needless to say, both models are completely scratchbuilt and stunningly good in the flesh, as anyone who went to this year's Uckfield show will testify. However, what also stands out is that Gordon has included ALL the rigging, for the mast, derrick, anchor, etc, etc. I hadn't really appreciated this at Uckfield, but now, haven't done a very limited, hamfisted version on Acla am feeling somewhat inadequate at his exquisite work. This is 4mm scale, remember - though I don't think he's done anything like as much on the 2mm version, so the man is human after all... The other distraction came from the Chatham Model Club, when I decided to liberate an old SMR model of a Sentinel shunter, to see if was possible to regauge it to 5'3. We must have had it for at least ten years, maybe more. It's a good little runner, with belt drive giving four wheel drive, so surprisingly powerful too. Seem to remember they only cost about £100 & obviously were the precursor of the current Dapol model. Why a Sentinel? Well those of you who know your Green Bible will realise the GSR bought two standard Sentinels, which variously worked in Cork, Tralee and [especially] on the Limerick Market Branch. Not out of the question therefore to think that one might have made its way to Northport Quay as the resident shunter and the temptation to acquire an [almost] ready to run loco is another of those itches that has needed scratching for a while now. Turns out that all that is needed to regauge the model is to tweak the wheels out to 34mm back to back and then adjust the pick ups so they still touch the wheels. Just as well, because the axles are very much not standard diameter, so best not messed with. The only other thing needed was to grind a bit off the back of the axle boxes, though a fair bit of cosmetic work to the body will be needed to make the guard irons line up, along with a few other improvements too. Probably best if I asked the Club if I can have it before I go any further though! I'm well aware that this SMR model is far from perfect. The wheels don't line up with the axle boxes for one thing, while best not to compare it too closely with the two Limerick shunters. Nevertheless, the Green Bible opines that it is perhaps a bit odd that GSR/CIE didn't go for a few more of these little engines, especially during the various fuel shortages, so I will not feel in the least bit guilty if this one eventually appears on Northport Quay's roster. Could make a basis for a nice little 7mm scale cameo layout too - one was tried out on the Castleisland branch, a sort of steam powered Deutz G class diesel. Any takers? The Dapol one can be got for around £100 or so, though I have no idea if it can be regauged in the same way. 11 1 Quote
Galteemore Posted December 7, 2022 Posted December 7, 2022 (edited) I think Acla looks brilliant David. Wasn't Gordon a professional model boat builder in a past life ? Love the Sentinel. I think Walsworth models do a similar kit now, and build it for those who want it, at a very cheap price - £150. That’s incredible value for a 7mm brass RTR loco. He’s very helpful and I’m sure he’d do it to 36.75 for anyone who asked nicely. Very good way to start out in 36.75 modelling….https://www.walsworthmodelservices.co.uk/product-page/sentinel-y1-3 Edited December 7, 2022 by Galteemore 1 Quote
David Holman Posted December 8, 2022 Author Posted December 8, 2022 Gordon did indeed build model ships as his day job, working for a firm that made large scale models for shipping companies and so on. I was wrong about the rigging on the 2mm model though - that is there too. I think he must have a tame spider to do it. Articles in MRJ about the ships and a beautiful model he made of a French metre gauge loco, plus numerous tributes to Iain Rice. 1 Quote
Northroader Posted December 8, 2022 Posted December 8, 2022 The NCC had a go with one of them, there’s a picture with it teamed up with a pair of sixwheeler coaches, though I fancy the idea didn’t get much further, pity, it would make a nice little branch line set. my Model is a plastikard body on top of a motor bogie from an old Lima class 33 diesel, and I might have missed some louvres off the end. I fancy a new Dapol one would perform much better. 9 1 Quote
David Holman Posted December 8, 2022 Author Posted December 8, 2022 Nice one! A job I certainly need to do is get rid of that hideous pile of coal on the 'bonnet'. Photos very much suggest they just had a loose pile of it on the cab floor. Quote
David Holman Posted December 18, 2022 Author Posted December 18, 2022 Travelling crane Time for a new project and what is [for now anyway] the last major component for Northport Quay. Right from the planning stage, I've fancied a rail mounted crane, running on its own stretch of track next to the harbour wall, its purpose being to load/unload smaller vessels that don't have the benefit of their own derrick, unlike the Acla. NPQ has another crane of course - the one I built from the old Airfix/Dapol kit, which is deemed to run out along the [off scene] harbour wall. It is all a bit fanciful, but then that is very much the gist of a cameo layout for me. In reality, NPQ should be three or four times longer and wider, but hopefully these key elements all hang together effectively. A while ago, I posted my original drawing for the crane, based on examples in both Chatham and Gloucester Docks. However, I've come to realise that it was far too big, with amain boom around 24 feet long and 20 feet high. Hence have cut it down to something smaller, as shown below: The track is still 5'3 and only a metre long, though I intend making the model at least able to run up and down - hopefully on a push button basis, so that there is something moving on the layout while trains are being swapped in the fiddle yard. Whether I'll get the rest of it working is another matter! I have bought Giles Favell's book on the subject and I guess I could add another piece of water in front of the quay wall and a small ship to go with it and items to load/unload - but not yet! Anyway, thus far, I've made a [very] simple chassis from four pieces of nickel silver, cut out with a slitting disc in my Dremel. Crude, but effective. Wheels are 2'6 'Lowmac' on a couple of Richard Chown's wagon axles from his spares box. The motor and gear box are from High Level: a 1219 and a 'Lowloader' with 90:1 gears, which is small enough to fit between the frames. It will be single axle drive, with the other axle able to float a bit to aid pick up. The other bought in item is the steam winch from the Langley Puffer, which is available separately, but has been sent to Santa, so I won't be doing the body work until after Christmas. 9 Quote
Tullygrainey Posted December 19, 2022 Posted December 19, 2022 Looking forward to this one taking shape David Quote
Mayner Posted December 19, 2022 Posted December 19, 2022 (edited) Fenit used self propelled steam cranes on the pier lines http://www.kennellyarchive.com/id/MYH007/ The Fenit cranes ran on the pier lines, but do not appear to had buffing gear or couplings for shunting wagons, I am planning something similar for Northwharf using a Jordan HO steam navvy as a basis There are a number of colour photos of the cranes in JHBs & Barry Carse's book Rails through North Kerry none unfortunately showing the "cab" end. The Fenit cranes appear to had a 'fast' hoist rope with a simple hook rather than the double block arrangement shown in the second sketch. The cranes appear to have had a fixed 'non' luffing jib supported by struts that go back to an A frame inside the cab The hoist drum and engine were inside rather than outside the "cab" to keep the engine and drum dry to prevent the hoist rope slipping. The "cab' layout is likely to have been similar to a steam navvy or the steam cranes at Chatham Edited December 19, 2022 by Mayner Quote
jhb171achill Posted December 20, 2022 Posted December 20, 2022 1 hour ago, Mayner said: There are a number of colour photos of the cranes in JHBs & Barry Carse's book Rails through North Kerry none unfortunately showing the "cab" end. I think we included the best pics (if not all!) of what Barry has, but I will check with him to see if he has anything else. I know someone else who might have something - though probably a long shot. Quote
David Holman Posted December 20, 2022 Author Posted December 20, 2022 (edited) Thanks John and JB. Have indeed looked at the photos you mention, while there is a vast amount of stuff on the internet and the real thing outside the clubroom in Chatham Dockyard. Unfortunately, most are a bit too big for my layout and I did even consider a manual powered wagon crane at one point, but in the end decided on something smaller. Inspiration came from a war game model, apparently 1:50 scale, from Arcane Models, along with some lightweight prototypes from America. All a bit hybrid, but then so is the whole layout! Am thinking the bodywork will feature a fair bit of wiggly tin. Edited December 20, 2022 by David Holman 7 Quote
David Holman Posted December 20, 2022 Author Posted December 20, 2022 There's nothing like some gentle freelancing when it comes to a bit of progress. The last couple of afternoons have seen the motor-gearbox assembled, fitted to the chassis and pickups added, along with a quick test. The motor is a 1215 - absolutely tiny for me [am more used to 1933s], ordered from High Level with a Lowrider 90:1 gearbox. Very neat indeed, though would say an essential for assembly are some tapered broaches to make sure the axle bearings and gear shafts [1/8" and 1.5mm respectively] are a nice, snug fit. Apart from that, it all seemed to go together easily. I then added four cross pieces to the chassis. One each end at the top, drilled to take an 8BA nut to fix the the chassis to the body, plus two more in the middle, to hold the motor in place. I also soldered a piece of 0.7mm NS wire to the the end where the floating/compensated axle is, so this can press down lightly on said axle to hopefully keep all four wheels in contact with the track. Pickups are 0.5mm phosphor bronze wire, soldered to a strip of copperclad glued to the outside of each side frame, with some fine wire then going to the motor terminals. The crane will only be single axle drive, but with the jib overhanging at the front and the boiler part of the cab overhanging at the rear, am hoping there should be enough weight for the model to move itself along without problems. Flushed with success, I made a basic outer chassis from some 80 thou plasticard, then drilled holes for the fixing bolts, reaming them out enough for the bolts to cut their own threads. Two bits of 'garnish' are a couple of white metal axle boxes from the spares box and four basic buffers from more plasticard. Don't tell anyone, but could only find two axles box castings, so there aren't any on the other side at the moment and these could well be different when I do eventually find some! 12 Quote
David Holman Posted December 23, 2022 Author Posted December 23, 2022 Added a bit of bodywork from Will's corrugated asbestos sheet - meant for 4mm scale, but looks ok for iron in 7mm scale. Found a piece of aluminium tube [left over from a roller blind kit], which may well do for the boiler. The 'turntable' section on the chassis is a piece of plastic tube from an old vacuum cleaner pipe. The crane can pivot on an 8BA bolt, though only for photographic posing. Overall, I see this as a crane that would have been built locally, from whatever bits and pieces were to hand, but will certainly aim to add as much detail as possible. Merry Christmas everyone! 16 1 Quote
Tullygrainey Posted December 24, 2022 Posted December 24, 2022 I'm enjoying watching this develop David. And I'm guessing it's been an enjoyable build too. I like your chassis and the Low Rider seems to fit the bill perfectly. Should be a smooth performer. I'm a fan of High Level's gearboxes. Best wishes, Alan 1 Quote
J-Mo Arts Posted December 24, 2022 Posted December 24, 2022 Merry Christmas David, and all the best for 2023! 1 Quote
John-r Posted December 25, 2022 Posted December 25, 2022 Merry Christmas David, enjoying the progress. 1 Quote
David Holman Posted December 29, 2022 Author Posted December 29, 2022 Santa duly delivered the Langley steam winch kit on Christmas Day and this afternoon played around with the parts to go on my crane. As this would like as not have had a fixed jib, have simplified the winch so that it just appears to power the single winding drum, while some hefty steel side plates will hopefully support the jib. 10 Quote
Popular Post David Holman Posted January 1, 2023 Author Popular Post Posted January 1, 2023 The last couple of photos made me realise that the winch section of the crane didn't look right, so cut down the side frames & added a pair of A frames to help brace the jib. I also realised that, even with a fixed jib, the crane would still need controls to move back and forth, and swing from side to side, as well as making the hook go up and down. Spent a fair bit of time looking at prototype photos, particularly ones of the more basic types & gradually formulated how this might be done. Rightly or wrongly, have come up with the following: A lever to control steam from the boiler entering the cylinders, including the ability to go back and forth A lever to move the main gearing from the winch to sloughing [turning] and moving the crane along. Gears for these last two are assumed to be linked by chain drive to drive the rail wheels and also slough the jib. A third lever to switch between the two above. The winch kit includes two levers, as well as a footbrake pedal, so the third lever comes from the spares box & is actually one from a signal cabin. The motor gearbox of the model needed to be kept hidden, hence the deep sides to the crane's chassis, but it seems appropriate to ensure there would be access on the real thing, so have added a couple of simple hinged covers, made from 20thou plastic. The jib itself is assumed to be two hefty girders, kept apart by steel crossbars - all plastic rod and strip on the model. The spares box came to the rescue again with a couple of pulleys for the top of the jib and to go on the winch. The bottom of the jib is held by a piece of 2mm brass rod, with a short piece of tube separating the girders here. The same method is used to keep the braces apart on the A frame. All a bit fanciful, but it seems to fit in with what photos are telling me - and none of it works, of course! This afternoon, added a water tank on one side of the cab and a coal bunker on the other, plus a mock up of the roof [not fixed yet], to try and give a better overall picture of what the model will look like when finished. A lot of dealing still needed, but it has [mostly] been good fun so far. 18 4 Quote
jhb171achill Posted January 1, 2023 Posted January 1, 2023 Absolute masterpiece as always - can't wait to see the weathering! 2 1 Quote
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