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Sulzer Kit

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robbieb

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....the lower face of the loco is faceted but above the windows is compound curved.....

 

I have to say I can't even begin to imagine the troubles you must have had to get the master looking halfway right. I have smoothed off the cab front "cap" at one end to match the other and get rid of the "threepenny bit" effect that was still there.

 

Anyone needing to fill or reinforce a resin cast/moulding could do worse than mix superglue with model filler (or DIY filler from your nearest Wigoders will work) into a paste that will stick to your workpiece and set surprisingly hard, allowing you to sand, file or carve off to the desired shape.

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Anyone needing to fill or reinforce a resin cast/moulding could do worse than mix superglue with model filler (or DIY filler from your nearest Wigoders will work) into a paste that will stick to your workpiece and set surprisingly hard, allowing you to sand, file or carve off to the desired shape.

 

That's a good tip, thanks for sharing.

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I spent several hours just looking at three-quarter views of Sulzer 101s. Eventually, it occurred to me through my alcoholic haze, that the upper horizontal line of the front windscreens is some way above the top line of the cabside windows.

 

The resin shell doesn't quite render this feature, so pencil lines were marked in:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=21991&d=1451432357

 

This is to remind me to open up the windscreens. The bottom edges might need a lift up to correspond.

 

I think my eyes are playing tricks on me, but it looked as though one end of the shell is asymmetrical. I'm going to give that end a bit of a going over with the digital callipers and the pencil....

 

Incidentally, the GA drawing available on the Resources part of the Forum is useful, but do watch for a couple of things that did not seem to make it into service life - so far I've noticed that the B101s had two-pane cabside windows, rather than the three suggested by the GA.

 

Also a minor difference in the marker and tail light boxes, being arranged White Red, White Red, instead of the GA's Red White, White Red.

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I spent several hours just looking at three-quarter views of Sulzer 101s. Eventually, it occurred to me through my alcoholic haze, that the upper horizontal line of the front windscreens is some way above the top line of the cabside windows.

 

That's an interesting observation. I'm not sure whether the upper edge of the cab window is actually above the cab side windows or not, but it does look like it's somewhat lower on the model. The thread has definitely identified how complex the design of the front end of the Sulzers might have been, CAD or not. It is probably hard to replicate this on a resin model which creates a interesting problem for my adjacent 121 thread. Will post there later. Lower edges definitely have a plinth above the cab window level.

 

Any help?

cieb108tralee61.jpg

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I have a view of 103 on the weedspray train going up the WRC at Carrowmore, and the windscreen top line is definitely above that of the cabside windows. Same goes for the photos Des provides in the kit instructions.

 

It's much more noticeable if seen from platform level instead of ground level, but try this one. The whole optical issue is driving me nuts because Des's shell is essentially right in its proportions, and it's only the windscreen apertures which I think need extra work.

 

The perceived asymmetry at one end (one corner pillar is thicker than its opposite number, and one part of the divided buffer beam appears wider than the other) is also something that needs correcting - my problem is that once I've noticed it, it won't go away until I do something about it.

 

....Lower edges definitely have a plinth above the cab window level....

 

Yes, they do - it looks like something to do with the method of sealing.

 

Your photo of B108 also suggests that the outer edges of the marker light box fairings line up with the outer vertical edges of the windscreens.

 

There doesn't seem to have been any consistency as to fitting of windscreen wipers either - some are pictured with one, others have a pair.

Edited by Horsetan
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Close does not matter, only a problem if they touch. In any case, it would be easy enough to move the two idlers up a bit to allow a bit of vertical movement of the axle.

 

Well now, I've got hold of some spare Heljan gears and gone as close as I dare....

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=22073&d=1452103513

 

The undriven centre axle does still revolve, but I'm not sure if I'd be getting away with moving either or both of the idlers above it.....

 

I think it will be possible to use this gear casing, so that means shortening Des's bogie sideframe castings to match.

Edited by Horsetan
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  • 2 weeks later...
... The cab face on the SF one looks far to flat or to quote Richie "looks like it got hit with a shovel!"

 

He was referring to the 'A class' in that famous post. :)

 

Imho, both the SSM and SF look quite good when finished. The difference may be in the kit components.

Edited by Noel
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He was referring to the 'A class' in that famous post. :)

 

Imho, both the SSM and SF look quite good when finished. The difference may be in the kit components.

 

The same for both locos then! The famous post shall be preserved for posterity as it is true and brilliant. Oh great Richie, builder of engine sheds and changer of diapers!

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He was referring to the 'A class' in that famous post. :)

 

Imho, both the SSM and SF look quite good when finished. The difference may be in the kit components.

 

The SF Sulzer took a belt of a shovel too :P it's very flat faced, but not quite as horrific as the A.

 

cheers Harry!

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UPDATE: The extra 12T gear pack is just after arriving from Hong Kong, so they'll be tried in the Hymek bogie casing later. On the face of it they look identical to the ones that Heljan themselves use, i.e. 6.9mm diameter over the tips of the teeth, 0.5MOD pitch, and may even be supplied by the same gear maker. Gear thickness is about 5mm.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=22453&d=1453844878

Edited by Horsetan
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The gears fit straight into the Hymek gear casing:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=22452&d=1453844878

 

First thing to note is that the gear mesh is quite soft, and everything revolves loosely.

 

But it's when you combine these Hong Kong cogs with the original Heljan ones, that you notice a slight difference:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=22451&d=1453844878

 

I've put one HK cog in the middle of some Heljan ones. Spot anything here?

 

In fact, the HK cog has slightly thinner teeth than the Heljan, so the mesh is a little looser and, when combined / compared with Heljan, seems to have a marginally smaller overall diameter. It is so slight, yet makes quite a difference for the purposes of the experimental Sulzer bogie, because it means that the HK gear teeth do not impinge upon the space required for the new centre axle, and we really need to reclaim as much room as possible here.

 

For anyone wanting to experiment with these generic 0.5MOD cogs, they are available from Hong Kong eBay seller "sellerbible". This particular pack cost just £1.49, and the seller does not charge for international postage, which I think is quite remarkable.

Edited by Horsetan
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Looking good. Is that john Wayne helping you there? ...

 

That's the cover of Maurice Walsh's "The Quiet Man (and other stories)".

 

The next gear type to find is the big 20-tooth one, same 0.5MOD pitch. The axle centre distances for this one work out at 7.95mm.

Edited by Horsetan
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