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scahalane's Workbench

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(updated from old site)


Here's a few things on my workbench at the moment. Its part of my long term plan to build a compacted version of Kent station Cork in various stages starting with the cement depot site.

Here's a few MIR cement bubbles that I've added some extra detail from Westy's brass etch and a few bits of my own.





Here's a few scratch build bogie cement wagon's I'm work on, the cyclinder shape was made from the tube of a vacuum cleaner in cased in plastic card.








y25 bogie's widened to suit.




Added detail.






This is based on the cement storage shed at Cork. I created the roof from foil trays cut to shape and pressed on to a Will's corrigated plastic sheet. There was a tutorial on one of the Model Rail mags and it works a treat.

The side's were done in a similar way.


Here's the jig I used to hold the foil and plastic sheet in place while pressed using a block of timber.




Painting Stage.






Here's the cement silo...still not finished hopfully very shortly now!!


Some detail I'm adding to a Silverfox a-class.


I bought this kit 2 years ago but only got around to doing something about it at Christmas. I've been building it on and off over the last 2 - 3 months and finally got it finished or nearly bar the lighting. Its my first attempt at building an MIR model and I most say I really enjoyed it. The kit itself requires a small bit of chop and change but that's where the fun lies.




After filing, sanding and general clean up of the resin body I used a blunt scalpel and ruler to scribe more visible the various doors and panels, I also continued the vertical lines from the sides over the roof space.

In figure 1: I've filed down the roof a bit on the first 4 panels from the exhaust port which I had drilled out and shaped. I glued a strip of plastic card along this surface allowing a space at both sides of it while leaving it flush with the other two roof panels. The rivets were created by drilling light indents and filling them with pva from a cocktail stick. In Figure 2: I raised the roof slightly with a piece of plastic card. In Figure 3: I cut out a small hole and added a piece of plastic for what ever that is I've no idea. The grab handle is just a piece of brass wire shaped and drilled into position. In Figure 4: I filed down the over sized vent and replaced the horn with some plastic spares and rounded piece of plastic for the antenna. In Figure 5: I cut a hole for the vents and built it out slightly with some plastic strips. I drilled out the cast resin brake wheel to add more depth to it, putting a small border around it and replacing it with one I ordered from Precision Castings, although it was a bit big and I had to file it down.




The body was coated in Halfords grey primer and after the usual sanding and filling was touched up with some Mr. Surfacer and re sanded. I drilled some holes for the main head lights and added some cut plastic pieces for the pilot lights having removed the older type resin ones. I drilled out a number of holes to suit for the grab handles etc which were made from brass wire. I used a small piece of plastic to continue the cab frontal rim around its side and a small piece of brass plate was also added here.




Various bits and bobs.




I cut out a template for the masking using tamiya masking tape.




The model was first given 3 coats of white then 1mm strips of tamiya masking tape were placed for the lining. This was then resprayed with white to fill the gaps in the tape and when dry got its first coat of orange.

I thougth the CIE golded brown shade of Precision enamel suplied was too dark for what I wanted so I mixed my own using a small bit of the golden brown with mainly precision yellow lining. I used humbrol red for the buffer section this was the hardest to mask properly.




Added dayglow panels with Humbrol orange 209 gloss and faded back with a spray of warm white.




Ready for the black coat.






Masking finally off and decals added.








Let the weathering commence: Following previous posts from the likes of George and Anthony and having watched Model Rails 'The Weathering expert' umptine times, I got stuck into my first weathering job. First off gave the shell a light mist of humbrol black to pick up raised detail. Then a light coat of Railmatch Frame Dirt.




Having let sit for 2 hours this was then rubbed off with cotton wool buds using vertical strokes leaving a build up of grime in the recesses etc. However I think 2 hours was a little too long and found it hard to remove which damaged some of the decals.




Another spray of frame dirt for the sides and underframe. Railmatch Roof Dirt for the roof rubbing back the roof edges. And a light mist of Brake Dust for the underframes.




The finished model with glazing added, Railings, wipers etc.












I also used some tamiya weathering master mud and sand for the chassis which is a Athern SD9 and soot for around the exhaust port and some of the sides.

Comments welcome, hope you like.

















Edited by scahalane
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Absolutely class work there Scahalane,

Certainly wets the appatite for the rest of us without MIR kits! Roll on the fortcoming 071's in the autumn :-) Nice weathering too. Can ya tell me where did you source the 1mm tamiya masking tape? I have a job for that. A rake of Mk3s to paint! Cheers.

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Absolutely class work there Scahalane,

Certainly wets the appatite for the rest of us without MIR kits! Roll on the fortcoming 071's in the autumn :-) Nice weathering too. Can ya tell me where did you source the 1mm tamiya masking tape? I have a job for that. A rake of Mk3s to paint! Cheers.


Thanks for the kind comments all.

Shinkansen, I used 40mm tamiya tape sliced into 1mm strips, worked fine. I think you can get 1mm tape but not sure from where.

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I still have a roll of the 1mm masking tape that Howes Models used to produce and it was always one of my favorite tapes to use as you never got any paint bleed when using it. I am not sure if they still produce it but it might be worth having a look on their website.



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I have recently tried the 1mm tape weshty suggests. I found it very fiddly and it seemed to have insufficient tack to stay in place with any degree of reliability. I have also used litho tape cut into 1mm strips. I found this much better.


One method you might consider for doing IE/IR mk3s is to paint the orange first, mask it and then spray white. Then mark 1mm away from the masked edge of the orange with the tip of a scalpel about every 5-7cm. Then use 6/10mm tamiya tape to overlap the edge of the orange masking to the scalpel marks and this will perfectly mask your white 1mm lines. Then obviously spray the black and de-mask. It's a million times less fiddly than 1mm tape and it means that there is less of a step or ridge between colours.


Hope that helps!

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Don't ever use it with water based paints or get it wet. Make sure it never sticks to your clothes because when exposed to water the red dye comes out so you'll have all pink towels!


Because it's only 45 microns thick it is super easy to cut when on the model and it has excellent tensile strength as well. I have never had it cause any damage to paint except if you didn't prime the model properly and never use it on solvent based paints that are not completely dry.

Edited by David
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  • 3 weeks later...

A few updates to my workbench. Finally got back to finishing my cement depot, nearly there just a few details and some weathering left to do. Also added some detail and weathering to the cement storage shed.

A couple of paint jobs on the go with my cement bogie wagons, bubbles and an a class.

Hope you like.

































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That is fabulous, not alone the modelling but the photography that's with it. Pin sharp, and the lighting, wow. The crow's nest shot with the 071 and bogie timbers to the left, could easily grace a rail magazine front cover. If only I could get my wrinkly tin roof , which looks like it was put together by stevie wonder,to look as well...Must have taken an age. =D



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Only for the 'Giant' box of precision screwdrivers in the background... some of those shots could pass for aerial photography of the real thing!!! Stunning work on the weathering. Liking the Silo and all the ancillery equipment that goes with. Are these kit built or scratch built?

Top stuff:tumbsup:

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  • 6 months later...

My workbench has been a bit neglected of late, due to moving house from Denmark back to Ireland, but now that the dust has settled I can get back into it again.

I finished off my Silverfox a class kit with Weshty's extra's as well as my scratch built bulk cement wagons.

They're lined up now for some heavy weathering and lighting for the a class.


a class clean2.jpg

a class clean.jpg

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'Bout time you came back.....


* then reads post *


Absolutely goddamn knock-the-slates-off-the-roof stunning. That a-class is blow for blow as good as anything i've seen out of the murphy stable, and is a feather in the ceapin for weshty to boot. Painting and decals all bang on, some of the finest work i've seen for sometime. And scratchbuilt too. Heaven sent.

Glad that you're back on form and settled. Richie.

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