Class C ECMCHAS For Silver Fox Kit.

[murrayec]

Hi

 

Thanks guys for the great comments

 

Riversuir226;- I have added you to the list, keep an eye on this thread for when its available, I only hit this project in spots here and there- but I am getting there!...

 

Warbonnet;- Yes, this can be arranged, but I recommend at least 10 units to start with and see how you go from there!

 

Eoin

[DiveController]

Here it is;-

 

 

This is a clip of a 12v electric fan test on the Class C locomotive, the motor is running from the loco DCC chip on a function button with a few resistors to bring down the speed, when complete it will have its own DCC chip which will control speed and direction.

 

Eoin

Eoin, I was just curious it that fan shifts any air or has flat blades only. I seem to remember someone drilling out an exhaust on a 141? recently as the decoder generated a lot of heat

[murrayec]

Eoin, I was just curious it that fan shifts any air or has flat blades only. I seem to remember someone drilling out an exhaust on a 141? recently as the decoder generated a lot of heat

 

Hi DC

 

Yes it blows a little, I only put a slight twist on the blades, I may twist it a little more next time around...

 

Eoin

[murrayec]

Hi

 

Noel, this one is for you

 

I had taken this video and others some time back with fast, slow, stop/start running- but somehow this is the only one I can find. If I locate the others I will post up, otherwise I will shoot it again the next time the test track is up.

 

Long curve points, short points, and double scissors at speed!! - all the points have the ECM check-rail mod.

 

The little beast will be at Bray Show on Sunday??....

 

 

Eoin

[Noel]

Thanks Eoin. If you find a clip of start, stop, crawling (ie ultra slow as opposed to low speed) sometime that would be interesting to see, but please don't go to any trouble, only if it's easily to hand. Thanks again. Noel

[Junctionmad]

Thanks Eoin. If you find a clip of start, stop, crawling (ie ultra slow as opposed to low speed) sometime that would be interesting to see, but please don't go to any trouble, only if it's easily to hand. Thanks again. Noel

 

Following on from a discussion with Noel ,, I am currently drawing up my " ultimate diesel " chassis project, ( I need it for the Sulzer)

 

One thing that has always bugged me is the lack of availability of 40" wheels for GM locos. The closest Ive seen is USA based HO 45" wheels that scale almost exactly to 40" in 00

 

Any other suggestions, The issue is Id like to use wheels with a better profile then RP 25, but proto 87 to me is wrong for 4mm track ?

 

Im going to try a CSB springing arrangement all very much in the vein of an experiment

 

 

Currently Im thinking of insulated horn blocks in Delrin with brass bearings, and using the CSB as the pickup. avoiding the need for a split chassis. even though I do need split axles

 

I was thinking of an all plastic gearbox and gearwheels ( I can CNC machine the gearboxes on a Proxxon MF50)

 

I was thinking of just driving one axle on each bogie ?, is that enough , I could decide not to spring that axles !

[Glenderg]

Following on from a discussion with Noel ,, I am currently drawing up my " ultimate diesel " chassis project, ( I need it for the Sulzer)

 

One thing that has always bugged me is the lack of availability of 40" wheels for GM locos. The closest Ive seen is USA based HO 45" wheels that scale almost exactly to 40" in 00

 

Any other suggestions, The issue is Id like to use wheels with a better profile then RP 25, but proto 87 to me is wrong for 4mm track ?

 

Im going to try a CSB springing arrangement all very much in the vein of an experiment

 

 

Currently Im thinking of insulated horn blocks in Delrin with brass bearings, and using the CSB as the pickup. avoiding the need for a split chassis. even though I do need split axles

 

I was thinking of an all plastic gearbox and gearwheels ( I can CNC machine the gearboxes on a Proxxon MF50)

 

I was thinking of just driving one axle on each bogie ?, is that enough , I could decide not to spring that axles !

 

Why? Life's too damn short, Dave.

[Junctionmad]

Why? Life's too damn short, Dave.

 

I like building things , I always wanted to develop a good diesel bogie and drive. I can short cut the build by buying in some bits of course.

[Glenderg]

I like building things

 

Proof required

[Dhu Varren]

One thing that has always bugged me is the lack of availability of 40" wheels for GM locos. The closest Ive seen is USA based HO 45" wheels that scale almost exactly to 40" in 00

 

I have been using 'Bachmann 36-017 Metal Disc Brake Type Wagon Wheels' These are 13.7mm dia, almost 40", and although they are supposed to represent wheels with disc brakes, the brake disc is barely noticeable. They are also easy to come by, and can be made to fit most axles.

[Weshty]

I have been using 'Bachmann 36-017 Metal Disc Brake Type Wagon Wheels' These are 13.7mm dia, almost 40", and although they are supposed to represent wheels with disc brakes, the brake disc is barely noticeable. They are also easy to come by, and can be made to fit most axles.

 

13.7mm = one scale inch oversize. That will do QUITE nicely.

[Horsetan]

....Id like to use wheels with a better profile then RP 25, but proto 87 to me is wrong for 4mm track ?

 

This is where you need to use the closest available P4 profile wheel. Sources: AGW, Branchlines, and - if you have all the time in the world - Ultrascale.

 

Im going to try a CSB springing arrangement all very much in the vein of an experiment

 

You'll probably have seen the CLAG site which has just about everything under the sun for CSBs, seeing as they more or less invented the modern interpretation of the system.

 

 

Currently Im thinking of insulated horn blocks in Delrin with brass bearings, and using the CSB as the pickup. avoiding the need for a split chassis. even though I do need split axles

 

It's probably safer to have split chassis AND split axles.

 

I was thinking of an all plastic gearbox and gearwheels ( I can CNC machine the gearboxes on a Proxxon MF50)

 

I was thinking of just driving one axle on each bogie ?, is that enough , I could decide not to spring that axles !

 

If you have a rigid axle, chances are that axle is the one that would make the model lurch. Only one axle driven per bogie - a total of two axles out of how many? It might be a bit underpowered.

 

If you're going to be making your own gearboxes and gears, why not try making bevel-and-spur gears? Lower rolling resistance, higher efficiency.

[murrayec]

Hi

 

Not had much time to work on this project, been tipping away at bits but nothing complete yet- though, here are a few photos of the white metal bogie sides fresh out of the mould, some cleaning up to do, make the ladders, a few pipe details, and then stick them on the motors. This should make a change to the model;-

 

 

 

 

You can see a few mods made to the mould while trying to get it to work correctly. I'm fairly happy with the results but there are a few small snags in definition so may make another mould. I'll work with these for the time being....

 

Eoin

[BosKonay]

WOW Eoin!! That looks amazing

[Kirley]

Excellent result.

[brianmcs]

those castings look great , Eoin .

Was air entrapment the main problem ?

[murrayec]

Thanks Guys

 

brianmcs,

 

Yes, air was one problem, cooling was the other- when one has a spru going to small parts the metal solidifies at the connection! I'm thinking on a differant location to fill the mould next time around, somewhere a bit thicker...

 

Eoin

[Dunluce Castle]

Looking good with the whitemetal, or pewter? Casting. How did you melt the metal, using one of the small modelling furnaces or an industrial one?

[brianmcs]

would it help to heat the mould first or is it rubber ?

 

Thanks Guys

 

brianmcs,

 

Yes, air was one problem, cooling was the other- when one has a spru going to small parts the metal solidifies at the connection! I'm thinking on a differant location to fill the mould next time around, somewhere a bit thicker...

 

Eoin

[murrayec]

Looking good with the whitemetal, or pewter? Casting. How did you melt the metal, using one of the small modelling furnaces or an industrial one?

 

Hi Nelson

 

I use a Lee melting pot, for making ones bullets you know!!

 

 

I used to use the gas stove but this machine is much handier and cleaner.

 

I've been looking at a dentist moulding centrifuge to add to the WM moulding experience, their not to expensive and would give far better castings, though only small moulds can be mounted in them which limits it a bit....

 

Eoin

Edited April 12, 2016 by murrayec

[murrayec]

would it help to heat the mould first or is it rubber ?

 

Hi brianmcs

 

Yes, when I start moulding and the pot is up to temperature I lay the mould on wire mesh support on top of the pot. I let it get very hot- cant touch it 'Hot'. This needs to be done during moulding as it makes a noticeable difference doing so.

 

I'm told 'blackening' the mould also helps but I cannot find a suppler of the material to do this

 

Eoin

[Dunluce Castle]

Hi Nelson

 

I use a Lee melting pot, for making ones bullets you know!!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23808[/ATTACH]

 

I used to use the gas stove but this machine is much handier and cleaner.

 

I've been looking at a dentist moulding centrifuge to add to the WM moulding experience, their not to expensive and would give far better castings, though only small moulds can be mounted in them which limits it a bit....

 

Eoin

Hello Eoin,

Thanks for the pic that's the exact same one that I was looking at some time ago, how do you rate it? Worth the money?

Thanks

[jhb171achill]

those castings look great , Eoin .

Was air entrapment the main problem ?

 

 

Depends on Guinness intake. ;-)

 

 

 

(Couldn't resist it!)

[murrayec]

Hello Eoin,

'how do you rate it? Worth the money?

Thanks

 

Hi Nelson

 

I find it great, as I say better than the gas cooker

 

The thermostat works and can go up to some temperature- not needed for this work. The pouring spout is very handy but its safer to use a ladle pre heated in the pot to do the pouring, no splashes. Though I do use the spout straight into the mould when I have a clen spout, it sometimes gets clogged up with dross so I made a few spikes and prods with wooden handles to clear things out- the method of doing this described in the instructions does not work very well.

 

I like that I can work with it sitting down in the workshop and not swinging around with a pot of hot metal in the kitchen.

 

Not an overly expensive bit of kit, if you have the dosh and want to do this stuff go for it,

 

There are loads of youtube videos showing its use- American though so most of it is bullet making

 

Eoin

[murrayec]

Hi

 

I got a go at setting up the white metal bogie sides, made a few ladders, break lever shafts, and a bit of bogie piping n fittings;-

 

 

The sides are held on with blu tack to get an idea of location and levels for tack soldering on, the motor out riggers are a bit to long and push the bogie sides out so a new set was made to tuck in under the body- don't want the ladders bashing off things.

 

The under tank was made of black styrene, a mould will now be made from this for white metal casting.

 

The ladders are .4mm NS wire soldered together in the same format as the real thing, small brass tube has been cut to make clevis for the break rods and fittings for the bogie pipes- soldering the ladders on is going to be fun!.....

 

Eoin

[Kirley]

Following this one with great interest.

[murrayec]

Hi

 

A post to bring this up to date!

 

The problem with the bogie side moulds is our atmosphere gets in the way! Thats why moulding guys use a centrifuge, but I have not acquired one yet. With recent problems casting the DART pantographs I tested the solution of making a very hefty pouring gate into the moulds- this works, the weight of the metal forces the air out!

 

The moulds are scheduled to be remade

 

Eoin

[Noel]

Hi

 

A post to bring this up to date!

 

The problem with the bogie side moulds is our atmosphere gets in the way! Thats why moulding guys use a centrifuge, but I have not acquired one yet. With recent problems casting the DART pantographs I tested the solution of making a very hefty pouring gate into the moulds- this works, the weight of the metal forces the air out!

 

The moulds are scheduled to be remade

 

Eoin

 

Hi Eoin, by co-incidence I had just finished re-reading this superb thread. Excellent engineering. Really looking forward to seeing this develop. I have a soft spot for the C class. Noel

[Mike 84C]

Hi Eoin,  Just got a C  class kit. So before I go down the hornby cut and shut route  how is your kit of parts coming on? It seems to have gone quiet  and thats a shame, it  looks to have such such potential.

   Mick

[murrayec]

@Mike 84C

Yes it's quiet at the moment, I did have it down from the top shelf about a week ago to review progress and keep it in my mind! There are to many projects on at the moment,  I'm not taking on any new work until current client projects are completed, then I can get back to my stuff- the C is on this list.

I could be persuaded to run off a few bogie sides, a chassis plate and maybe a battery box.......

Eoin

 

[mphoey]

On 6/30/2015 at 10:55 PM, Warbonnet said:

That's class Eoin, could've done with a fan like that today in work!

another modification for your a classes to keep you cool

 

[NIR]

On 3/2/2020 at 4:12 PM, murrayec said:

I could be persuaded to run off a few bogie sides, a chassis plate and maybe a battery box.......

I would be interested too, looks very decent.

[murrayec]

So then, I did a little bit of work on this project this evening, 2017 was the last time work was done so I have made a point of getting back to this project and complete it out!!

Preparing the body for painting, first up is the SSM detail kit side grills and window frames, bits removed from the fret and cleaned up.

The side grills come with an etch frame overlay with a diagonal brace, this brace I cut out, useing the frame only. The grill part is covered with pencil lead to stop the solder flowing into the grill and blocking the holes.

180 deg solder applied to the parts preparing to sweat solder the frames on.

Soldered on.

And cleaned up.

Sticking on the these parts with epoxy glue.

And the window frames.

Next up will be brass turned frames for the round side windows........

I have also cast up a few sets of bogie sides and battery boxes so if anyone is interested- pm me.

Eoin

 

[Robert Shrives]

Good to see  this progress , PM sent and I bet it will be a real colour!   I have used a frame as pattern for cutting glazing and will make 12 to ensure stocks for second one and choice for good fit .

Thanks for the tip on graphite to keep grills clear .

Robert   

[murrayec]

Yes Robert,

it's going to be silver,

I did the same for the window glazing as the stuff that comes with the kit is a very poor fit.

Eoin