Jump to content

Westcorkrailway's workbench

Rate this topic


Westcorkrailway
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sorry to progress again, but that footage of East Lynn shows what a fabulous layout it is. S scale, EVERYTHING is scratchbuilt. Not only that, but the locos all have working inside valve gear, while the signalling all works and with proper interlocking. All that is, except for the harbour, which has local hand levers, as per prototype AND also features chain shunting, using bollards and capstans. Have had the immense privilege of operating it twice and it is every bit as good as it looks.

 Now back to the coaches!

  • Agree 1
  • WOW! 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the snails on, I decided to run the carriages in order to speed up drying of transfers. This is to insure I don’t accidentally mess up the transfers (one of my lines looked quite poor tanks to a misplaced finger!)

 

0D7389FD-F17E-43CC-8F48-05253B3C5940.thumb.jpeg.6a7b03e16048c8d327c016557853852d.jpeg

A30 pulls through at 50 percent speed, a good comparison of the green to the railcar 2625 next door

 

the mighty A class hauls them with my older stock. I have enough lining for at least 2 more small coaches. If the hattons gensisis coaches release I may put them in this livery


 

A30 at a slightly more controlled speed with new “Laminate” coaches. Featuring all the mistakes made on my older stock! 

 

you may hear the clicking in the video and this is small bug my A suffers from. When it goes from a bend to a straight, pipes on the bogeys hit detail on the body, nothing major but I reckon after a while…..the pipe may fall off!

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Westcorkrailway said:

With the snails on, I decided to run the carriages in order to speed up drying of transfers. This is to insure I don’t accidentally mess up the transfers (one of my lines looked quite poor tanks to a misplaced finger!)

 

0D7389FD-F17E-43CC-8F48-05253B3C5940.thumb.jpeg.6a7b03e16048c8d327c016557853852d.jpeg

A30 pulls through at 50 percent speed, a good comparison of the green to the railcar 2625 next door

 

the mighty A class hauls them with my older stock. I have enough lining for at least 2 more small coaches. If the hattons gensisis coaches release I may put them in this livery

 

IMG_1071.MOV 19.45 MB · 0 downloads
 

A30 at a slightly more controlled speed with new “Laminate” coaches. Featuring all the mistakes made on my older stock! 

 

you may hear the clicking in the video and this is small bug my A suffers from. When it goes from a bend to a straight, pipes on the bogeys hit detail on the body, nothing major but I reckon after a while…..the pipe may fall off!

 

Superb stuff, westcorkrailway. Your green is more accurate than Silverfox's, as it happens! That railcar is in BR green..... but to be fair, it's not that far off, and I have to say I like their latest version of the railcar.... thinking of ordering one, actually, as they were an absolutely essential part of the passenger scene in the 1950s and early 60s - every bit as much as an ICR would be today.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jhb171achill said:

Superb stuff, westcorkrailway. Your green is more accurate than Silverfox's, as it happens! That railcar is in BR green..... but to be fair, it's not that far off, and I have to say I like their latest version of the railcar.... thinking of ordering one, actually, as they were an absolutely essential part of the passenger scene in the 1950s and early 60s - every bit as much as an ICR would be today.

As I said before, After the surgery it had to go though to get it working, I’m relatively happy with the railcars as they are (aside from the snails, as soon as I get the chance those transfers will be replaced with EDN ones)


meanwhile on the laminate front, transfers are complete and the coaches are more or less finished…and I must stay I’m quite staggered by now they turned out. I Thought I would have to wait for park royals/laminates for some decent coaching stock. These pictures don’t do justice to how sharp they look behind a 121/A class
BBCD227B-2A7D-4F95-A62E-8DF5FF733BA6.thumb.jpeg.b82e64445a58d231c21d294e8419bc58.jpeg

A877570A-0432-471D-8690-EF6595447C2E.thumb.jpeg.35911e5bb78f6df4c65b723525ece756.jpeg

The enamel paint adds some wait to it, obviously enamel makes to much colder to the touch too. The reflections give very realistic metal finish. Due the flatt glossy surface, transfers stick like a treat. I commend railtec for there transfers whom without, this project would not be possible, the only thing I’d ask is if they would flip some of the snails around and replace 4th,5th,6th,7th,8th,9th and 0th class with more 1st, 2nd and 3rd!!

 

as we can see on my “fictional semi rosslare stock based coach” the transfers had a much harder time sticking due to the bumps, something for somone with more skill and equipment then me can do a far better job, but for me is beyond passable. The average price of 1 coach including the coach, paint, transfers and all the shipping for all that stuff was 23 euro, and that only goes down the more you make as the paint and transfers I have will easily make 2 more coaches.

D42C88A1-D0FD-4CB1-933C-5D6A2C370455.thumb.jpeg.96396cd7df36dbe1ec81b13044ec2758.jpeg

 

Edited by Westcorkrailway
  • Like 6
  • WOW! 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the “Laminate Coaches” completed its newer longer term project is a go. Trying to figure out how to deal with the water tank situation on my Adams radial.

903FE20E-D321-4938-AA81-A71E95A2AECE.thumb.jpeg.631255569967755922bb736b0fb16fce.jpeg

The current plan I think is to either make it out of plasticard or to 3d print it at the expense of loosing the finish. the humps you see here in the running plant are proving to be an issue hence why I’m leaning towards 3d printing if possible

6BC7CFAC-AA98-476A-943E-3D1868994354.thumb.jpeg.db17cfb9a2a408434fbe50b73ba440a6.jpeg

I made a Card mock-up with rough but sound enough dimensions 

482D06AD-14B4-4AED-BABD-89F25E64DD7A.thumb.jpeg.0948665ba572fab05d764dabe7b9f3f5.jpeg
it makes a massive difference to the locomotive and while it would require that dreaded re-spray. It may well be worth it for the water tank, which feels much more natural 

 

92B8B793-586E-4C87-8A9E-F568A8A20076.jpeg

Edited by Westcorkrailway
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 17/11/2021 at 1:36 PM, Westcorkrailway said:

you may hear the clicking in the video and this is small bug my A suffers from. When it goes from a bend to a straight, pipes on the bogeys hit detail on the body, nothing major but I reckon after a while…..the pipe may fall off!

 

Yes, one of the first things is notice on my silver A class is that the tolerances are so tight that the bogie hits the detail. Was kinda disappointed at first but have got used to it, sort of. Another kicks out the side panel on the bogey 😕

Really nice to see some older stock such as then clerestory coaches. Badly needed but I'd settle for proper laminate stock right now

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Westcorkrailway said:

With the “Laminate Coaches” completed its newer longer term project is a go. Trying to figure out how to deal with the water tank situation on my Adams radial.

903FE20E-D321-4938-AA81-A71E95A2AECE.thumb.jpeg.631255569967755922bb736b0fb16fce.jpeg

The current plan I think is to either make it out of plasticard or to 3d print it at the expense of loosing the finish. the humps you see here in the running plant are proving to be an issue hence why I’m leaning towards 3d printing if possible

6BC7CFAC-AA98-476A-943E-3D1868994354.thumb.jpeg.db17cfb9a2a408434fbe50b73ba440a6.jpeg

I made a Card mock-up with rough but sound enough dimensions 

482D06AD-14B4-4AED-BABD-89F25E64DD7A.thumb.jpeg.0948665ba572fab05d764dabe7b9f3f5.jpeg
it makes a massive difference to the locomotive and while it would require that dreaded re-spray. It may well be worth it for the water tank, which feels much more natural 

 

92B8B793-586E-4C87-8A9E-F568A8A20076.jpeg

How about one of the WLWR tanks used by GSR & CIE on the Clonakilty and Baltimore branches. Should be simple enough to fabricate the side tanks out of  plasticard

 

Class C5 - 274 - Robinson Waterford, Limerick & Western Railway 4-4-2T - built 1897 by Kitson  & Co., Works No.3690, as WL&WR No.21 BLARNEY CASTLE - 1901 to GSWR as No.274, 1924 rebuilt, 1925 to GSR as Class 269, 1945 to CIE - 1949 withdrawn.

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Mayner said:

How about one of the WLWR tanks used by GSR & CIE on the Clonakilty and Baltimore branches. Should be simple enough to fabricate the side tanks out of  plasticard

 

Class C5 - 274 - Robinson Waterford, Limerick & Western Railway 4-4-2T - built 1897 by Kitson  & Co., Works No.3690, as WL&WR No.21 BLARNEY CASTLE - 1901 to GSWR as No.274, 1924 rebuilt, 1925 to GSR as Class 269, 1945 to CIE - 1949 withdrawn.

 

It could be done, I would worry about the height of the water tank, the Adams radials cab means that pulling this off probably would not look the best. The tank extention I intend to do is the same height. Something more similar to that of 479 and other CBSC 4-4-2t’s

C34BC253-FDB5-4179-BB1E-6210F07F5AAF.thumb.jpeg.9443e3af01fc985ba8a3366587dfe929.jpeg


FA6BDA3F-B115-4B62-A141-C6D772EA762B.jpeg.ced97f49044b41e745ff5ea9d5f96248.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Galteemore said:

Well done for trying brass! Won’t the bumps (really coupling rod splashers) be hidden in the new tanks anyway? You could probably just cut those out of the running plate and cover them with the tanks. A strip of plasticard would cover the missing bit of valance.

The current plans means that they stick outside the tank, it will be mounted to the loco via the continently square front to the splasher (you can see it in the image below, a pipe needs to be cut and that’s it) and the side of the existing water tank. the only issue then is would the coupling rods hit off the running plate…
F5478CB8-45BA-4976-AF96-B3AB904E9BD6.thumb.jpeg.ffb187d13e3be11ef5a530aee61b23fb.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A set of good quality needle files would be a good starting point for scratchbuilding/ kit building.

As Northroader stated it would be simple enough to file the crescents to go round the bumps with a half round needle file.

An alternative would be to use the chassis (provided the Radial Tank body and chassis are separate parts) and scratchbuild a body out of plasticard or even metal.

That way you can sell the loco as a Radial Tank if the conversion does not work out.

Personally I always found it easier to build something from scratch than to re-build a rtr model into something completely different.

  • Like 2
  • Agree 2
  • Informative 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try a motor aerosol primer and satin black rub down the surface with fine wet and dry before spraying, you will achieve a similar finish to a rtr loco. 

My biggest step in modelling was when I stopped brush painting locos and carriages about 40 years ago🤣 took a lot of practice both modelling and painting but I never looked back.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good advice there ! Little tricks to help the finish are also :

1. warm the can in the hot press for a while before spraying 

2. never stop or start spraying on the model - sweep over the model with the paint coming out and stop spraying when you’re off it - avoids paint runs and drips

3. Two light coats always better than one thick coat ! 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Galteemore said:

Good advice there ! Little tricks to help the finish are also :

1. warm the can in the hot press for a while before spraying 

2. never stop or start spraying on the model - sweep over the model with the paint coming out and stop spraying when you’re off it - avoids paint runs and drips

3. Two light coats always better than one thick coat ! 

I was amazed how much better the finish was when I put the can in a warm water bath (not having a hot press). Totally changed the consistency. 

By the way my (German) missus once remarked that 'hot press' sounds more like an implement of torture than somewhere to make your towels nice and fluffy lol.

  • Funny 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forget scratch building for time being, I’ve plenty more years to learn that….for now I’m back to basics as ever since re-painted my LNER coaches into CIE green they derail every lap! The theory in my head was 3 coats of enamel paint had fecked up the centre of gravity. so with 10 5c coins 
1CC45721-5E02-4646-BB52-D67734C1C41B.thumb.jpeg.824a7c51c1b430ef4aee48a74907a5bf.jpeg

And 6 10p coins 

F0921904-7AFF-4F07-8444-73FCEF511B5A.thumb.jpeg.ea83c5f1566142fa3fbf2f00316915c3.jpeg
 

with help with masking tape, the coaches have stayed on the track for 15 minutes, success 


many ways back to the topic of spray painting models. Right now I going great with the brush but I understand enamel paint is not going to take to well to an Adams radial….or even a bandon tank some day! 
 

now I have done some spray painting years ago. 1 coat and no primer! it’s not the best job but at least I’ve some handle on it 

A4916A3C-1DA2-4449-8A66-95B3A0147EC6.thumb.jpeg.a746dcb83615df1b28fa0e1f82da6249.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/11/2021 at 7:47 AM, murphaph said:

I was amazed how much better the finish was when I put the can in a warm water bath (not having a hot press). Totally changed the consistency. 

By the way my (German) missus once remarked that 'hot press' sounds more like an implement of torture than somewhere to make your towels nice and fluffy lol.

Yeah I always imerse my rattlers in a saucepan of warm water before a paint job, makes for a world of difference.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim McGeown of Connoisseur Kits also suggests ensuring the brass is warm and dry. I follow his guidance of sticking my brass models in the hot press for a while along with the can and it’s worked. Although as an Englishman he calls it an airing cupboard …..

Edited by Galteemore
  • Like 1
  • Informative 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/11/2021 at 7:47 AM, murphaph said:

I was amazed how much better the finish was when I put the can in a warm water bath (not having a hot press). Totally changed the consistency. 

By the way my (German) missus once remarked that 'hot press' sounds more like an implement of torture than somewhere to make your towels nice and fluffy lol.

Same for the pots of Enamel, Always heat them up a tad.

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Work has started on the cb&csr 4-4-2 loco painting. After letting my paint have a sauna I’m the hot press, as many suggested
 

64E9E624-C1ED-40AC-873B-E16AC923994C.thumb.jpeg.a3dba5c020392132a2780ac67a25893b.jpeg

The first and possibly only necessary coat due to how heavy the paint is, has been applied (the sides will need a second 

 

B1A3A0F6-8EAF-4FDC-AF68-19ADD0C7A468.thumb.jpeg.ba71c645a1b5e56401cca8d9bfb7aa0d.jpeg


I have decided to go with the brass sides i already had as they pass my 2ft rule, and considering they now are going to colour match the rest of the locomotive, It may well look better


E867136C-A202-4B3D-AC3F-02FDAA2F9950.thumb.jpeg.92ef1bf2ecf8535046915ed0b81448b7.jpeg
 

decals will be made from some of the bandon tank decals I don’t intend to use from my Studio scale models kit, I can actually make 479 out of these (even if I reserve 470, 464 and 463 the only 3 Bandon’s I would make)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

78A54187-83E0-4627-B699-35B4A2C50CE2.thumb.jpeg.c8e3b102779167fdcc747ba7fd005956.jpeg

Next step, decals. After sacrificing “467” and “469” from my SSM kit the 479 was made, it was hard applying these due to the fact the bandon tank decals are made to not be cut apart and separated into different numberals

100DC272-9F33-4359-A87F-C5EB32C280D8.thumb.jpeg.54c3c8901810873fd5ff131e3295b499.jpeg
 

B9DB909F-A34E-4A3E-B88F-674502EE7901.thumb.jpeg.c68d28730c1b581070a4acf99d303709.jpeg

 

the other side is a bit mothballed so I’m going to need to improve it a bit in the meantime (has more to do with the fact I used glue to fit it to the side of my loco!)


4193031A-44B3-403A-93CF-9BEABB04DE54.thumb.jpeg.d8df1a20ab872497771335ba05325ed1.jpeg

I’ll also need some red paint as the front buffer beam has a decal of the origional southern running number and  it needs a new front buffer decal anyway.

 

“At least it has the Irish feel to it”

183CEDD3-C405-4C91-83D1-8B374D8F8CC7.thumb.jpeg.93bc5b5c065b9dca34c184c0e5c23bd2.jpeg
 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use