Jump to content
murrayec

murrayec's Projects

Rate this topic

Recommended Posts

On 6/12/2017 at 11:57 PM, murrayec said:

I hung the Scot cab roof this evening...

 

I wanted the roof to be removable and devised a plan to hook it in there with some brass noggled strips. The back end of the cab sides did not line up with the roof, the kit relies on the roof to support these when glued on...

 

So a .5mm thick curvy frame was cut out and filed up n soldered in

FSO-160 IMAG3114.jpg

 

FSO-161 IMAG3115.jpg

 

FSO-162 IMAG3118.jpg

 

FSO-163 IMAG3117.jpg

 

The noggled strips were cut from .28mm thick brass 40mm long, the noggel was achieved by sandwiching the strip between two strips of .5mm brass, one on one side and the other on the other with a 1.5mm gap between the bending edges, taped together and scrunched in the bench vice

FSO-164 IMAG3122.jpg

 

The noggel

FSO-165 IMAG3124.jpg

 

The roof was marked up with the strips in trial position, then the roof was scored with a knife, ditto to the brass strips after a good clean with the fibre brush and the lot was epoxied with a little bit of cling film around the cab wall top so that only the brass strips stick to the roof

FSO-166 IMAG3126.jpg

 

FSO-167 IMAG3127.jpg

 

I'll leave that for the night and see how it worked in the morning

 

Eoin

Eoin,

 

What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some lovely work being done on this thread, a true master craftsman at work .Well done Eoin

2 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Eoin,

 

What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Eoin,

 

What do you use to Cut the cab frames out with? . Some nice work there m8. Just reading through the whole thing thread now and enjoying it.

 

Hi George, if you mean this bit?

59eb807d7b90c_FSO-161IMAG3115.jpg.24db547b129f77f1177d4933f282acee.jpg59eb807d76b0a_FSO-160IMAG3114.jpg.93a6edbdd215f816ad63f3a66f9daba0.jpg

....with a piercing saw by hand, with a very fine jewellers blade

Eoin

Edited by murrayec
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

flipping heck by hand!! Nice one, Must look into getting one of those Saws then. Tks 

It can be worth getting a saw with an adjustable frame, then broken blades can still be used.

big_piercingsaw_frames.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, Georgeconna said:

Ah yes I remember using them as my Dad had them in his tool Inventory, Probably tried cutting wood with them!!!

There are fretsaws about, intended largely for wood, mostly taking pin-ended blades.
719510_1299588048_z.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used one of these saws for 25 years on the aero modelling side 

IMG_3509.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Broithe said:

There are fretsaws about, 

Whoops, coping saws I meant - sometimes I just can't cope...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Noel said:

I used one of these saws for 25 years on the aero modelling side 

IMG_3509.jpg

OOOH! not for metal - please nobody try metal on one of these;- or ouch time will be had!

Eoin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Eoin,. Have to say you work and skills are on a completely different level,. fantastic thread. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, murrayec said:

OOOH! not for metal - please nobody try metal on one of these;- or ouch time will be had!

Eoin

I know :) Lite ply, spruce, balsa

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Some work has been going on the Scot build;-

The boiler and footplate are getting their final components,

5a7798fee4f01_FSO-186IMAG3555.jpg.e924cf9b55cd439d269731ecef7bb58f.jpg

the boiler is bolt fixed to the footplate so it can be removed from the footplate for painting both and lining the boiler- far easier to do if they come apart.

5a77990010b74_FSO-187IMAG3556.jpg.729e8d90b3cff90614f8ebb68b634f49.jpg

Footplate detail- lubricators, exhaust pipe casing n stuff. The casing required major filling to get it to sit in under the smokebox snuggle in. Thats one side done, the other to go, then all the little pipelines in PB wire. When in place and with the boiler handrails installed I'm ready to start painting......

5a779901689c6_FSO-188IMAG3558.jpg.d74f3d2fe5f2e5d365758f467ef4d72d.jpg

Wheel crankpin upgrade was decided, Mr Mundy's Heavy Duty Crankpins were acquired, a nice little set of brass pins and round head NS screws out front to finish. The wheels have to be drilled out and the pins are retained by a brass countersunk screw sunk in the back of the wheel.

5a779903a0349_FSO-189IMAG3613.jpg.1d86ac3577bc08327608f887c24bf4c4.jpg

Filling down the crankpins to a smidgen above the rods

5a779905898b7_FSO-190IMAG3614.jpg.8ac5e011614653340505e219e26dc185.jpg

Test fitting the drive wheels, crankpins, and rods. Bogie truck and pony truck assembled- some problems with the crankpins!! The front wheel crankpin screw was fouling the connecting rod- by the thickness of the screw head, so all apart again

5a779909236eb_FSO-193IMAG3628.jpg.ef0e837fc1d6ad2e6fc0dcdebd6fc11a.jpg

I modified the crankpins by turning down the middle collar- I had a feeling it was a bit fat. I also turned down the screw heads for the front wheels to get the max clearance behind the connecting rod. The top ones in each photo are the modified

5a7799064b55b_FSO-191IMAG3659.jpg.2d235750e20564929fd0d8da9f1a2a63.jpg

5a77990707c72_FSO-192IMAG3660.jpg.185b54cceba05141e7f89d60357ea53e.jpg

Then assembly again, final assembly this time.....

5a77990b0c820_FSO-194IMAG3663.jpg.4c9b8f97f021217e20b44c0fb7ae897d.jpg

5a77990cb82a9_FSO-195IMAG3662.jpg.b4aad78a3f270b9cc445e231fe44ad70.jpg

The crankpin mod works- its very tight though

5a77990ea63ea_FSO-196IMAG3664.jpg.92df018e7a0b03d4bfc638e8cd6f021c.jpg

5a779e4572fa9_FSO-197IMAG3661.jpg.8acc8dc9af484727b864fc5855ddb956.jpg

Nearly there for a test run.......

Eoin

  • Like 5
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work as usual. you hadme worried for a bit when I seen 'Scot' I thought Royal Scot and wondered why it is apple green and has a extra set of wheels!! Touch of Demensia!

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sublime and an object lesson on chassis building. You WILL be taking the thing apart and re-assembling it several times during construction.

Even the best kits require some fettling, while the worst can be the catalyst to scratch building. Indeed, am inclined to think that there is less fettling with a scratch build - though you do spend more time making bits of course!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys

I agree David, scratch building is less fettled, I think its because it's us designing and making the parts as we go and not a chap at a drawing board who will never actually build the model he designs! Thats not throughout the kit designer industry, but I have had some major problems with kits, and also, read about it.....

Eoin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Flying Scot tender chassis

All cleaned up and ready to go, spent a few hours removing the cusp and getting things all straight again

5a7b7f50c7c02_FSO-198IMAG3665.jpg.e466b58fe211c9ba43554c9a3b3115e5.jpg

Out with 100watt Iron, 180deg solder and sizzled some flux

5a7b7f52c39b2_FSO-199IMAG3666.jpg.a8cf56f460ff2e36056ba1b5f7b674d2.jpg

I sussed the axle bearing issue- the two centre bearings are over sized for the bends. In the previous build they had been installed in the wrong place!

5a7b7f54deaa1_FSO-200IMAG3668.jpg.72b9e63119449deacc92e3a3948f6b8d.jpg

Jigged up and ready to solder, 180deg again in at the back of the bearings

5a7b7f570168e_FSO-201IMAG3670.jpg.eea9283622f2d5e83bf27d2ee340d932.jpg

Bearings done and underframe stuff soldered on with 70deg solder after the brass was thinned with 180deg solder

5a7b7f5c8af8f_FSO-204IMAG3675.jpg.85c15641b49c291522c3ef49d3f86768.jpg

Wheels on and break gear test fitted ready for soldering

5a7b7f5ab97a9_FSO-203IMAG3674.jpg.c06811f24b6b2abe970bc3ac66f1431e.jpg

FSO-202 IMAG3672.jpg

Wheels off again and all brass areas to take white metal pre thinned with 180deg solder

5a7b7f5dc9dd6_FSO-205IMAG3677.jpg.88f54d1938a3ff9de1db6256909dacd8.jpg

Same on the break cross rods

5a7b7f5f60f5d_FSO-206IMAG3678.jpg.1cb5b2c0a36af0ae55283578e79cd843.jpg

Wheels back on to position the break shoes for 70deg soldering, I decided to not solder the break pull rods on, as there is 2mm tolerance between the pull rods and the wheels and I cannot see any way in getting the wheels off if their soldered on. They will be epoxied on after painting is complete.

I did use the pull rods to get everything lined up for soldering and this is a photo of the set-up

5a7b7f617e507_FSO-207IMAG3679.jpg.f20dc5d1e1330de0644d54092282d285.jpg

 

Soldered up

5a7b7f63969d6_FSO-208IMAG3685.jpg.e13765b006709fd104d6f014109fce58.jpg

and a good wash

5a7b7f65888b4_FSO-209IMAG3686.jpg.c1a09cb873789f8d6afa64fb9e474a8c.jpg

A bit of a sand blast and ready for painting.....

Eoin

 

 

Edited by murrayec
  • Like 2
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, popeye said:

You are a real craftsman. =D

He sure is, with a fast 85 degree learning curve.  Great ability to adapt and learn practical ways around engineering challenges.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for great coments

I started on the upper tender stuff on the Flying Scot, a lot of cusp removal from the brass parts and sized up everything to plan it out. The upper tender section will be removable, I reckon this is better for painting and it allows disassembly if problems occur.. it also allows the tender inside to be accessed if one wants to install anything at a later date

Working out the system to assemble the tender structure without using the footplate, the plate will be fixed to the chassis detailed above, so then the plastic structure and all the bits assembled on it will be removable....

5aa97b1f32fe5_FSO-210IMAG3689.jpg.4d7ebc6a5152b3f526a384ca99df2a33.jpg

Lots of little bits required two evenings cleaning up

5aa97b2139f82_FSO-211IMAG3690.jpg.0767dcddd3a85269d733f38f9ede476b.jpg

All the set up work is now complete on the footplate parts of the loco and now getting ready to stick things on

5aa97b230931c_FSO-212IMAG3722.jpg.75ccddaec4c441a2a196f32831a1d73a.jpg

Lubricators, atomizers, and .4mm PB wire pipework setup to go on the valve chests on the footplate- a lot of little holes drilled...

5aa97b24996f8_FSO-213IMAG3723.jpg.a259d07d4639364a0e3f1d6bf71a9e08.jpg

Valve chests ready

5aa97b262d1e3_FSO-214IMAG3726.jpg.094a47324478193482861507aeb861d3.jpg

5aa97b27e3af2_FSO-215IMAG3727.jpg.041a1649e1acf016aefe46ceb70a2e42.jpg

Firebox washout plugs installed and boiler handrails test fitted and ready to be stuck on

5aa97b2969011_FSO-216IMAG3725.jpg.e38e3b25408909e06b72de70718f7485.jpg

A hold up again as the parts to support the break steam pipe that runs from the smokebox back to the cab are missing- should have some split pins that should work- off to look see....

Eoin

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1
  • WOW! 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cant believe it! not a split pin suitable in the workshop. So set about making up a few out of .8mm brass wire

Clamped down in the vice on a piece of hardwood and filed the wire flat on one side

5aada90a75e99_FSO-217IMAG3729.jpg.e424bac94d0d43f81cdf490411f31671.jpg

Then measured off 5 lengths, bent them over the PB wire steam pipe, cut them, and then pinched each with a pliers to form the eyelets 

5aada90c5b574_FSO-218IMAG3730.jpg.e5b9a617e2663ee6e38a9dc8b569c762.jpg

Split pins

5aada91070d16_FSO-219IMAG3731.jpg.c703a32ec9a4ac0f226e8ead2e7c660e.jpg

With that done I started to fit the lubricators, atomizers, and pipes- this photo shows the steam pipe installed with the split pins

5aada917847dd_FSO-223IMAG3734.jpg.134c8f9b6ac379c61f7fb0bb0a2718e2.jpg

Hand rails completed with wrap around over smoke box door rim, lubricators, atomizer and pipes installed on this side

5aada915e5271_FSO-222IMAG3735.jpg.0d78404207a8da2c954a82d2a5194207.jpg

5aada91423780_FSO-221IMAG3736.jpg.bd762662b3a318c62bf4d9d4a0754f9b.jpg

All complete and very close to start painting- small bit of straightening up and a bit of filling here n there

5aada9126baa4_FSO-220IMAG3737.jpg.87eff829ede2d11280a20f4a51ce5d60.jpg

Its great to get this job completed, I wasn't to sure how the pipes were going to work with my plan of being able to remove the boiler from the footplate for painting. It does work but some of the pipes will have to be installed after painting- otherwise it worked out Deadly!

Eoin

 

  • Like 7
  • WOW! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just impeccable work Eoin, the level of detail is second to none. I suspect that most would omit the idea of adding pipes to their build to make life just that little bit easier. 

One of the greatest things about this hobby is that there are experts in every field creating works of art the rest of us can only drool over. This morning I’m drooling. 

Paul

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Travail Incroyable"

Translated = Incredible Work

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the larger scales, if it is there, you are duty bound to model it, especially if it can be seen from a foot away. Hence bigger stuff not really a bonus for the eyes - you can include so much more and it is what gives bigger models more character.

Nice trick with the home made split pins, Eoin. Another one to remember!

 As for the loco, it is really coming together and each fresh bit of gingerbread makes it that bit better. Am also drooling again 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all

So with the Bray Fair cancelled on Sunday I had a bit of spare time- Flying Scot upper tender body time!

With my plan on being able to remove the upper body I cut some waste brass sprue to make two brackets to hold it together on assembly, straps cut, scored for folding, and M2 bolt holes drilled..

5ab042bcb5ff4_FSO-224IMAG3738.jpg.b6c543b80af92c93df2a725b1d07f08e.jpg

All folded up and setup to mark holes in footplate

5ab042bf55e1f_FSO-225MAG3740.jpg.46c641ff570138140501d7e00d4c9a38.jpg

Captive M2 nuts about to be soldered on, using the excellent modellers tool to hold the nuts in place- cocktail sticks!

5ab042c190854_FSO-226IMAG3742.jpg.8195f1413b94e14dfaeaa7db737cf9e8.jpg

All soldered up with 180deg solder, soldered the folds also for a bit of rigidity

5ab042c3d0050_FSO-227IMAG3743.jpg.918549e8e924e50a8497813e6bc3e852.jpg

M2 holes in footplate were countersunk for the screws

5ab042c5a781c_FSO-228IMAG3745.jpg.b98ed3c09d6a1dc3cca911b4e36b5ab6.jpg

After a few minor adjustments the upper body was installed and the unit was epoxied, making sure the footplate was not glued

5ab042c98a660_FSO-229IMAG3747.jpg.0f745a6d97ecc36b83e6cd54a0796da8.jpg

While that was setting I started on the tender main frames, these needed the rivets embossed out first, the kit has half etched marks for this

5ab042cb9c610_FSO-230IMAG3750.jpg.e867217f94ce5f0895980ae1540de44e.jpg

This is a very handy rivet embossing tool which I made a new MDF table for, and I get to try it out for the first time here- its hard to hold a part in place with nothing to rest it or your hand on when using the punch, it works really well

5ab042cd43ac0_FSO-231IMAG3748.jpg.a8324dc69fe47a8fb24bcf3186b66b22.jpg

Nice little embossed rivits

5ab042cecaf5c_FSO-232IMAG3749.jpg.0a21d0a36100aa1b3e17ebbdf049d5ef.jpg

I then soldered on the frame steps, steps rivet detail, and the axle box keeper plates with 180deg solder

5ab042d156ca7_FSO-233IMAG3751.jpg.d0ca8879e425499cfeec7d92ffbc7aed.jpg

All cleaned up and frames now ready to be fitted to the footplate

5ab042d41d893_FSO-234IMAG3753.jpg.c65b2f9e3e53084a2c7e11571e374263.jpg

5ab042d6c012b_FSO-235IMAG3754.jpg.32757f0a68f54545e9c848efad8206d2.jpg

Eoin

 

  • Like 1
  • WOW! 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sublime Eoin. :tumbsup: You must have spent more than a few hours in Bolton streets engineering labs when your were supposed to be attending architecture lectures all those years ago. :) 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just superb. That’s a neat little tool for rivet making. Would it work on plastic too?

Paul

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a GW Models rivetting tool that is similar and that certainly works well on plastics up to 20 thou (0.5mm) thick.

 The MDF table takes it to a new level though. Must remember to make one before I start my next brass kit.

So much to enjoy and learn on this thread. Thanks Eoin!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Scotsman is starting to look good Eoin,  Look forward to seeing the loco when she is finished.   

You can always give it a test run on the Swanbourne Vale Light Railway as a visiting loco.  :)

 

Regards

John

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

Terms of Use