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Sale at Marks Models

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Posted (edited)
I know, I know, but I just could not resist having one. There is something militaristic and utilitarian about that battleship grey livery. My excuse is it is allowed haul RPSI specials with Cravens and a filthy mk1 GSV. :)

No, she's a little beauty alright. Actually I got 7071 only because I got 0078 the other day (as if that made any sense, but anyway…). I know you love the baby GMs but I was running my new 0078 the other night and she a lovely runner too, comparable I would say and I have not got her on DCC yet!

 

I probably wouldn't buy a 141 right now (only because I finally completed my collection with the final recent acquisition of 187) but I say that and I'm pretty sure that I actually would. I have most of the 071s (on the way) now after the Marks sale and may give the pocketbook a rest for a while.

 

No 201s but a single LIMA River Flesk (which I purchased for sentimental reasons). When I ran her it immediately reminded me of the sound of old ringfield motors in train sets as a child and reminded me how far these models have come mechanically. I daren't bring up aesthetics here

Edited by DiveController
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Posted
The grey models have the grab irons still on them richrua, and some people were unhappy with this inaccuracy. Hence slower sales

Can you explain which grab irons should not be there?

They are a little more expensive and I suspect probably approaching a price that not every modeler will pay for unless its your modeling era...

Posted (edited)

The real grey 071's dont have grab rails below the main headlights whereas the Murphy rtr grey 071's do.

2014-11-16 16.40.59.jpg

Some of the lads do very good repaints with the modifications which in my opinion look better than the rtr grey ones as they are more accurate.

Edited by Riversuir226
Posted

Ah interesting, never even noticed that. Doesn't bother me. It more than passes the 'duck test'. Despite the difference, for my own personal taste, the cab ends actually enhance the visual look of the model version with the grab rails (ie above and below the headlight). I've never even travelled behind one of the grey 071s, nor even seen one up close, but I just love that battle ship grey livery as a one off model.

 

Imagine it hauling some of the military model stock that sold between 1964 and 1970 (ie WW2 25th anniversary merchandise). :)

Posted
The real grey 071's dont have grab rails below the main headlights whereas the Murphy rtr grey 071's do.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]19017[/ATTACH]

I too have sinned :)

IMG_5276.jpg

THanks for that, Tom. Never even noticed so maybe with Noel on this one. Lovely model, may take a wire cutters to the handles;)

 

Incidentally, why were they removed? H&S wouldn't allow anyone to climb higher than three feet hence no longer required?

Posted

The only mod I'd like to make is take the yellow flash on the front down a shade. IR painted two shades, a rich deep yellow flash and the bright dayglo yellow as on this model. The latter may be safer, but the former is a better visual colour match for the grey body.

 

Deeper yellow

Irish-Rail-0117077-IMG_0553.jpg

 

Bright yellow

maxresdefault.jpg

Posted

Those grab handles will come off with a tweezers/flat faced pliers easy enough. It would also be a good opportunity to square off the rounded yellow panel and respray a shade deeper of yellow. A nice little project actually.. :-)

Posted (edited)
Can someone run through the functions of all the connectors and pipe work on the front of that loco , there seems to be more then usual

 

Same as usual. The vacuum brake hose top middle. The red hose is the air brake pipe, the yellow the air brake main reservoir and the green is for air brake balancing when running in multiple with another loco or hauling a failed loco.

 

UK locos just have one red and one yellow hose for some reason, don't know why they don't have the second yellow or green hoses.

Edited by Railer
Posted
Those grab handles will come off with a tweezers/flat faced pliers easy enough. It would also be a good opportunity to square off the rounded yellow panel and respray a shade deeper of yellow. A nice little project actually.. :-)

 

I think the yellow panel is ever so slightly too deep on the model too. There should be a slight gap between the bottom of the headlights and the top of the yellow panel.

Posted

Heres my two 7071 done by Grahams resprays & 7088 done by http://www.wonderfulweathering.com

 

Hi RS. Yes, I thought the all grey livery might benefit from a bit of weathering to help the walkways and side rails stand out a little more from the body colour. Would be very interested to see the weathering on those two if you had a sharper image (i.e. the photo above is out of focus). Thanks. Noel

Posted (edited)
The only mod I'd like to make is take the yellow flash on the front down a shade. IR painted two shades, a rich deep yellow flash and the bright dayglo yellow as on this model. The latter may be safer, but the former is a better visual colour match for the grey body.

 

Deeper yellow

Irish-Rail-0117077-IMG_0553.jpg

 

Bright yellow

maxresdefault.jpg

I know it's hard to standardize the lighting or control the weather, Noel, but the photos cannot be fairly compared with the first in shade and the face of the second loco in 'bright' sunshine from the top right of the photo. These could easily be the same shade of yellow given the very obvious dissimilarity in the grey shades alone. Didn't even know there were different shades of yellow on the front of the grey 071s but hard to appreciate that from these shots, although latter definitely lighter

Edited by DiveController
Typo
Posted
Same as usual. The vacuum brake hose top middle. The red hose is the air brake pipe, the yellow the air brake main reservoir and the green is for air brake balancing when running in multiple with another loco or hauling a failed loco.

 

UK locos just have one red and one yellow hose for some reason, don't know why they don't have the second yellow or green hoses.

I often wondered what they were for and need to file that away because I'll never find you post in this thread when I forget again. Thanks!

Posted
Hi RS. Yes, I thought the all grey livery might benefit from a bit of weathering to help the walkways and side rails stand out a little more from the body colour. Would be very interested to see the weathering on those two if you had a sharper image (i.e. the photo above is out of focus). Thanks. Noel

 

Even the bit of exhaust dirt on the roof breaks up the grey, as well as making the model more realistic looking, of course.

Posted
I know it's hard to standardize the lighting or control the weather, Noel, but the photos cannot be fairly compared with the first in shade and the face of the second loco in 'bright' sunshine from the top right of the photo. These could easily be the same shade of yellow given the very obvious dissimilarity in the grey shades alone. Didn't even know there were different shades of yellow on the front of the grey 071s but hard to appreciate that from these shots, although latter definitely lighter

 

Hi Kevin, Yes understand and fair point, I am aware of lighting differences and the effect white balance can have on colour in digital images, but trust me on this, the yellow on those two locos are quite different colours. :) Noel

Posted
Hi RS. Yes, I thought the all grey livery might benefit from a bit of weathering to help the walkways and side rails stand out a little more from the body colour. Would be very interested to see the weathering on those two if you had a sharper image (i.e. the photo above is out of focus). Thanks. Noel

 

joys of mobile phone photography ;)

Posted
It's working anyway. 077 has sold out and is now gone for good. So much for getting more IE 071s for renumbering and weathering.

 

 

Got the last 1 out of Hawkins St today - like the old days seeing the model being removed from the display case and placed into its box.

Posted
Got the last 1 out of Hawkins St today - like the old days seeing the model being removed from the display case and placed into its box.

 

It was actually still in stock online and still is, they emailed me saying that sometimes during stock shifts between stores it can cause items to appear out of stock for a few hours and then they come back up on the system. Managed to order another one during the week myself.

 

Hopefully this sale will move things along for the next models and not too much of a financial hit is moving up the chain.

Posted
THanks for that, Tom. Never even noticed so maybe with Noel on this one. Lovely model, may take a wire cutters to the handles;)

 

Incidentally, why were they removed? H&S wouldn't allow anyone to climb higher than three feet hence no longer required?

 

You can pull them off Quite Easily with a Tweezers.

Posted
How hard is it to remove numbers from Murphy locos for a renumbering project?

 

I think just a cotton bud and some white spirits with a bit light dabbing does the job, I've never done it myself.

Posted
I think just a cotton bud and some white spirits with a bit light dabbing does the job, I've never done it myself.

 

Cotton bud and a little surgical spirit rubbing gently, be very careful not to rub to hard as it will start to remove the paint also. I've used this on numerous renumbering projects. If your still unsure try it on an old body first to perfect your techniques. TDR

Posted
It was actually still in stock online and still is, they emailed me saying that sometimes during stock shifts between stores it can cause items to appear out of stock for a few hours and then they come back up on the system. Managed to order another one during the week myself.

 

Hopefully this sale will move things along for the next models and not too much of a financial hit is moving up the chain.

THat's the second time in several days. It's still there but there may not be a third restock. If you really want it, I'd BIN!

Posted
How hard is it to remove numbers from Murphy locos for a renumbering project?

 

I've read on here somewhere that a little nail varnish remover do's the trick, again as said with cotton buds

Posted
Cotton bud and a little surgical spirit rubbing gently, be very careful not to rub to hard as it will start to remove the paint also. I've used this on numerous renumbering projects. If your still unsure try it on an old body first to perfect your techniques. TDR

 

How does one put the replacement numbers on? Hand paint, spray paint with stencil, or use transfers? If the last two where can they be sourced?

Posted (edited)
How does one put the replacement numbers on? Hand paint, spray paint with stencil, or use transfers? If the last two where can they be sourced?

 

These guys do everything number and logo wise.

 

http://www.studio-scale-models.com/Transfers.shtml

 

Up to date with the latest numbers so as new slate grey 117s roll out for real these guys can have the full EVN numbers ready to go, just drop them a mail.

Edited by Railer
Posted
How does one put the replacement numbers on? Hand paint, spray paint with stencil, or use transfers? If the last two where can they be sourced?

 

Noel, Studio Scale Models or RailtecTransfers both supply the transfers. Links to their sites are on the bottom of the main IRM page under Manufacture tab.TDR

Posted
Noel, Studio Scale Models or RailtecTransfers both supply the transfers. Links to their sites are on the bottom of the main IRM page under Manufacture tab.TDR

 

These guys do everything number and logo wise.

 

http://www.studio-scale-models.com/Transfers.shtml

 

Up to date with the latest numbers so as new slate grey 117s roll out for real these guys can have the full EVN numbers ready to go, just drop them a mail.

 

Thanks Guys. I'm just not sure which is the most successful or preferred DIY method: "Hand paint, paint with stencil, or transfers?" especially with early black livery 141s (e.g. B141). I didn't see any transfers on SSMs web site for the black baby GMs with the 'B' prefix. The factory numbering looks like paint rather than transfers.

Posted

I think 99% of repaints are done with decals. However, the varnish and other mediums you use before, during and after applying the decal will have a huge affect on the end result.

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