murrayec's Projects

Glenderg · September 1, 2016

This is possibly one of the finest engineering /design crossover threads on this forum. The attention to detail is astonishing. The bodging of rivets to make them look right, even better.

But, I think it says something pretty disappointing when this thread has arrived amongst the Belmond fervour, and only a few respond.

This should be inspiration to any modeller on this forum.

David Holman · September 1, 2016

An extraordinary project continues to inspire. Superb workmanship.

Jimbo325ci · September 2, 2016

Detail is incredible. Some very impressive skill being demonstrated

Noel · September 2, 2016

Class engineering - very impressive

Kirley · September 2, 2016

But, I think it says something pretty disappointing when this thread has arrived amongst the Belmond fervour, and only a few respond.

This should be inspiration to any modeller on this forum.

Agreed but maybe you are assuming there are a lot of actual modellers on this Forum.

Weshty · September 2, 2016

Just seeing this now. Only stuck for new superlatives to express my admiration. Here goes...

Wowzers

My giddy aunt

Clucking bell.

Jayzuss.

In summary Eoin, you've done a spectacular job, and all bespoke and handbuild. Magnificent.

Bar set very high indeed. The chassis is someting else though. It looks like it has some heft in it.

Railer · September 2, 2016

Agreed but maybe you are assuming there are a lot of actual modellers on this Forum.

I'd be one of those. I'm more of a collector, runner. I know I have no model building ability, the only thing I'd even consider to attempt would be one of the SSM 42ft flats, I won't even talk about actually trying to paint.

Massive piece of work here BTW.

Warbonnet · September 2, 2016

I'd be one of those. I'm more of a collector, runner. I know I have no model building ability, the only thing I'd even consider to attempt would be one of the SSM 42ft flats, I won't even talk about actually trying to paint.

Massive piece of work here BTW.

If you make a 42ft flat you'd be well equipped from the experience to make other stuff thereafter I reckon. Good place to start.

ttc0169 · September 2, 2016

Superb job there well done Eoin.

murrayec · September 2, 2016

Hi All

Thanks for the great comments, I get all excited myself when stuff comes together on the bench, but when posting it up and hearing others great comments is the icing on the top...

Thanks

Eoin

murrayec · September 24, 2016

Flying Scot Springs, breaks, steps & stuff...

Springs were next, these are fiddly etched laminations that were cleaned up and sweat soldered with 180 deg solder. Some cusp filing is required in areas before soldering- as once stuck one cannot get a file in at these areas.

One of the spring assemblies has been modified with the horn block arm cut off! this is required for the suspension modification I've done to the kit, 3 more will be cut as per....

The break castings were cleaned up and found to be poor castings on one side, the mould was off centre when cast and caused a step in the casting. When offered up to chassis and wheels, the castings were fatter and touching the flange of the wheels, a slight mod was done with the edge of a file to thin the shaft and allow clearance for the wheels.

All done and ready to go onto the chassis after I set up the electrical pick up arrangement. The long break push rods where mangled in the previous build and took quite a bit of work to straighten out- but it worked!

Next was missing part making- the rivet detail on the driver steps, and a tiny footplate support were missing for one side and these had to be made

The trick to punching out fine rivet strips is to stay away from the edges of the sheet, this minimises distortion and helps to give the proper shape, once punched the strip is cut to close size, it's flattened, and then filed to size. A light filing on the top of the rivets give a good match to the etched ones from the kit- the middle strip is the home made one!

murrayec · September 24, 2016

Rivet detail soldered on the steps with a quick clean up

Rear chassis spring and horn block detail was next, these white metal castings were all out of shape and quite hard to get flat. They were prepared for sweat soldering onto the chassis with 140 deg solder on the brass and 70 deg solder on the white metal. The horn block covers were soldered with 70 deg solder.

To minimise spreading solder all over the brass I marked up the location with a pencil, solder will not freely pass over a graphite line so is handy for this job. The parts are sweated on to the brass by using the iron on the inside of the chassis and not near the white metal, if more solder was required the 70 deg was used.

All done with the tender coupler installed

Eoin

Edited September 24, 2016 by murrayec

Noel · September 24, 2016

Eoin, you are a master model engineer.

GSR 800 · September 24, 2016

Simply stunning, the attention to detail, and the perfection of the whole thing is ridiculously Good

Dave · September 24, 2016

Eoin you are the master! That's the dogs danglies! And you bringing it to Bray tomorrow?

murrayec · September 24, 2016

Eoin you are the master! That's the dogs danglies! And you bringing it to Bray tomorrow?

Thanks lads

Yep it will be at the Bray Fair tomorrow, although it is dismantled!....

Eoin

Mayner · September 25, 2016

Eoin

I like our clamping arrangement for holding small parts during soldering, is it part of a resistance set up or something you made yourself?

enniscorthyman · September 25, 2016

Impressive work.

burnthebox · September 25, 2016

Eoin, that's pure craftsmanship, craftsmanship of a higher scale, your attention to detail is astonishing, I can coly look & admire your skills, my hat off to you sir.....

Noel · September 25, 2016

Hopefully will get to see it in Bray later

Kirley · September 25, 2016

This is not a workshop thread, it's a fantastic tutorial on how things are done. Thanks for the tip on the pencil line stopping the flow of solder.

murrayec · September 25, 2016

Eoin

I like our clamping arrangement for holding small parts during soldering, is it part of a resistance set up or something you made yourself?

Hi John

It's home spun....

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2119-Some-useful-Tools?p=92980&viewfull=1#post92980

Eoin

Noel · September 25, 2016

Saw this in the flesh today and it is even more amazing in reality than the photos convey. Eoin congrats on a superb piece of engineering. Your talent surpasses a master watch maker.

murrayec · November 24, 2016

Hi

Thanks guys...

So then next step is to stick on all the springs, break gear, electrical pick-up board, and bogie truck centring springs. The road springs are laminated with 180deg solder so they will be stuck to the chassis with 145deg, so hopefully nothing will fall asunder...

....and that happened! the chassis is a big heat sink and the soldering station was a bit slow on the regain- loads of heat into the spring components but the heat ran away through the chassis, time for the Big Boy! a 100 watt Weller, no problem now with heat running away, the join was instant. Though one has to be careful....

Road springs and horn block keepers on and a little clean-up required, I stuck small bits of tape on the bearings inside and out to protect from the flux, phosphorous is very corrosive and I'd like to keep it away from them

All cleaned up, break gear being test fitted, and the pick-up board being worked out, wiper type pick-ups will be used and the front bogie truck centring spring will be mounted on the front of this board. The board will be M2 screw fixed to two threaded brass angle plates soldered to the frame spacers. There is also a central slot for the gearbox drive gear to stick through

Front truck spring assembly soldered up, .6mm NS wire spring with two M2 screws to fix, M2 nuts captive soldered to board for this mounting. The break cross rods have been thinned with 145deg solder in prep for soldering into the WM break blocks with 70deg solder

......

murrayec · November 24, 2016

.....

WM Break blocks were soldered with 70deg solder to pre thinned chassis holes with 145deg solder and all the break rod assembly soldered up

Test assembly of the front truck spring, one can just make out the loop on the truck that this wire will go through to spring the truck- this unit goes in after the truck is mounted to the chassis

Rear truck .6mm NS wire centring spring going together, this spring will also put slight down pressure on the truck

Just about complete and ready for the paint shop, footplate supports and front wheel guards yet to go on but holding off on that one until the wheels are off and the whole is about to be painted

Eoin

Noel · November 24, 2016

Eoin that is astounding model engineering. Interesting that the trailing pony is fixed but the axle is articulated.

Horsetan · November 24, 2016

Common way to deal with Cartazzi trailing trucks, keeping the frames fixed in place as they should be.

Kirley · November 24, 2016

Great pictures of fantastic work Eoin.

David Holman · November 25, 2016

Oh dear. I seem to have started dribbling again. Fab-u-lous.

jhb171achill · November 25, 2016

I'm dribbling too.....

murrayec · November 26, 2016

Hi

Thanks guys for the great comments

David & JHB

Me to! I have been looking at it sitting on the coffee table for the last few days!!

I think we need one of these;-

Eoin

David Holman · November 27, 2016

Not a bad idea! The pouch could be especially useful for catching small items of modelling before they are lost on the floor. Maybe some fine mesh at the top, so all the 'liquids' can still be drained off by the handy little tap I've just noticed. Suspect a whole body suit might be best for for though - I have a habit of wearing much of what I work on, eat, drink etc...

murrayec · February 22, 2017

Today was set aside for some Flying Scot work, the first day back at this project since 2016.....

So I set up the electrical pick-up wiper arrangement before the chassis was dissembled and prepared for the paint shop. The wipers are .4mm NS wire soldered to a brass angle bracket screw fixed to the buzz-plate, I decided that the wipers would be removable- this makes installing easier as the wipers have to go over the chassis, outside the springs, under the break push rods, and spring reach the rear of the wheels.

The components, two of the brackets are removed from the plate. The centre wheel wiper pick-ups are bent in a U shape.

This is the setup for soldering the wipers to the brass brackets.

All soldered up with 140deg solder.

Copper clad removed for electrical isolation, also removed where the screws pass through to mount the Buzz-Plate to the chassis.

This is the wobbly wheel, as you can see its a dodgy screw, it should be flush with the face of the wheel hub- it's off centre and wont tighten down evenly in the taper of the wheel.

With the wiper thing sorted the chassis had a few final delicate items soldered on- footplate outriggers and front wheel guards, now ready for a blast and etch prime.

and.....

murrayec · February 22, 2017

The smoke box door was missing the rivet detail on the hinge straps, this shot is a setup to decide the size and number- I went for 11 on each strap.

Out with my Nutter.

These little guys are stuck on with Humbrol Clear.

Brass turnings to replace the missing Dart from the kit, just needs a little touch with solder and it will be glued on after the painting is done.

Eoin

murrayec · February 25, 2017

A few shots of the chassis, trucks and bits prepared for blasting and painting. Little wood dowels are fitted into the wheel bearings so that the bearing does not get sandblasted and ruin the running surface, these are also left in place during painting.