jhb171achill Posted April 10, 2014 Posted April 10, 2014 That eejit deserves to be knocked off his bike, Eoin.... Congrats on your ongoing work on the loco. Mad, as you say! Quote
murrayec Posted April 14, 2014 Author Posted April 14, 2014 Refer to Volume 1 at; http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2346-murrayec-s-Projects?p=34623&viewfull=1#post34623 Hi All I have been developing up a baseboard layout drawing for the Seapoint Martello Tower, its not yet complete but I thought I would share some images on the layout because its based on the 'Modular Baseboard System' see thread; http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2465-Modular-OO-Layouts?p=37052&viewfull=1#post37052 The layout runs across three 1200x600mm boards, two transition, and one feature boards, though the transitions have some of the feature on them. The two main line tracks move to the back of the feature board to allow for Seapoint features and the tower to fit, incorporating 4th radius curves to do this. This design complies with the Modular System. As you can see I have a lot to sort out, this is why I prepared these renderings from the drawing- sometimes its easier to see things in a mass model than line drawings. (no, heirflick that's not a religious dancer) The Tower stands to high but I don't have enough space to get the ramp over the Ordinance Bridge longer to lower the tower. I may look at lowering the embankment and bridge- though the bridge is set up for catenary! Another idea is to have a front extension to the board to give a bit more space but dont really want to do this, I'd rather stay within the 600mm module. As I have said before, this is a truncated Seapoint layout but I think there will be no doubt as to the scene location..... murrayec Quote
Shinkansen Posted April 19, 2014 Posted April 19, 2014 Very nice 3d graphics there murrayec. Really helps visualise the finished idea. What software did you use for it? It'll be a very unique setting, your DART model will look right at home Tom Quote
murrayec Posted April 19, 2014 Author Posted April 19, 2014 Thanks Tom Its done in Autocad, just solids extruded from the drawing with autocad colours. Autocad has a basic rendering facility, its not to complex if you don't get into mapping materials, playing with lights and cameras. 3D Studio Max is the one for that... I cant wait to start cutting foam and get the boards set up... murrayec Quote
murrayec Posted May 27, 2014 Author Posted May 27, 2014 Refer to Volume 1 at;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2346-murrayec-s-Projects?p=47583&viewfull=1#post47583 Hi All Here are a few shots of the bell-cranks, drive rods, cross-heads, and cross-head drive rods, - etched in .5mm brass, just out of the acid bath. It took me a few goes to get it right, its a fine balance of the right coating of photo resist, the correct UV exposure, and a strong mix of acid! Some detail has been lost on the drive rod ends but these parts are good enough to work with assembling the test model, I'll make adjustments to the print tooling and acid mix next time around. The parts were etched from both sides so that the main drive rods and bell-cranks have a bit of 3D, the drive rods are of two components which will be sweat soldered together to give thickness. Also etching from both sides reduces the edge cusp- the parts stay close to size, so less edge cleaning up with a file. The magic etching formula was used in the print tooling for parts over size and all holes are etched under size. Next on the list is the bell-crank main bearing housing, when that's complete the drive and crank system can be erected, the motor installed and a test run of the system!! murrayec Quote
Glenderg Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 You Sir, are a lunatic. That's my way of being so impressed I'm lost for words. Pure madness/goodness. Quote
Dave Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Eoin, that is stunning. Love the 3D detail. Looking forward to the next installment. Quote
Warbonnet Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Brilliant stuff Eoin, enjoying watching this develop. Can't wait to see the finished product in action! Quote
Broithe Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 You Sir, are a lunatic. It'll be the effects of the exposure to all the acid.... It been great to watch the evolution in this thread. Can there be anywhere further to go? Quote
murrayec Posted May 31, 2014 Author Posted May 31, 2014 Hi Guys Thanks for the great comments Hey Broithe, here is something further- does this count?;- A friend makes these beauties and I assist with hole drilling, decals, ideas and holding! The Cigar Box Guitar's he makes are deadly, they look great and sound the part. The fuzz box is his own design and he calls it 'Atom Fuzz'. Check out 'Helium Dog' on facebook if you want to see more. murrayec Quote
murrayec Posted May 31, 2014 Author Posted May 31, 2014 Hi I have been asked by a member to show how sweat soldering is done, I will post a few photos and explanation when I'm doing the Hibernia drive rods. But in the mean time here is a link to an over-view to soldering which may help, it includes a bit on how to sweat solder;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/3132-First-brass-kit-GNR-brake-van?p=49476&viewfull=1#post49476 murrayec Quote
murrayec Posted November 2, 2014 Author Posted November 2, 2014 Refer to Volume 1 at; http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/show...ll=1#post34623 Refer to Volume 2 at; http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2346-murrayec-s-Projects?p=49204&viewfull=1#post49204 Hi Eventually, tonight, I got to stick on the hardware & tackle on the cannon! This should have happened last week for the MRSI show but just could not find time to do it. The cannon is turned from a piece of aluminium rod with a brass cross-piviot-bar set through below the centre line of the barrel. Brass straps are pinned over the pivot bars on each side and into the gun carriage to hold the cannon in place and allow it to pivot. The blocks are made from lolly-pop stick, with brass strap stuck on and a hole drilled through for the ropes, and black paint for the pulley edge!. The blocks are a tad to big- so maybe I'll have another go at them in the future. The 'racer' as the tracks are called is painted styrene card, this area needs a bit of fettling as I had not allowed for the card thickness and the gun is a bit high. There are 4 little brass wheels in brass inverted stirrups on the underside to wheel the carriage platform around the racers. The big pulley at the back of the carriage platform- for pulling the gun back, is turned from aluminium and rotates on a .5mm cross shaft. Dress pins, NS wire hoops, brass straps, and brass square washers are used for the ironmongery. I got hemp rigging rope from a boat model shop, .5mm for the ropes and .25mm for the flagpole sheet (that's a rope in English). I cannot tighten up the ropes as the anchor rings are not yet glued in, the painting and stone work has to be completed so they'll be coming out again. I really enjoyed putting this together, it reminded me of my boat modelling days- also I had loads of time to imagine the guys way back on duty in the tower and how they would crew the gun on top. It must have been a mad job- though shooting the cannon would be fun! Just need a few cannon balls, powder keg, a ball stuffer, barrel cleaner, and a few cleats to tidy away the ropes and the cannon instillation is complete. Eoin Quote
Dave Posted November 2, 2014 Posted November 2, 2014 Wow Eoin, that detail is exquisite. Makes such a difference. Quote
Georgeconna Posted November 2, 2014 Posted November 2, 2014 Saw this at the Show in Dublin, Cracking stuff and the Dart Amazing... Quote
murrayec Posted November 26, 2014 Author Posted November 26, 2014 Volume 1 = http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2346-murrayec-s-Projects?p=47583&viewfull=1#post47583 Volume 2 = http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2346-murrayec-s-Projects?p=50850&viewfull=1#post50850 Hi All Just got a chance today to solder together the bell-crank, tie rods and drive crank for one cylinder on the Hibernia test model, I'm setting up one side of the bell-crank drive system to check sizes and work out the bushings, bolts fixings and the cross-head construction. Here is a few shots You can see how they were soldered together here;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/3869-Soldering-Tips-by-murrayec?p=59978&viewfull=1#post59978 Eoin Quote
murrayec Posted November 30, 2014 Author Posted November 30, 2014 Hi All I got the bell-crank components cleaned up and assembled to show it off at the MRSI O Gauge Guild meeting today, both were good fun- thanks guys for the invite and been looked after with sandwiches and tea. Good to meet Warbonnet to. To my amazement the whole assembly worked, a few small adjustments will be needed but it proves the drawings, and it will actually work! The bell-cranks are fixed with a brass BA screw through crank-pin bushings housed in a milled aluminium bell-crank head mounted on the chassis behind the steam cylinder. The drive rod to the wheel is BA bolt fixed, this bolt runs under the chassis to the inside bell-crank and the rod is fixed between on a brass bushing. The tie-rods are steel riveted onto the bell-crank ends and BA screw fixed to the cross-head- this allows for the whole assembly to be dismantled when in the service shop or the painting department. The location of the drive pin hole on the Slaters wheel had to be adjusted by 1.8mm toward the hub and the existing filled with epoxy. The cross-head rods are 1mm steel rod, so is the con-rod with broached out BA bolts to replicate a big end- if I can call it that? With that test done its now time to consider the brass chassis, the weight on the plastic is distorting things a bit, the only thing holding this back is the furnace & boiler! I would like to mock them up on the plastic chassis first to see what implications they have on it. Here are a few shots of the work- the gaffer and crew are also been introduced! Eoin 1 Quote
Dave Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 My god Eoin that is stunning. The detail is so crisp and engineered beautifully. It's going to be a cracker when it's done. Quote
Warbonnet Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 Good to see you Eoin and had a grand auld chat. It's a great model to see in the plastic, cant wait to see the finished article! Quote
BosKonay Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 A masterclass in miniature engineering! Wow! Quote
Kirley Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 I just shake my head and marvel at your skills. Quote
heirflick Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 jaw dropping stuff! imagine how stunned we will be when its complete! Quote
closetmodeller Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 QUOTE=BosKonay;60326]A masterclass in miniature engineering! Wow! You have excelled yourself and this is only the protype stage. Quote
murrayec Posted December 1, 2014 Author Posted December 1, 2014 Hi All Thanks for the great comments, you support really helps, especially for encouragement on the late nights in the workshop. Eoin Quote
David Holman Posted December 21, 2014 Posted December 21, 2014 Very impressive - will join the queue following its progress! By the by, Agenora models are soon to release a kit of an Aveling & Porter geared engine [7mm scale], with full working motion, flywheel etc. Looks right up your street. Quote
murrayec Posted December 31, 2014 Author Posted December 31, 2014 Hi David Yes an interesting looking engine. Life is strange- I was looking through a railway book the other night and noticed this engine in the background of a photo, its fly-wheel, circular door and narrow cab caught my eye! Then I see your post today... Eoin Quote
Horsetan Posted December 31, 2014 Posted December 31, 2014 .... here is something further- does this count?;- [ATTACH=CONFIG]13464[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]13465[/ATTACH] A friend makes these beauties and I assist with hole drilling, decals, ideas and holding! The Cigar Box Guitar's he makes are deadly, they look great and sound the part. The fuzz box is his own design and he calls it 'Atom Fuzz'. Check out 'Helium Dog' on facebook if you want to see more. Do they go up to "11"? Quote
murrayec Posted January 7, 2015 Author Posted January 7, 2015 Hi Horsetan I passed on your message to Steve, he chuckled and recited the whole scene from the movie, needless to say but I will - 'watched a lot' Eoin Quote
murrayec Posted July 17, 2015 Author Posted July 17, 2015 (edited) Hi I'm converting an Oxford Daf 105 Skeletal Trailer Freightliner to the Faller System and here's my take on it, with help from friends and the internet. After getting the Faller Truck conversion kit and sizing things up it was decided to make some replacement parts for the front axle as the Faller system is for HO- 6mm scale difference in width! Also the Oxford Daf weighs far more than the plastic HO Faller trucks and the plastic axle beam would take on a droop over time. In the photos part of the Faller beam is shown in front of the new fabricated axle beam to give an idea of the scale difference. There is a 2.5mm diameter difference between Faller and Oxford wheels so it was decided to use Faller throughout. Also, install the load carrying axles in roller bearings to reduce friction and help with the weight (not in the kit) including the trailer, the drive axle is mounted in copper bush bearings supplied with the conversion kit. The side photo shows the scale of the wheels, and without the Oxford wheels in the view- sure it's grand! Lumps of metal were removed from the chassis, cut-outs were made for the steering through the sides, the reed switch (the brakes), and the horizontally mounted 3V motor and drive gear. A brass plate was made to support the front axle and to hold the front of the chassis in place;- the Oxford chassis has free air where the axle beam needs to mount! ... So far so good;- Motor goes in next -that needs to be worked out!, and some mods need to be done to the cab for the battery, then a bit of wiring and.......... Eoin Edited July 18, 2015 by murrayec Quote
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