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Daryl's Workbench

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Posted

Top class model, well done. There is nothing worse that the last stage of varnishing going wrong, but sometimes it can

help with weathering even though it was not planned. :-bd

Posted

Thank you al for the great comments, it's really appreciated! :-bd

 

I've just glued the glazing in using Rocket Odourless, which is safe to use on glazing as normal superglue would haze the windows.

 

My next project will possibly weathering an 071, and just about to research the Plough Brake Vans, to go with the upcoming ballast wagons. I know SSM do a brake van kit, but I'm put off by a brass kit, an my soldering skills are hopeless, so I'm looking to convert a BR Shark. Might not be 100%, but hopefully will look the part.

 

Thanks again for the comments :D

 

Daryl

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi All,

 

Sorry been a bit quiet lately, but I have managed to weather a 201 and a 071. After searching Flickr for reference photos, 201s seemed pretty clean in 2005/2006, with the usual frame dirt underframe and exhaust staining. The 071 turned out slightly dirtier than I planned.

 

27468464766_b995615289_c.jpg

 

 

Must dash for now, if anyone is interested I can write up my processes in the next few days :)

 

Cheers

 

Daryl

Posted

Hi All,

 

Thank you for the comments, much appreciated! :tumbsup: I must apologise I forgot to take step by step photos, so I keep nipping back to te models to take photos of certain bits! These are the materials I used,

 

26910873093_58c7c7549d_c.jpg

 

 

Humbrol Maskol

Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0002 White

Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0004 Smoke

Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0007 Dark Earth

Humbrol Weathering Powder AV0008 Rust

Humbrol Metalcote 27004

Phoenix Precision P977 Rusty Rails

Railmatch 402 Frame Dirt

Railmatch 403 Roof Dirt

Railmatch 412 Weathered Black.

AK Interactive Fuel Stains

 

 

I weathered both locos at the same time, as I like to reduce the amount of cleaning. If both models are having the same colour applied, then may as well do it at the same time, although I will explain both locos separately. Both models were dis-assembled as much as possible. For the 201, the body simply unclips at the four corners, and the bogie frames pull away. The 071 was a pig, with only the centre body lifting away, but the fuel tank does unscrew which does help. The cabs and bogie side frames are attached with wires, so were left in place.

 

The fist stage I did was mask the windows with Maskol.

 

27484548896_c065034b3b_c.jpg

 

 

Looking at the 201, they do seem pretty clean. I try and look at 'patterns' in a locos weathering, certain time periods, depots, workload etc. all affect the weathering. Looking at this photo of 210 from hurricanemk1c shows a fairly clean bodyside, and a flat frame dirt underframe, with a few darker patches on the underframe equipment.

 

16079859777_130347a5af_c.jpg

210 at Limerick, August 2010 by Kieran Marshall, on Flickr

 

 

Looking at the roof, that only has a exhaust mark at the No1 end, that is quite sharp, presumably where washing plants only reach so far.

 

16347175245_8f8e5bbaa7_c.jpg

205 & MK2s on 1625 Heuston-Waterford at MP17 01-May-07 by metrovick, on Flickr

 

 

Staring with the body shell, the roof was masked up to create the edge of the exhaust stain. I didn't press the edge of the tape down, but let it raised slightly, so the edge wasn't crisp. The exhaust stain was made up from Railmatch 412 Weathered Black, with a few drops of the Humbrol Metalcote mixed in. The paint was airbrushed on, wafting on along the roof, until the desired effect is reached. The masking was then removed and the lower edge was treated with a waft of Railamtch 402 Frame Dirt, just enough to take the sheen off the model.

 

27243254990_1efd231336_c.jpg

 

 

Turning to the chassis, the wheels were carefully airbrushed with the frame dirt square on, to reduce the amount of overspray on the wheel treads and pickups. I then sprayed the fuel tank and the other bits with frame dirt, making many light passes from different angle to ensure there were no clean bits showing. To create the darker patches, I mixed Frame Dirt with a bit of Roof Dirt and Metalcote, and brushed on by hand following the patterns in the photo. Finally, a small amount of AK Interactive Fuel Stains around the fuel filler, streaking down and out to give it a slight wet look.

 

26911641913_51f33e258e_c.jpg

 

 

 

Looking at the 071, they all seem to have a oily fuel tank, which catches the end of the bogies, and dark staining down the bodysides.

 

15099890759_de7517548f_c.jpg087 & MK3 PPull on 1325 Heuston-Limerick crossing the Curragh 21-Mar-08 by metrovick, on Flickr

 

 

On the front, the exhaust extends down the cab, and on the skirt there are some lighter patches over the rails, and faded warning panels.

 

5551747196_010b0429ce_z.jpg077 by GB56134, on Flickr

 

 

With this in mind, the first job was to fade the red warning panels. I used the white weathering powder, gently brushing on with vertical steaks where possible, but came out too pink, so I brushed some of the Rust weathering powder over the top, which gave it a nice orange tinge. Unfortunately its not as fades as I had hoped, but least its not harsh and in your face.

 

27420145652_88195421e1_c.jpg

27421118822_d10e3ebaa2_c.jpg

 

 

Next I sprayed the frame dirt around the bogies, fuel tank and front skirt. Across the loco front, and also the body side and cab doors got a more gentle wafting. The front skirt above the rails were dry brushed with Phoenix Precision P977 Rusty Rails, to give a different tone in that area.

 

The roof was sprayed with Weathered Black with a few drops of Metalcote mixed in, again spraying from all different angles, as a tiny bit of orange will stick out a mile. This was also wafted down over the cab fronts, and streaked down the bodysides.

 

The inner edges of the bogies were sprayed with Roof Dirt and a few drops of Metalcote mixed in, along with the fuel tank and buffer heads. The fuel tank was heavily streaked in the AK Fuel Stains.

 

27447458561_d39229880a_z.jpg

 

 

Finally the underframes of both locos were dusted with the Dark Earth weathering powder, and the exhausts had a dusting of the Smoke powder to create some more tones. Both locos were sealed with Testors Dullcote Spray (with the exception of the 071 fuel tanks).

 

 

I hope that all makes sense, I can waffle a bit, but if anyone needs more photos/ explaining just let me know,

 

Cheers

 

Daryl

Posted

Daryl,, that's one very, very serious piece of weathering, hats off to you sir, if you could do a video of your expertise it would be mega, very well done, particularely liked the 071, btb

Posted

Thank you all for the comments, much appreciated! About the video, next time I weather something I might film it, not keen on the idea though as I hate the sound of my voice :( but will take better step by step photos :tumbsup:

 

Cheers

 

Daryl

Posted (edited)

3188TLA.jpg

 

Above is a picture of the real 3188 at the Inchicore Works open day in June 1996 you have certainly captured the wrap around paint on the ends and the B5 bogies look the business , where did you get the extended buffers from?

Edited by flange lubricator
Posted

Thanks for sharing that photo of 3188. One thing I do find odd if the white stripe at the top doesn't match the cravens. The buffers ar Comet Models C42 BR extended buffers x12.

 

Thanks again,

 

Daryl

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All,

 

Some progress on the Brake/Ballast van. I was planning to convert a BR 'Shark', and bought a Cambrian kit at a model show. Unfortunately they are very different, with major surgery required to get it right, so I've planned to scratch build the body. After looking for suitable donor vans, bearing in mind I would only use the chassis and roof, an LMS 20t brake van would be spot on.

 

27425875873_43d2ab4d14_c.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, I managed to get an LNER brake van (at £4 at a show, I couldn't say no), which is a tad too short. The model was took to bits, and the chassis stripped of pretty much everything. Fortunately there isn't much underneath, I have the ploughs from the Cambrian kit, and plan to get the J hangers/ leaf springs from MJT. This is when I found out the van was to short, so I've lengthened it.

 

28040002695_9ebe955d6a_c.jpg

 

 

I did start making the sides, but the pillars kept snapping/ bending, unttil a mate suggested chopping the end of the van off, turning it around and making the veranda from the 'inside' of the van. I can only stress the good saying 'measure twice, cut once'. I didnt, and cut the veranda side too low, so one side has some plasticard strip to bulk it up.

 

27425888884_73ca2fcd73_c.jpg

 

 

The pillars on the veranda are 1x1mm plasticard strip, and the inner concave part of the roof has a plasticard insert, filled and sanded smooth.

 

27425862133_533738021f_c.jpg

 

 

On the inner end of the door/ veranda, the underside was filed down to accept a 1mm thick floor. The sides will go on the side of the floor. I didn't do my sums right and cu the side 1mm too short, so out comes the plasticard strip again!

 

27962140471_0e21a72a61_c.jpg

 

 

The rough side offered up in place. The large cutouts are for the windows, the two one rear half will be made up from 1x1mm plasticard strip literally before everything goes together. I plan on adding the mesh over the holes (if anyone knows where to get it from, please let me know! ;)), and then plop a clear plastic 'window' and secure it carefully to the mesh.

 

27962140851_d882633ebd_c.jpg

 

 

Cheers

 

Daryl

Posted

Nice work so far. Sometimes it's just as quick to make all the body from plasticard than trying to

chop up a good wagon that is only half right to start with.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi All,

 

The ballast plough is making slow progress, but getting there. It's about 80% there build wise, requiring some leaf springs and axle boxes, duckets, a roof and small details.

 

28014594374_04a683d137_c.jpg

 

28552810991_74ab46f651_c.jpg

 

28552809831_2a58d7aab8_c.jpg

 

 

I'm currently drawing up duckets to 3D print, as the thought of making (upto) 4 duckets all identical put me off! I will attempt to add the ducket windows into the CAD drawing, but with meshing going over the windows, I might not bother.

 

28564390470_44ded80e2e_b.jpg

 

 

The plough posing on the layout, the coupling hooks are MJT 2953, and need to source some brake pipes as well. The plough is from a Cambrian Shark kit.

 

28347215070_d03e150983_c.jpg

 

28598968336_b0237e52c7_c.jpg

 

 

Cheers

 

Daryl

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thank you all for the replies :), Glenderg, many thanks for the ducket diagram, I had a go but couldn't get on with it, but it was very helpful for the CAD model, and this has been tweaked and windows added.

 

29123445521_a1c493df44_c.jpg

 

 

28581498843_4af48c484b_z.jpg

 

 

I've just sent those off for 3D printing, and also a generator set for the GSV. This Diesel Generator Industrail Z Scale is designed to go on the back of an Z scale flatbed wagon, but a quick measure up and it shouldn't look to bad in the GSV.

 

Back on to the ballast plough, I've started on van No.2, this time taking a different approach, butchering up a Dapol brakevan kit (C038).

 

29104262066_664bfb154b_z.jpg

 

 

Again, it wont be perfect, but the underframe looks a bit Irish, and until I can get hold of some MJT parts (that are currently out of stock) or from anywhere else, these will have to do. First job was to remove the square axle box,

 

29104260606_b32ce47738_z.jpg

 

 

And replace with a modern roller bearing. These were made up from 2.4mm rod with a thin plasticard triangle over the end. There was also a fillet of plasticard added between the spring and the bearing.

 

28518467913_6e8a081bf4_z.jpg

 

 

I also beefed up the disks below the J hanger, with some 2.4mm rod with a chunk cut out, and slipped over the hanger. The right hand one has been modified.

 

28518479923_5b05dfde79_z.jpg

 

 

The underframe was shortened and made up/ guessed from the (poor) instructions, and was looking good until they were offed up to the doorway/ veranda made up earlier, and the frames were too narrow.

 

28515210444_edcdcbc039_z.jpg

 

 

Fortunately the glue had not quite set, so the sides were prised way, which left the frame and the buffer beams. The buffer beams had the buffer back plates removed, along with the protruding pips.

 

29167244696_627a2f5f42_z.jpg

 

 

The bufferbeams were attached to the floor of the veranda, and the sideframes added on. This now gave me the problem of the wheelsets kept falling out! Romford bearing were added to narrow the gap down, and these were fettled and tested on a short bit of tarck until everything was

snug. Unfortunatly I fogot to take photos of this but but for reference here is the bearings,

 

29201658585_0bcd5ea7ae_z.jpg

 

 

Bodysides were made up in the same fashion as the previous van, appologies for the poor photos, these were quickly taken on the layout,

 

28578929164_d2e8db678a_z.jpg

 

29122864451_eec5aa696f_z.jpg

 

 

Cheers

 

Daryl

Posted

Thanks Popeye :tumbsup:

 

I've had a parcel from Shapeways with the 3D printed goodies inside :) First up the genny set for the GSV. While not perfect, it will be a massive improvement over the mashed together bits that were inside! My photos do not do the model any justice, photographing something all white/ transparent ain't easy!

 

29307855646_b6f6b3872d_c.jpg

 

29054171670_5e03a758b5_c.jpg

 

 

And testing for size...

 

29054168500_26fd6ca2cf_c.jpg

 

28720385393_fedf411d8b_c.jpg

 

 

Next up is the duckets,

 

28720406543_ef68c2185f_c.jpg

 

29233435302_7dfd925b59_c.jpg

 

28718198934_419e525aa1_c.jpg

 

 

Looking at prototype photos, I've made the windows on the van slightly too big, so they will have to be narrowed with plasticard strip.

 

That's all for now,

 

Daryl

  • 3 weeks later...

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