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Glenderg

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Yeah Thump, you blob on a rice shaped bit, and use a wet brush to push it into the corners, really heavy and crude. When it dries in a few minutes, run the wet brush over it again and take the heavier stuff off. Keep repeating as much as you need, and if it goes wrong, wash the model and start again! R

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Fantastic Richie, I will have to invest in one of these kit's. They really look fantastic when finished, and the design of the kit allows less experienced modellers to have a go. If you get a chance take some pics in natural day light you'll even confuse some people as to whether it is real or not. Gouache is a great medium for creating those weather worn and rusty looks. Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, Burnt Umber, and Orange Lake Deep are great colors for those effects. Well done Sir.

 

Rich,

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Cheers lads, I'll get some natural daylight photos when I can. The gouache has really brought some "plain jane" models to life, even sheep dipped (as JHB would say) in a charcoal grey bath. The kit is a doozy to put together if you take your time with the instructions, and I'm looking forward to doing another one in the grey 20 ton variant, with longer duckets and the rivetted end panels.

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Yeah Thump, you blob on a rice shaped bit, and use a wet brush to push it into the corners, really heavy and crude. When it dries in a few minutes, run the wet brush over it again and take the heavier stuff off. Keep repeating as much as you need, and if it goes wrong, wash the model and start again! R

 

Thanks, Glenderg.

 

I usually use Games Workshop washes which give the same effect, but they are getting bloody expensive so I was looking for a less expensive alternative!

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I have the GW stuff too, and it's dafty expensive, not to mention the powerful stink off it. Those little tubes are €2.75 each, and you'd get enough out of a tube to "wash" Bosko's entire stock and still have leftovers!:P

 

You'd need a crate of it to get through Wrenn's collection so!!!!

Edited by Riversuir226
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Yeah Thump, you blob on a rice shaped bit, and use a wet brush to push it into the corners, really heavy and crude. When it dries in a few minutes, run the wet brush over it again and take the heavier stuff off. Keep repeating as much as you need, and if it goes wrong, wash the model and start again! R

 

Superb build and weathering Glenderg,an excellent finish has been achieved.Most weathering technique's I have tried in the past have generally failed,but thidthen seems like a fail safe solution,must look into trying this stuff.

Also,would be interested in hearing how you are going to tackle the 20 ton van from the SSM kit,as I have been looking at different avenue's to doing one of these van but never thought of using another 30 ton van as a solution.

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Guest hidden-agenda

For 30.00 euro you cant go wrong its an excellent starter kit and no railway should be with out one or two plus if you cant solder you can glue it.

Nice end result G.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest hidden-agenda
Thanks for the kind words on Garfields Signal Box. One thing that wasn't mentioned was that it completely comes apart so Garf can get a custom interior into it, or lighting. Getting it all to work was a bit on the tricky side and the red still spooks me.

 

I got the SSM Brake Van Kit from Des some time ago, and had a few hours over the weekend so I thought I'd put it together. This is my first brass kit so I thought I'd show how straightforward it is.

 

First off, I bent the etch. Good start.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6845[/ATTACH]

Then I numbered the parts with a CD pen so I wouldn't have to flick the instructions sheet constantly!

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I assembled the basic parts really quickly and mixes a batch of burnt umber, cadmium red acrylic, some white and black ink. There might even be a blob of yellow under all that.

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Base colour on, and a dusting of pencil dust on the veranda pieces. These would be impossible to weather when in.

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Using watercolour gouache paint, I made up a wash and liberally let it run into the grooves.

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It starts to pick out the detail nicely.

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Once happy with the wash, a quick spray of matt varnish to fix the colour.

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Splotches of more gouache, and washed down again.

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Filthy. Yum.

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The roof was formed with styrene, and held in place with dressmakers pegs.

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Two sheets of light styrene, finished with acetate - the type used for overhead projectors. I used this for the finish because it bends on the axis you need and is better than styrene which bends everywhere. It gives a uniform curve to the roof. I didn't prime the roof because I wanted the white to do some work..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6855[/ATTACH]

Random! Two more vans underway with the same technique.

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The finished item with sun blushed rusty roof.

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When it'll make it's inaugural trip across Ballyvoyle Viaduct is unknown, but that's what this is all building up to..!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6858[/ATTACH]

G'Luck

Richie.

 

As requested by Glenderg and Warbonnet some constructive criticism and tips to improve the SSM 30 ton brake van kit build.

1 The roof is a little difficult to get a good result with if using the plastic supplied with the kit. Try some 0.75mm plastic and curve it over a vac cleaner tube and gently heat with a hair dryer to get the correct profile. Also try gluing some evergreen strips inside the brass so you have something substantial to bond the roof to and especially above the curved veranda as you can curve the evergreen between your fingers and get a nice curved profile.

2 The chimney is way over scale try some evergreen eg222.

3 The rain strips along the roof should run along the edge and some in pics i have seen had shorter strips at each end. try some evergreen eg110.

4 There are two roof vents one above each end of the guard area.

5 The lamps should have the holes facing left and right not up and down.

6 The lamps are positioned dead centre in between the ducket and veranda entry ( or above the ducket in some pics).

7 The duckets are showing spaces between the joints. Some solder and a rub down with 1200 grade sand paper would have tidied this up.

8 The corner closest the camera in the above pic has split open. Try running some solder down it when constructing the body initially and this wont happen.

9 The steps are missing on one side of your model.I dont use the brass mounts supplied try replacing with some evergreen making your own brackets as the brass is a devil to stick to the dapol chassis.

10 The hand rails would be better replaced and look more realistic replaced with some 0.03mm hand rail wire.

11 The dapol chassis would look better if most of the unusable stuff in the centre was removed as it relates to the twin silo wagon build.

12 I noticed you did,nt mention coating the brass with etch primer.I hope your paint stays on.

 

I hope you find my criticism constructive and advice helpful.

Regards Gareth.

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Just finished sorting out everything from the Stillorgan show yesterday and have just logged on

Thankfully there have been no replies to your post Garreth as I think you have missed the point

This is a kit build and will only be as good as the person who builds it

There is nothing constructive about your criticism's

If its good enough for the builder who are we to argue?

You did raise some good points about the hand rails and stripping down the chassis which I think would improve the build

It is however a private build, its not being sold as 'the best break van in the world ever'

The criticism of the lamps is criticism for the sake of criticism, a mistake by the builder which can be easily fixed

If I had the skill to build a similar one the forum would be sick of my pictures of it at this stage

but as I failed Kit building for fools I am in awe of anyone who can create something like that

So onwards and upwards troops and start posting loads more pics, I am sure there are many more skilled builders out there

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  • 1 month later...

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